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Everything posted by RobH

  1. The bags do say suitable for aquarium so it should be good for CPs. Make sure it is silica sand and I should certainly wash it and finish with a rainwater wash before using to be safe. If you have a TDS meter then suggest checking after you have done your final wash. Total Dissolved Solids should be between 10 and 20 ppm after giving it a good wash. TDS meters can be bought cheaply on Amazon if you do not have one (£10 - £15). Rob
  2. Were the seedlings covered by a polythene bag or in some sort of a closed environment? I would suspect the sun may have cooked them - my suggestion would be to keep them in light shade until they establish themselves. All seedlings are fragile and need some sort of protection from full sun for the first few weeks. The compost looks wet in your second photo, not a problem in itself, and if the full sun catches them when they are wet then they are liable to be scorched and die. Rob
  3. With orchids, I had a misting system and water storage containers under the benches to wet all the floor and keep the atmosphere damp. It worked well. I would have thought if you mist the canopies of CPs, there will be a danger of scorch in the midday sun unless you have a lot of shade cloth on and then you are reducing the sunlight they need. Perhaps mist the tops in the evening, but I would be careful during the day. Rob
  4. Looks very good and some really nice plants there. How long do you give it before you fill the place up ? 1 year, 6 months? Or less? Rob
  5. You can buy a TDS Meter (Total Dissolved Solids) from Amazon for less than £10. Do a search on TDS Meter for a selection. Always good to have for testing your water and rainwater should be anything from about 8 - 15 ppm if not contaminated. Water less than 50 ppm is usually fine for carnivorous plants. Kind regards, Rob
  6. Now that one I like . It is good to have some tall growing tuberous Drosera at this time of year Also the regular Drosera above. Kind regards, Rob
  7. Bernado, The original post by cgarry with photos appears to have been made in 2006. The photos must have either been removed or lost from their original location, thus we cannot see them any more. Kind regards, Rob
  8. RobH

    Tuberous Drosera

    They are nice, thanks. Kind regards, Rob
  9. If you use pond liner or thick polythene, make sure it comes well up the inside of the planter. Then you have a sealed reservoir many centimetres deep which will be deep enough to hold a large enough quantity of water for the Sarracenias. Alternatively, make sure the planter is always standing in a water tray as you would do for a regular carnivorous plant pot. Kind regards, Rob
  10. RobH

    Pygmy Drosera

    How long do these plants normally survive? I grew a range of pygmy drosera for the first time last year from gemmae including D. scorpioides, enodis, gibsonii, macrantha, pulchella, roseana, sargentii, sewelliae, stelliflora and others. Most grew well during the summer and have produced gemmae which I have now replanted. My question relates to the 'adult' plants which produced the gemmae. Will they regrow this year or will they die and just the gemmae grow? I ask this because some of the plants still look very healthy and I feel sure will regrow in the spring - particularly the larger plants like scorpioides. Other plants like roseana seems to have a mix of plants, some of which still look healthy but also has other plants which look dead. Then there are some species especially gibsonii and sewelliae where all the plants look dead to me ie they are brown and look lifeless although they did produce a few gemmae. So should I expect last years pygmy drosera plants to regrow or only expect the saved gemmae to grow this year? Thanks, Rob
  11. So Guy, it would seem that if you want to continue using your Inkbird thermostat for more precise temperature control, you need a separate ordinary fan - or another fan/heater like you have already but plugged directly into the mains and set to fan only - to keep the air moving. Kind regards, Rob
  12. Hi Guy Maybe you have a slightly different model but the Amazon description from Dunc's link does state "Features continual fan operation to aid greenhouse airing, frost prevention and extending the life of the heating element." Also, in answer to a question about the fan/heater, an Amazon user states "The fan stays on all the time but, the heating element turn off & on and keeps a stable temp." So maybe you have a slightly different or older model as Dunc states they are sold under a number of different names. Kind regards, Rob
  13. Hi Edmund Leave the still green pitchers on the Sarracenias and the VFTs as long as you can but cut off anything that is brown or black. The green pitchers or phyllodia are still providing nourishment to the plant as a whole. If you cut these off you are depriving the plant of some nourishment and it may then be smaller next year. Here is a recent short youtube video from Matt Soper of Hampshire Carnivorous Plants showing how and why to trim your plants: Cutting Back Sarracenia for Winter. Kind regards, Rob
  14. This year I have tried growing Pygmy Drosera with varying degrees of success. I have some Pygmy Drosera that have done very well from gemmae. D. stelliflora, roseana and ericksoniana x pulchella as well as others are all looking very healthy. Unfortunately, this is not the case with all my Pygmy Drosera. From the pictures below can someone tell me what is likely wrong with these plants or is it natural they should go brown at this time of year? Specifically many of the D. callistos Brookton plants have gone brown and appear dead although a few are still alive but do not seem to be producing any gemmae. D. gibsonii has grown well over the summer but now all the stems are going brown and again do not seem to be producing gemmae. I should be grateful for some input on the problems shown below. Compost is an equal mix of peat, perlite, bark chips and silica sand and the pots have been standing in rainwater all summer. Rob
  15. Just a thought. Try putting the plant and pot in a plastic bag to keep the humidity high for a couple of weeks or so and make sure it stands in about a half inch of rainwater at all times. However, remove the bag before 2 weeks are up if you see any sign of mould developing inside. D. capensis will naturally die back in the winter especially when cold, so has yours been exposed to cold conditions after repotting? Do not give up on it even if it loses all its leaves as after a winter cold spell, it will usually regrow from the base of the the plant or the roots so long as it has not been kept over wet while it has effectively been hibernating. Kind regards, Rob
  16. Really nice leuco, getting better all the time Kind regards, Rob
  17. Wow! What excellent plants Lucien . You say you grow these outdoors so can you describe the growing conditions more precisely, for example sun or shade, open environment or some cover from the elements, etc? Your compost certainly looks quite damp too. I have some Cephs outside too, they are on a patio under cover from all the elements and primarily in shade from the sun most of the time but they do not look anything like as healthy as yours and I am in the south of France. I lost a couple over the summer from getting too much sun I think as the leaves suddenly turned brown for no real reason that I could see. My plants are usually in a couple of centimetres of water at most and I let that just dry out before refilling the tray. Any help you can give regarding outside cultivation would be greatly appreciated. Kind regards, Rob
  18. I am sorry I cannot really help with those bugs Steve, but I am sure another member will comment. If the little white bugs jump, they could be springtails, but it is very difficult to see and I will let another member add their comments. I don't think they are a problem but it you are worried, wash all the soil off the plant, wash the plant and repot into fresh compost. It should not be too late to do this and do not try to make the plant go dormant early, it is unlikely to do any good. Kind regards, Rob
  19. The bugs are probably harmless but please post a close up picture if possible so they can be identified. Rob
  20. I had a similar experience earlier this year to the thread originator with a large Cephalotus in an 11cm square pot. The plant yellowed, then went brown and died just like the plants in the photos above. It has not recovered from the roots unfortunately. It had rainwater, good compost not too wet and not dry, and I can only think it may have had too much sun or became too hot during the summer although it was in partial but not full shade. Strangely enough, some young Cephs in 7 or 8cm pots that I had bought in the spring this year have all survived without problems and were fairly close to the plant which died but they were entirely in shade or had evening sun when it is much weaker. It does seem Cephs can be a bit tricky to get the conditions just right for them, so I too am interested in any suggestions for the best way to grow them to stop them rotting mid season. Rob
  21. Why not PM him here? He goes by the name Tricky Utrici and has been selling VFTs recently, very nice ones too I might add! VFT Sale Kind rgards, Rob
  22. Mike also has his own list of plants. You will often see his initials "MK" on many Sarracenias both from commercial nurseries and private individuals as his plants are very popular worldwide. This is the latest list I know of - [url= Plant Price List 2017.pdf] Mike King's 2017 List [/url]. Note these are NOT his Open Day Dates for 2019. I was there in June this year for his Open Day and asked for a more up-to-date list and Mike said he was working on it! Hopefully in time for his October Open Day this year on 19 October 2019. Kind regards, Rob Hmmm. Not quite sure why that html is not displaying correctly but you can still click the link to see his list.
  23. Anything you see with an "MK" label is one of Mike King's - of Shropshire Sarracenias - original plants and the "L1" in your example is Mike's own internal label for the plant. Mike is located in Shropshire and is primarily a private collector and holds the UK NCCPG National collection Sarracenia plants. He usually holds 2 open days in June and October where he is open to anyone who wants to see his collection and maybe buy a few plants. Well worth a visit as he has a very large collection of Sarracenias. The "SL05" in your example is the current owner's collection number for the plant - as you say Sarracenia leucophylla number 5 - and will vary from one person to another depending how they wish to number their own personal collection. Kind regards, Rob
  24. That compost does not look very wet or damp so I think it may be too dry and I would suggest the pot is far too big for a little seedling unless you have sown multiple VFT seeds in the pot. How deep is the pot and is it standing in rainwater? You could try adding water to the compost from the top of the pot or spray the plant daily with water. It is still very young and fragile at this stage. Another option would be to put the pot in a polythene bag for a few days or a week or two to keep the moisture in, but check it daily and change the air to make sure the plant does not suffer from fungus or rot. Also, keep it out of strong sunlight until it has recovered. Kind regards, Rob