marcello catalano

Full Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by marcello catalano

  1. the spiders should be Misumenops (not sure if the only species that inhabits Nepenthes is M. nepenthicola), whenever we cut pitchers for our line photos and we bring them back to the hotel, eventually we get 2-3 spiders sleeping with us in the room :)
  2. hi guys, maxxima, your plant is smilesii, no worries, the hair is visible even in the first pictures... the pitchers are a bit more squat than usual, but that can often be the case... color patterns are far too familiar, as much as the flower spike appearing so soon at the rosette stage...
  3. Hi there, that's definately a hybrid with N. gracilis
  4. before your perspective becomes too narrow, let me remind you something: in Europe and US we spend relatively high prices on these plants, and that's very attractive for SE asian poachers, but most of us also care very much about conservation, so that maybe just a handful of hidden, ashame people buys poached plants and they are not even proud of that. BUT in SE Asia, most growers/forums/communities/facebook don't really care about the poaching thing, poachers are totally free to poach and sell at very low prices, nobody will say anything, it's just something that doesn't hurt their sensibilit
  5. Hi, a part from the loss of compost through the holes, I just think that long fibered dead sphagnum mixed in equal parts with perlite would be a much better mix, even if just for safety I would avoid right now to put living sphagnum on the top, until the plants are large enough and their growth is under control. Don't worry too much about very small symptoms like colour and size of the pitchers, these species are VERY slow, you can only have a good idea of how things are going (and why) after 1-2 years, it's not a matter of months, unless they are clearly dying. Also because our european seaso
  6. Hi everybody, I know this should be in the sale section, but as it regards all regions in the world I wasn't sure of what sub-section I had to use. Plus, being the thorelii seeds involved, it's kind of an event. Yes, Trong - who traveled with me and collected these seeds while with me, while I was involved in other tasks like taking photos etc - put his stuff for sale at ridiculous prices, for the sake of conservation in cultivation. Please don't ask me anything else, ask him, the link is on facebook: Thanks, Marcello
  7. Hi Gareth, intermediate indeed, and also don't keep it too wet, I think if sphagnum in the same pot is thriving and the plant is not, then it's too wet. Mlong, both chang and bokorensis are better treated as intermediate plants too.
  8. Hi, These taxa don't need the dry season that they experience in the wild. They are mostly easy to grow, but I would avoid to keep them in a water tray, at least until they are big enough to tolerate some standing water. Depending on your climate and your other lowland nepenthes, get them used to some direct sun (don't forget that they come from the tropics, where they grow in full sun all day long). Also, I would avoid the sand in the mix (it just makes it heavy) and the sphagnum (it makes it wet for too long, good for other species but not for these), these plants do fine with the usual mix
  9. Lovely! I told you, just fill the pitchers with the chicken solution I explained, and you'll see the new leaves and pitchers getting twice larger than that! :)
  10. well, the perlite in question has been used for all my carnivores for ages without problems, when it was mixed 50-50 with peat. Surprisingly, not even mixes 50-50 with sand gave problems. So I made this mix of 90 perlite and 10 supersphag, hoping in great, hairy, light mix, but still with a little nutrient. The plants grew fine, until I noticed that the pichers were growing of good size and color, but with deformities that looked like radioactive! :) At the same time, I noticed little bubbles of green sticky algae growing on the bits of sphagnum. So I really suspect that the perlite dust, ric
  11. Thanks, yes, my attention still goes towards the properties of the clone (that BE item is a single clone, we should see if other people share your success with this particular clone) and on the fact that my perlite probably had to be washed very well BEFORE being used, washing it later is not enough. The fertilizer only made things worse (I also stick to a "chicken soup" in the traps whenever I can, it's the best thing).
  12. I've rooted both nepenthes and cephalotus in pure perlite and no problem... it could be something with adult plants, I don't know...
  13. Hi Gareth, it does in fact look very good! When I tried using such a large part of perlite (90%) I had problems for sure related to very high microconductivity (or toxicity?) and maybe lack of nutrients. I couldn't even feed the soil, as it seemed like the salts from the fertilizer would stick to the porous perlite, whose granules were covered by roots (roots love perlite, as you know, because it's wet and yet airy, not to mention the fact that in this kind of mix, it's the only thing they can stick to!). I washed the perlite from above many times, but it didn't seem to work, it was like it
  14. ciao Andrea, I wouldn't worry, your conditions are fine, we're sure that you washed your coir with plenty of water, the plants just started growing in a new set up, so it's normal that the older leaves - grown in different conditions - die off a bit quicker than expected, while new leaves adapted to the new conditions appear. And the very last leaves look better than the previous ones, so I'm sure it's just a matter of getting adapted. The next new leaves they will produce will surely last longer. As soon as some new pitchers appear, feed them with the chicken soup you know, and you'll see a
  15. I would give the plants all the time they need to produce pitchers large enough to be fed with insects (or chicken soup!). If they fail to produce pitchers with the next few new leaves, that's not a problem of lack of nutrients, and instead, you would risk to mess up things even more using coffee or fertilizers. Your conditions are great anyway, just give the plants the time they need, they are highland species after all.
  16. Luca, for a better answer you should actually know the whole story when it comes to TC and the whole story when it comes to SG. For a short answer, don't worry about your plant being TC or SG, just worry about the seller and how much you can trust him when it comes to selecting your plant. A SG plant can easily come from a terrible selection (in a batch of 50 SG nepenthes, often 2-3 are seriously big and healthy, 30 are average and nearly 20 are crap, and most nurseries for sure don't like the idea of throwing away those other 40 plants, they usually sell them to you) while a TC plant might be
  17. ah, ok, thanks Mike, that's what I wanted to know... when I saw the pinned spots I thought those were actually the gps spots... pheeeew....
  18. great Nepenthes! Can you add the names please?
  19. I'm still waiting for Wistuba's answer (I'd like him to confirm if I well understood), but I think I've fixed my database according to what his website says, you can check here for monticola and lamii:
  20. That's very good Dave, I'm starting to do the same, I hope this will become viral in the next decades...
  21. Hi! I was going to update my code database with this "BE N. lamii = N. monticola", but I can't find any other reference to this opinion a part from this thread. Is there any actual reason to think this is true, except the way this plant responds in cultivation? Thanks
  22. Hi! the sanguinea could grow very fast because she's happy or because there's not enough light, hard to say without photos. But the answer to the other questions is "no, it's not normal". every leaf should produce a nice, healthy, colorful pitcher. But of course in cultivation many many times this doesn't happen, because the environment is not good for some reason. You can see how the two very easy and common hybrids, both very tolerant of less humidity, high temperatures and lower light, are growing better than the two (still relatively easy) species. The reasons could be more than one: lack