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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/15/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    This is my new leucophylla clone, it was a cross with s.leucophylla giant altha fl x leucophylla deer park It grows up to 80cm high and and the lid looks a bit like heliamphora. The pitcher mouth is about 6cm wide. The pitchers are very strong and stable.
  2. 2 points
    I've our Treasurer Phil Wilson to thank for the improved speed. I wasn't getting anywhere with the hosting company regarding the speed issue so he went in heavy on them and they moved the thing to a faster server at no extra cost. It pays to be a grumpy fella in charge of the purse strings!
  3. 2 points
    Thanks, I will present pictures of my plants, but unfortunately much more rarely than before Nepenthes ampullaria
  4. 1 point
    I don't have as many orchids as I used to, but I plan to hang on to this one for as long as possible!
  5. 1 point
    Depends how big the greenhouse is but for largish one you could consider a heat pump (air conditioner). Very efficient and very reliable (with the possibility of controlling from the internet. Before that i used two 10£ heaters with biogreen thermostats, two are far more reliable than one (even 1 expensive one). Forget kerosine, not reliable and expensive. LPG heaters are used by some, not cheap and you need ventilation... Some run the central heating system down to the greenhouse, cheap to run but not really allowed by building regs.
  6. 1 point
    There's only 2 verified giant leucophylla clones in cultivation that I'm aware of (edit: Bristol just showed me a third, presumably from Franklin Co, FL? I wouldn't be surprised if there are a few more): the real deal Drummond's giant clone and this giant clone from Washington Co, AL! In fact, giant leucophyllas are just as rare in nature as they are in cultivation: I've only personally witnessed 2 giants in the wild, and in case you think I'm full of you know what, here's some proof: 1) Okaloosa Co, FL: 2) Baldwin Co, AL: Much like S. flava, so far, there seems to be 2 different types of giant leucophyllas: genetic giants and hybrid vigor giants. A genetic giant grows very slowly, but over time produces an enormous rhizome that supports enormous sized traps. These tend to display giant traps in alternate years, since it's very costly to the plant to produce such massive pitchers. Hybrid vigor giants, on the other hand, grow fast all the time and tend to produce giant traps year after year. I suspect both plants I witnessed in the wild are genetic giants, considering I couldn't ever find them again! (keep reading, this logic will make more sense) Drummond's giant ( a verified giant leucophylla clone in cultivation) is a genetic giant: it's slow as a snail, doesn't produce anything spectacular most years, but once that plant gets enough storage and momentum, it can shoot out enormous fall traps! You could walk by this giant plant year after year and never realize it was giant unless you happened to catch it at its best! As an aside, it wouldn't be surprising if you could baby the plant and get it to produce giant traps every year or every other year. Anyways, Drummond's giant seems to only be impressive once it produces giant traps: it doesn't seem to produce really fat traps on relatively small rhizomes. On the completely opposite end of the spectrum is this Washington Co, AL giant, which appears to be the result of hybrid vigor. Even relatively small rhizomes can produce wide, FAT traps that are unusual for S. leucophylla. In fact, out of the literally thousands of clones of S. leucophylla that I have in my collection, this washington Co, AL giant is the only one currently producing giant late summer traps! What do I consider a giant leucophylla? A plant that isn't just tall, but also has abnormally extreme girth. Here's S. leucophylla 'GIANT' Washington Co, AL, which is unquestionably gigantic! Just put your hands out as shown below to get an idea of how big this trap is. Photos taken 9/16/18:
  7. 1 point
    I'm currently growing most of my Nepenthes on a windowsill setup. This includes both species and hybrids. Species: singalana, platychila, truncata, robcantleyi, ovata, ventricosa, naga, campanulata (has flowered this year), sibuyanensis (has flowered this year), ramispina, gymnaphora, veitchii. Also a number of seedlings/plantlets of fusca, peltata, nigra and some others which have acclimatized to the windowsill environment and are now kicking off. Hybrids: lowii x ventricosa, lowii x truncata, robmata, trusmadiensis x burbidgeae, burbidgeae x edwardsiana (the new horticultural one), rebecca soper (flowered a few years back), bloody mary, miranda, truncata x inermis, aristo x ventricosa, veitchii x hurreliana. I'm forgetting some but you get the idea ;) They might be growing slower compared to plants growing in a greenhouse and they probably don't keep their pitchers as long, but they are doing well for me so far. They are grown in a south facing large window. In the warmest part of summer I put a white sheet over them to pretect them from the hottest temperatures but this is something I've only started doing recently as the last two summers were really hot.
  8. 1 point
    Who said she was not stable? I have not managed to reproduce but I do not despair. Many people died but they had a name, Herr Crocodile
  9. 1 point
    Hello, I tried also some nepenthes on windowsill. Some hybrids: izumiae x truncata, maxima x xtrusmadiensis and some pure ones: truncata, ventricosa. All the plants were growing very nice during the summer and during the winter it was even better becasue of lower temperature. I think the plants were more sensitive on light and temperature than the humidity. It took some time for aclimatization, but finally the light and temprerature was the key issue. Can you please share, how is your hamata doing?
  10. 1 point
    Some new photo. N. eymae (maybe maxima) N. vogelii N. platychila N. clipeata N. x hookeriana N. albomarginata N. ampullaria red willams x harlequin N. x Viking N. deaniana N. veitchii
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Hey guys, here are a few photos of my Cephalotus after repotting a few months ago. Cephalotus f. Big Boy Cephalotus Big Boy by Tobias S., auf Flickr Cephalotus Big Boy by Tobias S., auf Flickr Cephalotus Big Boy by Tobias S., auf Flickr Cephalotus f. Dudley Watts Cephalotus Dudley Watts by Tobias S., auf Flickr Cephalotus Dudley Watts by Tobias S., auf Flickr Cephalotus Dudley Watts by Tobias S., auf Flickr I hope you like them. Regards Tobias
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    A further coal mine beach. Love it so.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Fascinating, thanks for an excellent video and commentary. I'm sure I could smell the decomposing mice!! Guy
  17. 1 point
    Very very interesting!!! Excellent reportage!! Thanks a lot!! Now I know the power of the biggest nepenthes pitchers... It is really amazing!!!
  18. 1 point
    Nepenthes mindanaoensis (Philippines) From seeds Nepenthes jamban (Sumatra) Nepenthes robcantleyi Nepenthes spectabilis (Gunung Sibuatan, Sumatra) Nepenthes bicalcarata Giant Red (Sarawak, Borneo) Nepenthes burbidgeae x platychila
  19. 1 point
    Hi, I'd leave the plants on the window. The photoperiod will be reduced naturally as days get shorter in the autumn. The plants will still be photosynthesising to some extend so will need light. My VFTs are growing new leaves even in winter and they're outside in a cold frame (even the Beast from the East didn't stop them). Also, windowsills are generally the coldest part of the room (if the heating is turned off). You really need to maintain the temperature below 10 C (preferably around 2-5 C) for the plants to have proper dormancy and reasonable humidity (that shouldn't be a problem if there's no heating and the window's opened). Ventilation is also important to prevent fungus problems. All you have to do is reduce the watering, keep the plants damp but not waterlogged. As a rule, for outdoor plants dormancy should start around Halloween and last till Valentine's Day (or longer depending on weather; dormancy shorter than 3 months will not be enough). If you're hand feeding your plants, stop by the end of September. I would also suggest you look up plants that don't need a dormancy. There are lots of CPs that can be grown indoors all year round, some may need a terrarium/artificial lights but not all. They may be more suitable for your growing conditions, unfortunately temperate plants don't do very well in flats in the long term.
  20. 1 point
    Definitely a “plant of the month” winner, hands down.
  21. 1 point
    Hi Manders, They are Dendrobates auratus (highland bronze). I keep them in a terrarium together with some of my highland Nepenthes. It seemed like an ideal way to combine hobbies :) Do you have some pictures of your frogs? Here is the father of the eggs sitting on a young eddy And the mother on her favourite bromeliad They don't mind the pitcher plants (or the cold at night). Only interaction I've seen so far is that they steal the occasional prey out of shallow pitchers (like jamban). I've got two more egg clutches developing right now and the first tadpole of those hatched yesterday. I am wondering if the tadpoles would survive in the pitchers but don't want to take the risk of killing them by throwing them in. What are you feeding your tadpoles?
  22. 1 point
    Thanks, exactly I feel this way In answer to your question- Yes, of course One of my terrariums with Nepenthes. Only very easy hybrids. Nepenthes Bloody Mary Nepenthes Hookeriana Nepenthes Rebecca Soper Nepenthes Ventrata and Nepenthes Linda
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    It would appear that this plant has long roots. It's also not averse to having them sitting in water. That's a 3½" square long tom ( 5" deep) skillfully displayed by MrsG.
  25. 1 point
    In my opinion, you were told wrong. Although Venus Flytraps can be grown in pure sphagnum peat moss in certain climates, conditions and under certain care regimens, it can be problematic. The medium in your plants' pots is too dense and too wet. Pure sphagnum peat moss tends to hold too much water for too long, not drying out fast enough, especially in humid climates, and sphagnum peat moss will compact over time and can cause anaerobic conditions in the soil when it's wet that can easily promote destructive bacterial and fungal rot. Adding sand or perlite (or other inert, insoluble material such as plastic foam pellets) to the growing medium displaces some of the sphagnum, allowing the medium to dry more quickly; adding that other material to the spagnum also introduces air into the medium, helping to avoid destructive anaerobic conditions. The surface of the medium, if too wet for too long, can host growths of mold that can attack one of the Venus Flytrap's most vulnerable areas, the growing point in the center of the rosette from which very tender new young leaves sprout. Keeping this growing crown dry while watering the surrounding soil helps, as does allowing the surface of the soil to become fairly dry. Pure sphagnum peat however tends to wick water all the way to the top, sometimes making it hard to allow the surface to be dry while allewing sufficient water to the root zone below the rhizome. Growing Venus Flytraps with too much water but not enough light and air movement can exascerbate the problems with fungal or bacterial infection. In cases of too much water and too little light, the leaves can grow thin, weak and spindly, more susceptible to infection. I don't know whether it would be helpful, but there is a section on growing medium (soil) and problems, including fungal and bacterial problems, at VenusFlytrap.info-- http://www.venusflyt...traps_soil.html http://www.venusflyt...d-problems.html