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  1. 3 points
    Hi at all, every year this plant amazes me more and more, in this session the pitchers are becoming white, the green veins are disappearing and some picthers have a pink brushed on the edge of the hat: Ch Natale
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    Hi guys... Below you can find 03 stamps that i've not insert here on this site... Serbia 2017 - Aldovandra - Malaysia 2018 - Nepenthes - Malaysia 2018 - Nepenthes X trusmadiensis -
  4. 1 point
    While hiking in kogelberg nature reserve I was startled by a huge drosera capensis, I’ve seen thousands of capensis at many different locations around the western cape but this was by far the largest. Has anyone seen or heard of a plant bigger? The traps measured 10.5 centimeters or 4.1 inches.
  5. 1 point
    When my capensis alba arrived in the post it was a sorry state. Dry Browning leaves and no dew. I had to put the soil back in the pot. I put it on the south facing window and kept it standing in water. After 6 weeks it was covered in dew and started throwing up flower stalks. So far 4 flower stalks. Its a good idea never to give up on these plants it seems
  6. 1 point
    Just a thought. Try putting the plant and pot in a plastic bag to keep the humidity high for a couple of weeks or so and make sure it stands in about a half inch of rainwater at all times. However, remove the bag before 2 weeks are up if you see any sign of mould developing inside. D. capensis will naturally die back in the winter especially when cold, so has yours been exposed to cold conditions after repotting? Do not give up on it even if it loses all its leaves as after a winter cold spell, it will usually regrow from the base of the the plant or the roots so long as it has not been kept over wet while it has effectively been hibernating. Kind regards, Rob
  7. 1 point
    It doesn't sound like you are doing anything wrong. What kind of soil is the carnivorous plant mix? Make sure it doesn't have any added nutrients or isn't contaminated with salts. You could also check for pests.
  8. 1 point
    When you have a pot with plantas that look unhealty, the best thing to do is repotting it to a new soil, in this case the soil i had this Cephalotus was very deteriorated and compact. So i transplated them to a new and bigger pot and more aerated that the previous one to avoid root roting. First i put some volcanic rocks in the bottom In second, i filled the pot with this mixture: peat moss: perlite: silica sand (1:2:2) Photo of one of the clumps, look at the rizomes and roots! From this division i took 10 individual plants! To finish, i put a layer of silica sand to avoid some algae and mosses I let the pot in a spot with indirect sunlight and with a zip lock bag to up the relative humidity to 100% and with this reducing the post-transplant stress. If all goes ok and with this rain week and decreasing temperatures we here in Portugal are experiencing, after one week i will take the bag off and put the pot in is definitive spot. After 2 months i will update their growth.
  9. 1 point
    You can collect them once they turn black, or you can allow them to split open themselves but you’ll find Capensis growing in with absolutely everything. If you collect them you can either crumple the outer shell or tap them in some paper to collect the seed
  10. 1 point
    Nepenthes in Genting like 10 meters from a hotel.
  11. 1 point
    Surprise: The Queensland sundews have been screened for their naphthoquinones before (Culham & Gornall 1994) but the chemical diversity within the group has prompted our (Jan Schlauer, Irmgard and me) investigation of the new hybrid ("D. x Andomeda") and, subsequently, a re-evaluation of the published data and comparison of their micro-morphology. Our study found that D. adelae and D. schizandra are both in regard of their chemistry as well as their indumentum clearly closer related than to D. prolifera, which as the only one in the group possesses still remnants of snap-tentacles. Enjoy Chemistry and surface micromorphology of the Queensland sundews (Drosera section Prolifera) . September CPN 48/3: 111-116 (click on title). Photo shows the examined plants:
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Here I would describe my experience with p. gigantea. I’m not a great carnivorous plants grower, I’ve not a greenhouse or a terrarium, I only grow my plants for fan in poor conditions on my windowswill. This discussion is for stimulate people to grow this plant from seeds and carnivorous plants growers with more experience than me to write their considerations about this wonderful plant. I think that p. gigantea, a very popular carnivorous plant in cultivation, is not very known because there are always the same clones in culture, obtained from asexual reproduction. This plant is quite slow growing, so a very little growers grow it from seed. I bought my first plant from Triffid nurseries UK in March 2015. It was a great purple flower clone that You can see in photos 8 and 9. At that time I lived in the Southern part of Italy, so You can see the Etna’s volcanic dust on the pot and on the plant. I think this powder were very useful for my p. Gigantea growth. The next spring my plant flowers 3 times an I was able to self pollinate it 3 times. I had only this Mexican Pinguicula in flower, so there can’t be any hibrydization. The first times I‘ve sown all my seeds in peat and sand substrate and in pure river sand, but no one seed germinate. The third time, as I thought my seeds were steril, I ‘ve put them in a glass of pure distilled water, and they started to germinate in 4/5 days. As they germinated, I put them in peat, sand or volcanic lava with a spoon. You can see them in pictures 6 and 7, and a little bigger in picture 5, 3 and 4. About the mother plant I must say that it divided himself when it flowered. The plantlets (one for every flower stalk) grew from the point where the flower stalk had boarn.. but they boarn when the flowers were old, so never from the center of the plant. About seedlings, I must say that all had carnivorous glands on both side of the leaves... some of them, when they were very little, seems to have carnivorous glands only on the upper face of leaves, but when they grew a little, they have them on both side (I write it because I’ve red that a grower had some seedlings with no gland on the lower plant of leaves). In spring 2017 I bought from Heldros a beautiful p. gigantea alba (photo of today in picture 10. It is just waking up from dormancy) In summer 2017 I moved to north Italy and, very sadly, I’ve lost the mother plant (violet flower) and about 15 seedlings due to the trip and a storm that hit my plants. So I only saved p. Gigantea alba and two seedlings. The first one has long and narrow leaves. This winter I gave it to a friend. It was about 20 cm large. This January it made his first flower and my friend has shown me the photo. The flower was purple, very similar to his mother plant flore. When my friend will send me the photos, I’ll post them here. The second seedling is more compact, smaller, with “round” leaves in summer..the strange thing is that this plant has now divided without bloom yet (pictures 1 and 2). Now I see a very little white point that might be a forming flower. About my clone of pinguicula gigantea alba I can say that it has made 4 flowers (one will bloom in next weeks) from this January (2019). It has never divided yet. I subspect it is a sterile clone, because I never was able to pollinate it. It seems to me to have a very little pollen, so maybe I’ll try to pollinate it with my other Gigantea pollen when it will bloom. p.s.: I grow my p. Gigantea in a west facing windows when they never recive direct sunlight. temperatures: min 1 degree, max 30 degrees. I feed them with a lot of bugs and a little 20:20:20 fertilizer very diluited. Considerations: 1) in my growing conditions p. Gigantea grows form seeds to bloom size in 4-5 years 2) Pinguicula giganteas flowers only when it grows more than 15/17 cm in diameter 3) unless You can read a different experience, all my seedgrown plants have glands on both sides of leaves 4) probably there are also sterile clones in commerce 5) not all the clones have the same way to divide themselves 6) there is a lot of variability in seedgrown plants. Please, write here Your experiences and post here Your photos!
  14. 1 point
    Hello all My name is Mischa and I live in the Netherlands I like to collect nepenthes and i work at a carnivores nursery (Carniflora) I've got 103 species Hope you will enjoy my plants in the future Greetings Mischa
  15. 1 point
    Dionaea Traps Selectively Allow Small Animals to Escape. Our prey capture experiments show that Venus flytraps (Dionaea muscipula) selectively allow small animals to escape by a system of interlocking features that complement each other very efficiently. We documented ants of the species Lasius neglectus (length 3.5 mm) running continuously through open traps of Dionaea, established since more than 20 years outdoors in our garden. To achieve statistical relevant results, we did not only count, identify and measure captured prey. Other than in former publications, we counted also the escaped ants (15,000 after 28 days) to be able to calculate the risk for small ants visiting active traps. Surprisingly, their risk to get captured is 2.5 times lower (0.04%) than the risk of mortality by medical malpractice for a human in a German hospital (0.1%). None of the four single features of the interlocking "escape system" described here would alone be able to provide such an efficient sorting out of small animals. This film is based on the same named publication in Carnivorous Plant Newsletter (December CPN, Vol. 48/4 - On the release of this film in September 2019 in press): Dionaea Traps Selectively Allow Small Animals to Escape by Siegfried R. H. Hartmeyer, Irmgard Hartmeyer and Emeritus Prof. Stephen E. Williams.
  16. 1 point
    That's OK, but the open day finishes at 2.30pm (hence the football question), so you'll only have an hour or 2 there. If you're after some of Mike's sale plants I'd get there as early as possible!
  17. 1 point
    It won't work unless you plan on taking the plants out every winter, but then I don't think there'd be much of a point to the terrarium. Dionaea, Sarracenia and temperate sundews must hibernate during winter, which will be virtually impossible in a terrarium. There are plenty of species that like a constant temperature year-round, though. Nepenthes, Heliamphora, tropical Drosera, tropical Utricularia, Stylidium, ...
  18. 1 point
    Hey guys, So I currently have 2 aquariums on the go, one is a large cube which tbh is surplus and I'm considering moving the shrimp to the larger which would leave it free. Something I've always wanted to do was make a really nice indoor carnivorous terrarium. I have some pretty decent LED grow lights which would be around 18" above the soil and plan to have some nice sarracenia at the back, some VFTs mid and some Sundew at the front (or something). Now, I appreciate seasonally it's all wrong to do anything right now, but if I am to have these indoor anyway is there anything wrong with buying some plants now and setting this up skipping dormancy entirely or would I be better off waiting for spring?
  19. 1 point
    If I may, I think you should read some information about basics care for Nepenthes. Plants of this genus are tropical, and do not go dormant in winter in-situ. Good luck!
  20. 1 point
    Hi Rob, Thanks so much for explaining this, it is really helpful. I am planning to see Mike King's collection for the first time in October I was searching rare plants by the collection number, and sometimes getting conflicting results- that will explain why. Many thanks!