Greg Seed

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Greg Seed last won the day on June 26

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  1. Yeah, that radiator in your photo is going to play havoc with the plants! Are you able to move them away from it when it starts coming on?
  2. Depends on the weather. I keep all my neps in a south-facing conservatory which heats up a lot when it is sunny, but stays very cool when it is cloudy. On a hot, sunny day, both humidifiers can drain their 4 litre tanks in a day. With more typical Welsh weather, they can last a week. Incidentally, I've been using fairly hard tapwater in them for over two years with no problems. I just clean the plate with the little brush that came with them every now and then.
  3. This is what I use: https://puremate.co.uk/product/puremate-pm-908-digital-ultrasonic-cool-mist-humidifier-with-ioniser-aroma-function-black/ You can set the humidity to anywhere between 40 and 75 and it comes on as necessary.
  4. Definitely better to wait if they are growing well. Don't worry about them too much - they are surprisingly tough! If there hasn't been a huge jump in pot size, it should be fine to wait until they next need potting on. Just don't overwater! If it is possible, the best way to tell when to water is the weight of the pot - if you wait for it to start feeling slightly light before you water, you can't go too wrong. Good luck!
  5. I've used that compost for sundews in a pinch, but I wouldn't use it for nepenthes unless I had to. They will be ok, but they would prefer a less heavy mix - you will need to be careful not to overwater. If you only potted them up a day or two ago and you have sphagnum, I would repot them in a sphagnum/perlite mix.
  6. Photos 5 and 6 are definitely rafflesiana, but not sure about the others. Some look like hybrids.
  7. Hello. Probably nothing to worry about here. That could be a mealy bug, but looks like it could be one of the predatory species that are used commercially to control mealy. Keep a close eye out for any more, but don't panic. The black stuff is probably sooty mould which feeds on nectar. Not pretty, but not a problem. The sundews will have less dew as a result of the decreased humidity and increased light intensity outdoors. Do what you can to increase local humidity - a wider water tray, perhaps - but I'll they will adjust.
  8. By vigorous do you mean quick to produce offsets, or producing lots of pitchers in a season? Slack's flava 'Maxima' forms a good clump pretty quickly and will produce at least three or four pitchers per growing point. Brooks Hybrid gets really tall, but isn't the quickest to form a clump.
  9. Sounds like low humidity or maybe too close to the lights.
  10. 25% humidity is extremely low. The new leaves will be better adapted to the low humidity, but the plant is unlikely to thrive. I would invest in a humidifier which can be set to turn on when the humidity is too low. Mine are set to 75%.
  11. Glad you've nailed down the problem! You'll probably need to reapply the provado. Just follow the instructions and you'll be fine. All these little sods have preferences. I have lots of different plants which are susceptible to spider mite but i rarely find them on anything other than my Alocasias. Kids don't eat carrots when there is cake on the table! I noticed in your photos that the damage is largely restricted to the green parts of the plants. My guess is that they don't like the anthocyanins in the purps and psitts.
  12. A quick google search brought this up: https://carnivorousplantresource.com/thrip-damaged-pitcher-plant/
  13. They're difficult to spot at the best of times. They are good at hiding - they like to nestle under the lip, for example - and it doesn't take many of them to do lots of damage. Keep an eye on the plants which have very little or no damage - that's where i would expect to see them. I've not heard of them attacking any of those other genera.
  14. I'm still 99% sure it's thrips. Tar-like black spots and a scratched-off appearance of the leaf on the outside only (insects can't climb on the inside of the tube - not a problem for fungus) are exactly what i look for if I'm worried about thrips.
  15. I would say it looks like thrips droppings. I had exactly those black spots on a new plant last year. When I spotted more appearing, I thoroughly inspected the plant and found one or two adults. Once they were gone, the black spots stopped appearing. I would remove the damage, isolate the plants and spray with provado. Is it possible to stop bees etc getting to the plants and eating the provado-flavoured nectar?