Greg Seed

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Greg Seed last won the day on June 20 2020

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    Vale of Glamorgan, Wales

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  1. By vigorous do you mean quick to produce offsets, or producing lots of pitchers in a season? Slack's flava 'Maxima' forms a good clump pretty quickly and will produce at least three or four pitchers per growing point. Brooks Hybrid gets really tall, but isn't the quickest to form a clump.
  2. Sounds like low humidity or maybe too close to the lights.
  3. 25% humidity is extremely low. The new leaves will be better adapted to the low humidity, but the plant is unlikely to thrive. I would invest in a humidifier which can be set to turn on when the humidity is too low. Mine are set to 75%.
  4. Glad you've nailed down the problem! You'll probably need to reapply the provado. Just follow the instructions and you'll be fine. All these little sods have preferences. I have lots of different plants which are susceptible to spider mite but i rarely find them on anything other than my Alocasias. Kids don't eat carrots when there is cake on the table! I noticed in your photos that the damage is largely restricted to the green parts of the plants. My guess is that they don't like the anthocyanins in the purps and psitts.
  5. A quick google search brought this up:
  6. They're difficult to spot at the best of times. They are good at hiding - they like to nestle under the lip, for example - and it doesn't take many of them to do lots of damage. Keep an eye on the plants which have very little or no damage - that's where i would expect to see them. I've not heard of them attacking any of those other genera.
  7. I'm still 99% sure it's thrips. Tar-like black spots and a scratched-off appearance of the leaf on the outside only (insects can't climb on the inside of the tube - not a problem for fungus) are exactly what i look for if I'm worried about thrips.
  8. I would say it looks like thrips droppings. I had exactly those black spots on a new plant last year. When I spotted more appearing, I thoroughly inspected the plant and found one or two adults. Once they were gone, the black spots stopped appearing. I would remove the damage, isolate the plants and spray with provado. Is it possible to stop bees etc getting to the plants and eating the provado-flavoured nectar?
  9. One of the reviews on Amazon said it had slow-release fertiliser in it. The review was a couple of years old so it may have changed since then, but I don't want to take the chance at that price.Let me know if you find any anywhere!
  10. Anyone know where to get a good peat or growbark pine home delivery at the moment? Nothing on ebay, Amazon only have some suspect Sycamore Trading stuff and seems like no-one will deliver growbark without a whopping delivery charge. Help!
  11. Do you have a cat? I have to put my Heliamphoras where my cat can't reach them!
  12. My mistake - sorry! I've used it on sundews before with no problems, but not worth taking the chance if it could cause problems. Provado is usually my first choice.
  13. Definitely aphids - I can even see a live one on a capensis in the 13th photo from the top! When there is only a few on a sundew, I prefer to feed them back to the plant they've been eating! When there are lots, you can submerge the plant in rainwater for a couple of days to drown them or, as suggested, use an insecticide. I can vouch for Provado Ultimate Big Killer and SB plant invigorator, although a few drops of washing up liquid in a spray bottle of rainwater works too. Worth flushing the pot very well after using any insecticide.
  14. I would cut the stem back until the scar shows only green tissue, as there is a chance that any rot in dead tissue could spread. Fungicide might help, but I don't know which to recommend, I'm afraid.
  15. Hello and welcome! I grow sundews, Sarracenia, Nepenthes and Heliamphora in a conservatory with no problems - a terrarium isn't necessary for your plants. The sundew would be ok if there is enough light, but the pitcher would probably get grumpy. I suspect they'd both be happier on the windowsill. Is there plenty of sun? The pitcher would prefer 6 hours or more of direct light. You'll need to put it outside for winter so that it can get a proper dormancy, but the sundews can stay inside all year. If you have your heart set on a terrarium, maybe some tropical sundews and/or smal