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Hello, Let me show you couple of pictures from my trip to the top of G. Trusmadi.

I purchased this plant a few weeks ago as Nepenthes distillatoria, but it looks rather different from pictures of distillatoria online, especially with the upper half of the pitcher being mottled. Anyone know what it could be? Unfortunately there is only one pitcher on the plant.

Here are some quick shots of my hep seedlings. I forgot to turn the leds off so they're a bit pink. here are a few more. Here are a few more, I just got a new point and shoot so I'm fiddling around with it. maybe these came out little better? only thing is this time the fogger was on, gah can't get it just right yet. I guess I have to do it wrong before I do it right. Here is a tiny N. kinabaluensis (N. villosa x N. rajah) despite its size I really like the shape its grown into very shapely for such a small specimen. two seed grown hamata and a small AW macro, among others. N. ramspina N. jamban and N. lowii an old BE N. hamata shadowing three sg eddies N. flava finally starting to look flava like N. vietchii already striping itself out and a complete chamber shot. Here is a cool little rajah, I got it at the same time as the other 4 and its from the same seed pod but its growth is really out pacing the others. thank you for looking. As I figure out how to take better pics and maybe a vid I'll try to improve the photo quality and color.

My male Nepenthes truncata (T. C. clone, 6-7 years old; 2016: 40 cm pitchers !!; windowsill culture) makes just 2 flowering shoots. If anyone is interested to pollen so he should contact me? More can then discuss it. Greetings.

Is it okay to use perlite in the mix for nepenthes ventricosa. I purchased one and it very quickly started to die off. The supplier said it's because of perlite in the mix, they said it burns the roots and is for large plants Only. I'm not so sure as the mix was purchased stating it was for this purpose.. any help will be appreciated

This is a selection of pictures from the recent Redfern expedition to Hose Mountain, in central Borneo, with an additional ascent of Trus Madi, the second highest peak after Kinabalu at 2,642 metres. Aware that Vincent posted many pictures from Trus Madi, I have tried to complement his picture set. I have kept the picture sizes small so as not to dis-advantage viewers with poor internet connections. If anyone wants an original, please ask. Trus Madi This is a distant shot of the Trus Madi ridge, with the double peak to the right, the summit being on the far right. The notch between the two peaks holds a lovely mossy forest. After a lot of recent expenditure, the reserve has a new entrance gateway, accommodation block and boardwalk on the lower mountain reaches Beyond the boardwalk it is a clear trail up, though there are a few roped sections and the odd bit of metalwork to assist. There are some lovely mossy forest sections on the way up already rich in orchids, though few were in flower at the time. After much ascent, and sort of being convinced that Nepenthes were entirely absent, I rounded a bend in the trail and suddenly came upon stands of N.lowii. The habitat is worth showing as it does give a better appreciation of the conditions this species prefers. The "trees" in the mossy forest are short (perhaps 4-6m) and the vines scramble through them in the more open sections. Pretty much everything that is fixed down is moss covered, and the branches can be "wrung out" if you squeeze the moss. Pitchers hang at various heights and the path passes underneath some, whilst others rest on the mossy floor. This species is "famous" for being a loo for shrews, and i am pretty sure this is what fills this pitcher whilst Stewart pointed out a pitcher with an infaunal community of mosquito larvae which call lowii pitchers their "nursery". This is, of course, cloud forest and moving higher and beyond the main lowii stands meant that visibility often dropped off with James here ascending via ropes and ladders up a very cloudy face. From the first photo in this post you will recall the twin peaks, and this photo is taken from the first (with its new shiny observation tower), looking back along the ridges to the telecomms unit just along the ridge. The path passes alongside this. This picture gives some idea of the steepness of the slopes but also, because of altitudinal opportunities, how narrow the high mossy forest areas are. Between the observation tower and summit, from which this photo was taken, is a fine mossy forest in the dip between the higher ground. This is home to the population of Nepenthes macrophylla. Obligatory omg shot, I am afraid! I am allowed one/post! If anything, this macrophylla forest was even mossier than the lowii one Eventually, Team Hose reaches the summit of Trus Madi. Marc, James, Stewart, me and Richard. Of course, where you have 2 species, one can have hybrids, and my descent with our guide (I set off early as i am always much slower descending) resulted in seeing 3 of the 5 known (to our guide) Nepenthes x trusmadiensis plants. Of particular note is the weaker peristome, with relatively poorly formed teeth (and these are much softer to the touch than the sharp macrophylla ones), and the noticeable waist to the pitcher. The last photo was from a plant scrambling through a tree canopy level with the path, so steep is the drop from the ridge. Hose Mountain to be completed another day.

Roridula dentata from seed!! Roridula gorgonias on bloom!! Drosera aff. macrantha Nepenthes ventricosa x maxima from seed on bloom!! (very strong, grows all yeat outdoor in Florence)! Happy new year to all!! Cheers, Lorenzo

Hi everyone ,on 18-11-2015 I receive my N.Hamata and some Heliamfora from Wistuba very well pact and healthy....from that day all my nepenthes and almost all heliamfora start to have problems like dry lives and pitchers with out any reason....so I search in the forum and internet and I see that some people have mite problems from Wistuba Iam not expert in mites symptoms so Iam asking you to see the pictures and tell me if you can what is the problem.... The first picture is taken by 20-11-2015 my Hamata has all the pitches healthy so the Heliamphora too... image url upload Now a closer look of symptoms: 20mb image hosting

Hey im Sabian and i like to draw and paint things so heres some of my nepenthes drawings and paintings :) - Sabian Mehmetaj

About a month ago on a very windy night my outdoor greenhouse collapsed fortunately two of my neps are fine but my veitchii x burbidgeae has got some damage but im worried about it surviving.ive asked many collectors on instagram who have had years of experience with them and they say that it should snap back but i just need more info its been around half a month or so and still nothing:( i just need to know if it will survive and how long till it wakes up if so and maybe if so some tips:) ill post some pics⬇️⬇️⬇️ - Sabian Mehmetaj

Hi all, Would anyone be able to direct me to some decent internet (or otherwise) resources on propane greenhouse heaters. I'm running a 6k Shilton Hotbox to heat my highland nepenthes house. I bought it on eBay last year and worked fine all winter. I sent it back to the manufacturer in the summer for a full service and until three days ago it was working fine. Now it just won't stay on. Kirklees Developments ( the manufacturer), think it's a venting issue. Strange though as the venting situation hasn't changed (although the weather has been very calm the last few days, so perhaps not enough pull of air through the house?). Argggggggh! It's so frustrating! Can't anyone shed some light on this issue? Any help/advice greatly appreciated!

Hi, my N. aristolochioides is going to flower soon. It seems to be a male plant (see picture). If there is interest in getting some pollen, please pm. Another way to contact me: Nepenthes pollen register http://pollen.carnivoren.org/listdetails.php?id=395 Best regards, Chris

Hi everyone, I currently have in my collection a young plant grown from wild Nepenthes lowii seeds harvested on the Kinabalu. It grows pretty well with my other highlanders, maybe too quickly for a N. lowii, but... Do you think it looks like a pure N. lowii ? I find it very hairy, looks quite similar to something like N. lowii x veitchii or else. What's your opinion ?

Hi there im wanting to soon grow my cps in a different area with out cacti and stuff.but i dont know what to grow in.what would be better a small plastic greenhouse a glass tererium or a grow tent.i like the grow tent and tererium as my plants will stay indoors in my house.my collection is small around 4 plants at the moment but will be growing as all do.i have a budget of around £40 remember i will need to get some lights not matter what as now in autum/winter we hardly get sun light so im scared if my plants will die.at the moment im growing all plants in a large plastic greenhouse housing 50 plants all together.i might also get a humidifier as humidity is low but in tereriums i dont need one.pls help me:) - Sabian

Hello, I took the Mrs out for a walk in Daisy Nook Country Park in Failsworth, Manchester, and while there, we popped into the garden centre. I spotted some rather nice looking neps in the house plant section, and got tempted... Although about four of the pitchers are a bit dry around the top, the rest of the plant is in excellent condition, and for £14.99, I felt it was worth buying. Each of those pitchers is around 7" long, as you can see from this next picture... Can anyone tell me what kind of nep this is? Predictably, the label didn't say anything more than Nepenthes. At the moment, it's hanging up in our morning room, just near the turtle tank. It was in the kitchen when I took the pictures above, but I decided that was too close to the cooker, so moved it. It's hanging up in a skylight (very similar to what you can see in the first picture), so will get plenty of light there. How do I look after it? It was quite dry when I bought it, so I gave it a good watering, most of which came out of the bottom, and have sprayed it 2-3 times every day. Not sure if I'll remember to keep that up though. Any comments or care tips? I have two N. Bloody Mary with my other plants, but they are not much bigger than when I bought them. I'd like to encourage them and this to grow and be healthy, so any help you can give would be appreciated. If anyone is local, they had about 5 or 6, so should still have some left. I'm seriously thinking of going back for another!

Hi there im in need for some plants so can i have free plants like sundew seedlings anything would work but seeds will be okay but will need a detail of how to germinate and grow them pls get back :) -Sabian

Hi there my name is Sabian im 12 and in the uk nottingham i currently own 4 carnivorous plants 3 nepenthes one dionea i kniw quite a bit but would like more info on other speacies like heli's butterworts and stuff my nepenthes are 1 n.ventra 1 n.ventriicosa x talangensis and 1 vietchii x burbidgeae im wanting to expand my collection with new plants drosera,heli's,nepenthes,butterwort and cephalotus's :/ so umm ya -Sabian

Hi, Some pics of my lowland setup. I hope you'll enjoy them. :) Nepenthes campanulata Nepenthes pervillei It caused me many problems since I have it... So I hope that its last leaf jump is a good thing. Nepenthes northiana Nepenthes bicalcarata Sri Aman Nepenthes clipeata AW clone 2 Nepenthes "Briggsiana" Nepenthes adnata Nepenthes sumatrana, can't wait to see true lowers and no more these very boring rosette pitchers... Nepenthes treubiana Nepenthes vieillardii Nepenthes bellii Not a Nepenthes but a nice Heliamphora ciliata.

Hi there, in the last weeks I took some fotos from my terrarium-plants and like to show them to you. Some of the terras are very crowded, due to the fact, that the plants do grow and grow and... (Who'd have thunk? ). I'm not quite sure, how to get the plants out there some day... It's a mix of younger and older Nepenthes and Heliamphora. So, here are the pics, hope you enjoy them. Best regards, Christian ... to be continued

Hello Everyone, I would like to provide and update on my attempts to grow a N ampullaria on a windowsill in the UK. I've always wanted to grow this plant. But since my girlfriend moved in, the space I'm allowed to dedicate to carnivorous plants has been somewhat restricted ("houses are for people, not for carnivorous plants" she says). So unfortunately I don't have space for a terrarium large enough to house a Nepenthes. A couple of years ago I thought I'd see whether it was possible to grow this plant on a windowsill. I bought a nice speckled ampullaria from Andreas Wistuba and simply placed it on a windowsill (that doesn't receive any direct sunlight) under some growlux tubes. The plant immediately stopped forming pitchers and as the months passed the rosette of pitcherless leaves was getting smaller and smaller. I suspected the plant was heading for a slow death. The next thing I tried was coiling a soil warming cable around the inside of the pot. This coil was attached to a thermostat which I set to 24C. Over the next few months the leaves slowly began to grow larger but still did not form pitchers. So then a few months ago I placed a plastic dome over the plant to increase the humidity. Here are some photos of my plant now. It responded very posittively to the increase in humidity and is now forming very nice pitchers. So it does appear to be possible to create the correct temperature and humidity conditions for lowland nepenthes on a UK windowsill; using a thermostatically controlled soil warming cable and a plastic dome. However this is not a cheap solution. The soil warming cable cost around £30 and the thermostatic controller cost around £45. I hope this post is useful for some other growers. Regards Mark

I've been advised to move my photos out of my growlist thread and into the correct section of the forum, as not many people check growlist threads and so other nepenthes enthusiasts may then be missing my shots. Point taken, but you're not missing much yet as all my plants are still small. So here goes, you will be able to track the progress of my plants in this thread...

Greetings from an expat in the Netherlands! I admit to knowing zero about CPs. However I did buy a Nepenthes Linda two years ago from a market stall because I just loved the way it looked. It had at least six lovely large pitchers which have all since died I thought for sure the Nepenthes would die too, but it hasn't. In fact it has been growing madly and has leaves and tendrils with embryo pitchers and now weird flowers. So I've joined CPUK to find out how to take better care of it and maybe grow some pitchers. Thank you in advance for your help! PS - Should I post photos?

Hello Do you know of anyone that has done some experiments to measure how much difference various cutting striking methods make for Nepenthes? For example, some people claim that a particular slicing technique is better while someone else suggests something different. Some people suggest putting a split in the base of the stem while other people say to put slits in the outer layer of tissue. With a very sharp knife blade, I used to cut the petiole (at the base of the cutting) off where it joins the stem so the cut also removes the outer layer of tissue on the stem to expose the meristematic tissue. However, a friend who did some cuttings with me who knew a lot about it, suggested this was not necessary and he just used secateurs to cut the stem below the node without doing any other splicing. He also suggested dipping the cutting in water or rooting hormone as quickly as possible after cutting the stem to avoid air getting trapped in the base of the stem. Then he would wrap the stem in sphagnum and pot as soon as he took the cutting out of the water or hormone. I have been dipping the cutting in a solution of wettable sulfur just before potting to stop fungi. However, other people do not recommend this. Also, some people recommend root hormone while other people say that it does not help. I wonder if any of these techniques make much difference and if any tests have been done to compare the difference. Do you know of any tests where a reasonable number of cuttings had one of these methods done and it was compared to a number of the same variety planted at the same time under the same conditions where the method was not done? If not, do you know of anyone that could do this experiment? It would be worthwhile, as it could save a lot of time and expense in doing something that may not be necessary. Regards Richard.