Richard Hole

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    Tolga, Australia.

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  1. Hello I am wondering what you think of my method to restore old potting mix for carnivorous plants that was mixed maybe 2 or 3 years ago or if you know of a better and more simpler way? I have been using half sphagnum based TEEM peat and half perlite for Sarracenia. I am thinking of removing moss and old roots in the pots and pouring the mix from them into a polystyrene box with holes in the bottom. I could put the box on top of another box of old mix. Above them, I could put another empty box with holes in the bottom so water entering it would be spread evenly over the boxes below.
  2. Hi Below are the Nepenthes I have. I prefer to use the same mix for all of them. Do you think a mixture of peat moss and coarse perlite with a size of 10mm would be better? ventrata or ventricosa x alata maxima venticosa x truncata miranda According to Wikipedia, it is a ((N. maxima × N. northiana) × N. maxima) hybrid. gentle edwardsiana x burbidgea ventricosa veitchii x huerilliana venticosa x maxima sibuyanensis lantern Lantern (N Rebecca Soper). ventricosa x caruneulata var robusta ventricosa x truncata konak (albomarginata x veitchii) venticosa x
  3. Hi Do Nepenthes worry much about what potting mix is used if I use coir, peat and perlite? The coir I had before had some large chunks about 20mm wide but the one I have now does not have them. It is https://www.bunnings.com.au/brunnings-90l-coir-power-garden-soil-mulch-block_p2960146 . Currently I have sphagnum based peat and medium grade perlite mixed up in equal proportions which I use for Sarracenia and plan to add other things to that mix for Nepenthes. The size of the perlite is about 4mm. I am wondering what proportion of my current coir I could mix with my current peat an
  4. Hi Has anyone tried pine needles in Nepenthes mix and have any more to suggest since this topic was posted a few years ago? I am wondering if they would also help aerate the potting mix long term. Regards Richard.
  5. Hi Thanks for the link. It is a lot colder in winter where the VFTs grow naturally than my temperatures are in winter. Normally I do not put them in the fridge. However, the ones I bought at the nursery are not given a dormancy and this winter it is forecast to be warmer than normal so I thought they would do better if given good dormancy. What I may do is not bother about putting them in the fridge when the weather is cooler in winter. However, they will probably experience a longer photo period than they did at the nursery in Melbourne. However, the intensity of the light sho
  6. Hello I received some Venus Fly Traps in the mail a couple of days ago that I purchased bare rooted and wrapped in sphagnum moss. The grower from Melbourne does not let them go into dormancy and keeps them heated all year round. At the moment, days in Melbourne are shorter than at my place. So I thought I would purchase them now in mid winter and put them in the fridge for about a month before potting them just before spring. This is because my winter temperature average range is between about 13 and 21 degrees but may be higher this year due to the forecast. We only rarely get down to
  7. Hello I asked about pruning Sarracenia before on the forum. However, since them I thought of other ideas that could help growers. In the past I have got my workers to selectively only cut the dead leaves and leave the green ones. However, this takes much longer than cutting everything off and would cost me hundreds of dollars in wages more than if they cut everything off in one go at the base just above the crown. I am just wondering if it there is much significant difference to the health of the plant next Spring or Summer between the plants that have everything above the crown r
  8. Hi The terrarium where I will propagate the plants will be heated. However, the greenhouse where I have the plants that I will be taking the cuttings from will not be fully heated. Therefore, if I leave taking the cuttings go until after the cold snap then some of the plants in the greenhouse may get stressed due to the cold and the cutting material may possibly not strike as well. I am wondering if this will be the case for the temperatures I described. Regards Richard.
  9. Hello Do you think the season or weather conditions when Nepenthes cuttings are taken will make much difference to the success rate if the cuttings will be planted in a heated terrarium? A cold snap is predicted as Winter has just started, so I thought it may be better to take the cuttings just before it in case the plants became stressed due to the cold. The temperature range is predicted to be from 9 to 20°C from Friday for a few days. Temperatures have mostly been above 15°C up till now. Would it be much advantage to take the cuttings before the cold snap? If I leave it go until s
  10. Hi Do you know anyone that has tried honey in the tissue culture medium or are you able to try it? It kills bacteria and is good for plants and striking cuttings. I have used it to strike cuttings. Honey may increase the chances of the plants in culture living without infection and it may save a lot of time and expense of the extra sterilization. I thought it would be a low cost safe solution. I read sugar is used in the mix. Honey could possibly replace that. Do you know anyone else that knows a lot about tissue culture and may be interested in trying honey or finding out about it? I
  11. Hello Do you know any webpages which outline how big the traps of the different Venus Flytrap varieties get? If we can find this information, it could help growers to sell more plants as it will make it easier for people to decide what varieties to get For example, It would be good to find out how big the traps of the "Fast" variety gets in comparison to "Big Mouth" variety and how large "Big Mouth" gets in comparison to "big vigorous" and how "big vigorous" compares to "G4xG37" and how "G4xG37" compares to "DC XL". Let me know of any information or if you have a rough idea of compar
  12. Hi I live at Tolga near Cairns in tropical Australia at an altitude of 757 meters and the dew is extremely heavy at the moment and wets things outside even by 9 PM. A few people have suggested morning at about 9 AM just after the dew dries on the plants. Do you know the best way to find out if thrips are on the plants before they do damage? Would a microscope be needed? I have struggled to see them through a magnifying glass. If I could identify how many are there it may save having to make a follow up spray as I did spray about 3 weeks ago. Your help is appreciated Regards Ric
  13. Hello When is the best time of the day to spray Sarracenia for thrips on sunny days when the maximum temperature is about 28°C and when there is a heavy dew? I am spraying Yates Success that is described at http://www.yates.com.au/products/pest-control/insects-concentrates/yates-success-ultra-insect-control/#5cLPUyQJOW5eMA1J.97 . It says "Do not spray when shade temperatures are near 28°C or higher" "Contains spinetoram, the latest generation insect control derived from beneficial soil bacteria. Spinetoram has translaminar movement, which means it moves into the leaf, making the solution re
  14. Hi I wonder if the bubbler will aireate all the tray of water if it is a shallow tray. Perhaps it may need to bubble in a few places in the tray and also do you think that such a set up would save having to ever change the water until the cuttings strike? Regards Richard.