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Hi, many of my Sarracenia already produced some nice pitchers. Here is one of my (at the moment) favorite S. flava var. rugelli. The plant in the picture is F18 from Mike King. Some of my wintergrowing Drosera are still active, amongst them some forms of D. trinveria. Here is a picture of the flowers of a form from Bain's Kloof. Also, the first Utricularia are starting to flower. The following picture shows the yellow flowered form of Utricularia livida from Zambia I am only growing this plant for some months, so i was especially happy to see a flower. Btw, that's about the smalles utricularia flower i have see in my collection And finally, a flower of U. asplundii. Since having seen Geissorhiza radians and monanthos in South Africa i got an interest in that genus as well. At the moment i am growing six forms of them. Geissorhiza darlingensis is the first one, that ever flowered for me. In nature it grows together with the red form of Drosera cistiflora close to the town of Darling, north of Cape Town. Christian

This section is intended to provide a home for the increasing interest and threads in relation to sustainable and peat-free cultivation of carnivorous plants, to enable members to feed in and get out the information they need and to share their experiences in one place. Objectives · Enable carnivorous plant growers who want to use no or less peat, to do so without detriment to the plants they grow. · Contribute to sustainable growing media stewardship and the protection of peat bogs. Primary ambitions: · Better information on sustainable and peat-free growing materials · Qualify the merits of those materials, their availability, reliability and security of supply. · Differentiate between products and sources. · Provide information on how best to use sustainable and peat-free ingredients From 2014 the Carnivorous Plant Society is beginning a trials programme (18ft x 14ft polytunnel, supplied through the Society’s conservation fund - £497 donation). They will be testing a variety of sustainable and peat-free ingredients on the market and comparing them, through a series of pot trials, against traditional methods of peat cultivation. This information will be openly shared. Example mixtures include: Control Peat: 2 parts Sphagnum peat : 1 part perlite Comparisons Peat-free mix: 2 parts coir : 1 part perlite ‘Sustainable’ mix: 1 part coir : 1 part river peat : 1 part perlite Reduced peat: 1 part coir : 1 part extracted peat : 1 part perlite They will also look at the quality of some ingredients, for instance between ‘organic’ coir and ‘washed’ coir. The Society will also be engaging with the market place re primary ambitions mentioned above.

Here's a quick pic of my Cephalotus "Big Boy". The largest pitchers are ~5cm:

For some time now I have been struggling for room in my greenhouses so I took stock of the space I could make available and decided to purchase a small 6ft x 4ft ( 1.8m x 1.2m) polycarbonate greenhouse. This is intended to house my Darlingtonia and the odd Bryophyte and /or Orchid. One tree had to be felled and my reacquaintance with laying paving slabs and brickwork was required. The result is quite good, the structure being reassuringly solid. Ventilation is via the standard roof vent plus I replaced the bottom polycarbonate sheet in the door with wire mesh ( half the door). For a small greenhouse the staged growing area is quite good. I made staging to cover 20sq ft giving myself an adequate 2ft x 2ft area to stand in. I can stand on both feet at the same time at last. Here's how the plants look at present. I'm looking forward to flowering, some are visible in the photos and many more are to follow.

hi everybody.... yesterday i took a little travel near home in santa catarina state, southern brazil. who whant to take a look, please click below... http://www.plantascarnivorasbr.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=15264 so long...

Hi all. I'm from Warsaw, Poland and I've recently joined this forum. I'm cultivating CPs for around 5 years, but only for 3 with success ;) as first 2 years were only shameful losses. My favorite plants are VFs, Sarracenias, Nepenthes and Heliamphoras and I'm focusing on cultivating those. I've started from simple plants like VFs and Sarracenias, but I'm trying to develop my hobby and recently adapted an old fish tank into a terra for plants, to check how it's going to look like and how plants will grow. As everything goes very well, soon, as a next step, I'm planning to build a more professional and much better looking terrarium for Nepenthes and Heliamphoras. I hope we'll have a possibility to exchange some experiences :)

Hi Shoggoths Well in my Ping wall usually have two sections the lower where the water tend to flow is more wet like the upper seccion where is more dry (this is the same as Fernando's Ping wall), for the plants who need more dry side I put this in the upper secction like P.rotundiflora, P.esseriana, P.agnata, but in the lower section I put more wet plants like P.primuliflora, P.emarginata and some utric sandersonii, when you need to give a rest period to your Pings only you need to water less the entire wall, but at least for know the wall became very dry very quickly about every two or three days I need to wet again the entire wall so the plants who require more dry side is not a problem they produce very well the winter bulb, my Pings who I grow in pots tent to rot very quickly if I put more water and usually I water every 10 -15 days in the rest perior but in the Ping Wall this is not a problem vecause the wall became dry very quickly, and for now I lost only two plants by brown heart desease. Thanks to remind me to post new pictures of my Ping wall. Update This is a picture of May2013 Ping Wall start por Pinguicula_RR, en Flickr This is in September 2013 Ping wall 3 por Pinguicula_RR, en Flickr And these two other are from a few days. Ping Wall 1 por Pinguicula_RR, en Flickr Ping Wall 2 por Pinguicula_RR, en Flickr The plants I have there are: P. moctezumae (about a 20 plants), P.primuliflora, P.esseriana, P.rotundiflora, P.zecheri, P.gigantea, P.emarginata, P.moranensis,P.jaumavensis x moctezumae, P.ibarrae x moranensis, P.agnata x moctezumae, P agnata, U.sandersonii, Two orchids in the upper side and one bromeliad Best Regards RR

Following photos Heliamphora tatei var. tatei {Cerro Maharuaka} un petit Heliamphora nutans "giant": Utricularia blanchetii "pink flower" Dionaea "black Pearl " dionaea yellow Dionaea "Atlanta" dionaea "triton" Dionaea "005" Dionaea "Schuppenstiel 2" dionaea whale: Pinguicula gigantea f.alba x moctezumae pinguicula grandiflora: After a small Drosophyllum seed:: small zoom drosera filifomis: and finally some catches http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/309693P4190001.jpg http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/942970P4200067.jpg http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/114266P4200052.jpg http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/374511P4200043.jpg http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/270640P4200037.jpg http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/287913P4200010.jpg http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/915888P4200017.jpg

Hi everybody ! Some photo today for the lovers of Utricularia Utricularia Uniflora Utricularia Welwitschii A field of Utricularia Bisquamata

Hi everyone, the spring has come into the greenhouse and its also the time for some other plants to show their best... here they are. Hope you will like them :-) Adam First, the greenhouse. Roridula gorgonias flowering nicely: Drosophyllum is also going to flower soon: Drosera ramentacea grows really good: And my ceph is getting some really nice colours: My new basement terrarium, much larger than any previous version: Heliamphora huberi flowers: D. spec. Cerro Duida (cf yutajensis), one of my favourites: Utricularia cv. Jitka: And U. campbelliana "Mount Roraima":

Just a quick photo of my windowsill P. moctezumae, which is flowering like crazy in these days. Sorry for the bad quality, but this species is amazing :-)

Well it survived the whole winter outside with the elements, It looks healthy and has new growth points spurting up out of the moss but it was one of the mildest winter's I have experienced since growing CP's so maybe not much of a test this time I will leave it out again all year and see how it does. IMG_20140427_193600648 by Da Insect-eater, on Flickr IMG_20140427_193605728 by Da Insect-eater, on Flickr IMG_20140427_193610314 by Da Insect-eater, on Flickr I also opted to leave the door open all winter in my small Greenhouse which houses most of my cephs, as I usually loose one or two due to bad ventillation over winter, and I didn't loose a plant in there this year. But again is was a mild winter so I cannot really compare it or make any assumptions yet. IMG_20140427_193705308 by Da Insect-eater, on Flickr

truly exceptional !! beautiful time laps !! ;)

superb ,keep up the good work

Lovely plant blocky!! Can't wait to see the progress

Hello Mobile, Yes indeed Coir does contain humic acids in the form of Tannins. Tannins gives the very brown tinge in the water when passed through Coir medium, the first time. I personally flush a pot of coir with boiling water 10 times and the water is clear when I do this. I'd love a more numerical experimental approach to Coir by testing the soil properties instead of trialing by carnivorous plants because this will eliminate "lurker" variables in your experiment that also effect the growth of the plant (which you are using to evaluate results) e.g such as: sun amount, pot type, climate/location, etc etc. A good design of experiment (DOE) will be the difference between results which are solid and conclusive or can be interpreted in different ways by other people. One numerical example (not completely DOE perfect): 1) Test TDS (total dissolved solids) of the boiling water flush from a pot of coir and graph it from 0 to 10 flush (or more). 2) Test pH cause I've heard coir isn't acidic enough but we need evidence. I've also heard that salt content is related to the location of the Coir Harvest e.g. Sri Lankian product is harvested more inland and hence is not exposed to sea salt where as Indian product is, but don't know if it's a valid claim.

Hi guys. None of us like potting those little scrappy VFT's after dividing all those lovely juicy splits. Here's what to do if you have slave labour to hand. No prior training. Two demonstrations. One instructed attempt and then told him to get on with it. Later his 5 yr old sister got wind someone was having fun and joined in and between them they potted just over 100 G6 VFT.