RobH

You need to try and keep the soil surface drier if possible. A layer of grit or gravel should do the trick. Even sand would help for the seedlings.

I don't know where you read the Venus Fly Trap needs 35C to grow as this is simply incorrect. A regular Venus Fly Trap (Dionaea) does not need 35C to grow, in fact this may even stress the plant if continued for too long. Many of us let them drop to 0C or just below 0C in winter in an unheated greenhouse and this low temperature rests them. During the growing season they may get up to 35C but that is not necessary as they will be perfectly happy in the 15 - 30C range. They also need humidity and they should be kept in about 1 - 2cm of rainwater at all times except when it is below about 5C. Check out any carnivorous plant nursery for detailed growing conditions for Dionaea muscipula. Kind regards, Rob

You shouldn't use normal horticultural compost since CPs do not want the nutrients contained in regular compost as this can be harmful to them. The compost you use should not contain any added nutrients but it certainly does not have to be peat. Bark chippings are a common ingredient together with perlite and coarse sand or horticultural grit to ensure good drainage and aeration. A common mix is Bark chips: Perlite: Grit in the ratio of 1 : 1 : 1 or 2 : 1 : 1 if preferred. Bark chippings should be around 0 - 5 mm and Grit 2 - 6 mm ideally. This mix is good for Sarracenias and Drosera but you may wish to add peat for Dionaeas and Pinguiculas. Also, you should only use rainwater to water your plants and keep them in water filled tray with the water around 2 cm deep. You can substitute peat for the bark chippings above but not sure how much longer peat will be available. Other people have tried coir in the mix with varying degrees of success. Most CP nurseries will suggest the compost mix to use for the plants they sell and, of course, sell you their CP compost as well! Kind regards, Rob

Whilst I agree RO removes a lot of beneficial minerals from water, which you will likely get from other sources such as food, it also removes a lot of impurities in the domestic water system. In really hard water, agricultural areas such as where I live currently, a water softener will only neutralise calcium carbonate to a degree - yes I have a water softener - and unfortunately replace it with a lot of sodium, but it will not remove pesticides and other impurities in the water system which an RO system will. An interesting article you post but I have to say the WHO is not an organization I am prepared to trust, especially after their recent problems with Covid-19, but this a not a subject to discuss in this thread. Kind regards, Rob

I think some clarification is required for making such a bold and unsubstantiated statement. Rob

Guy, try Stephen Morley "gardenofeden" on this forum for an answer. He has been growing peat free for 30 years I believe and should have a more definitive answer for you. Kind regards, Rob

I would suggest Phil is referring to LIVE sphagnum moss whereas the stuff you typically buy from Garden Centres is "dead" sphagnum moss. Having said that I doubt that "dead" sphagnum moss would do any harm. After all peat is primarily dead and compacted sphagnum moss along with other long dead bog plants. So my suggestion would be find somewhere selling live sphagnum and try that. I have seen people on this forum selling live moss and I am sure you can find it by doing a search. Kind regards, Rob

D. filiformis is a nice one or D. aliciae - both come in various forms. Or you could try a straightforward Venus Fly Trap. Google for pictures of Guy's and my suggestions to see what you like. Kind regards, Rob

Then is should be fine to use that. Better get storing it for a "non-rainy" period! Kind regards, Rob

Not sure what you mean by a "domestic water filter". A further explanation would be useful to know what sort it is. Quite a few people, including me, use a Reverse Osmosis unit as a "spare" in case of rain water shortage. You can also use them for producing "pure" drinking water. The water that comes out of my RO unit is <20 ppm as measured by my TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) Meter - you can buy them on Amazon - and I live in a hard water area. It is generally regarded as important to use water with <50 ppm TDS for carnivorous plants, so if your "domestic water filter" does that, then it should be OK. Kind regards, Rob

Here are some images of root aphids to help you possibly identify your problem together with various means for their control: Root Aphids Kind regards, Rob

Why not try Max on this forum if you are looking for Pings. He has quite a number for sale and I can vouch for the high quality of his plants. Kind regards, Rob

Awesome plant! Kind regards, Rob

Clearly your filiformis does not appreciate you moving house! Presumably there is something different about the new environment it does not like. One assumes you are using rainwater or distilled water. From the pictures the new leaves on the plant look healthy and I think removing the lid was a good idea to get more air inside the terrarium. I would suggest leaving the lid off to help reduce the incidence of mould through the air being too stagnant. The mould suggests the air needs more movement. I grow filiformis outside, but sheltered from the elements, and have no problems. With a bit of luck, I think you will find the plant grows out of its current problem as it becomes adapted to its new environment. Kind regards, Rob

Those are super pictures of some unusual Drosera. Any chance you could give us some idea of your cultivation techniques with them please? Kind regards, Rob

Thanks for your input Christian and I stand corrected. It definitely looks similar to the photo Drosera ultramafica x spatulata at the end of the link you posted in your answer to the Rosette Sundew Identification thread https://www.carnivorousplants.org/cp/taxonomy/Droseraspatulata. A fascinating read that article I have to say, thanks. Kind regards, Rob

Could it be a D. capensis or a capensis cross, perhaps capensis x aliciae? Just a guess! D. capensis pics and Drosera with White Flower Normally capensis has a pink flower - except the alba version which yours does not look like - so your white flower is a surprise. I am sure someone else will come up with a better suggestion. Kind regards, Rob

Annette - you can use BugClear Ultra, it is quite safe on the plants. Just dilute and spray according to the instructions on the pack. You could also try to pick the individual aphids off with a fine paintbrush and then transfer them to the sticky leaves. No chemicals and the plant gets fed! Kind regards, Rob

- May I suggest you ask whether the problem occurs with a web browser or with a mobile phone. I have no problems accessing the forum through a desktop PC and web browser - Chrome while I believe some people have reported the problem when using a mobile phone to access the forum Kind regards, Rob

Young seeds or seedlings are always more susceptible to impurities in the growing media than mature or adult plants. Seeds may not even germinate. Kind regards, Rob

Click on Harro's icon in his post above and send him a direct private message. Kind regards, Rob

Very nice pictures . Kind regards, Rob

Here are two sets of photos that may help identification: Drosera tokaiensis Drosera spatulata D. spatulata seems particularly variable with perhaps slightly narrower leaves while tokaiensis seems to have more rounder leaves probably from rotundifolia. Having looked at all the photos carefully, it would appear Darwiniana is probably correct with his tokaiensis suggestion. Kind regards, Rob

Just a suggestion. Could it be D. spatulata the spoon-leaved sundew? I am not an expert but those leaves do appear spoon shaped and it appears very similar to my D. spatulata. However, I do know that D. tokaiensis is D. (spatulata x rotundifolia) so there are very clear similarities between tokaiensis and spatulata. Kind regards, Rob

Now that is a really spectacular looking collection I guess you must grow those outdoors, perhaps protected from the rain, due to all the ties you have meticulously placed on all the plants. That is something I must try next year to protect my plants from the wind. Kind regards, Rob