Greg Seed

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Everything posted by Greg Seed

  1. Glad you've nailed down the problem! You'll probably need to reapply the provado. Just follow the instructions and you'll be fine. All these little sods have preferences. I have lots of different plants which are susceptible to spider mite but i rarely find them on anything other than my Alocasias. Kids don't eat carrots when there is cake on the table! I noticed in your photos that the damage is largely restricted to the green parts of the plants. My guess is that they don't like the anthocyanins in the purps and psitts.
  2. A quick google search brought this up:
  3. They're difficult to spot at the best of times. They are good at hiding - they like to nestle under the lip, for example - and it doesn't take many of them to do lots of damage. Keep an eye on the plants which have very little or no damage - that's where i would expect to see them. I've not heard of them attacking any of those other genera.
  4. I'm still 99% sure it's thrips. Tar-like black spots and a scratched-off appearance of the leaf on the outside only (insects can't climb on the inside of the tube - not a problem for fungus) are exactly what i look for if I'm worried about thrips.
  5. I would say it looks like thrips droppings. I had exactly those black spots on a new plant last year. When I spotted more appearing, I thoroughly inspected the plant and found one or two adults. Once they were gone, the black spots stopped appearing. I would remove the damage, isolate the plants and spray with provado. Is it possible to stop bees etc getting to the plants and eating the provado-flavoured nectar?
  6. One of the reviews on Amazon said it had slow-release fertiliser in it. The review was a couple of years old so it may have changed since then, but I don't want to take the chance at that price.Let me know if you find any anywhere!
  7. Anyone know where to get a good peat or growbark pine home delivery at the moment? Nothing on ebay, Amazon only have some suspect Sycamore Trading stuff and seems like no-one will deliver growbark without a whopping delivery charge. Help!
  8. Do you have a cat? I have to put my Heliamphoras where my cat can't reach them!
  9. My mistake - sorry! I've used it on sundews before with no problems, but not worth taking the chance if it could cause problems. Provado is usually my first choice.
  10. Definitely aphids - I can even see a live one on a capensis in the 13th photo from the top! When there is only a few on a sundew, I prefer to feed them back to the plant they've been eating! When there are lots, you can submerge the plant in rainwater for a couple of days to drown them or, as suggested, use an insecticide. I can vouch for Provado Ultimate Big Killer and SB plant invigorator, although a few drops of washing up liquid in a spray bottle of rainwater works too. Worth flushing the pot very well after using any insecticide.
  11. I would cut the stem back until the scar shows only green tissue, as there is a chance that any rot in dead tissue could spread. Fungicide might help, but I don't know which to recommend, I'm afraid.
  12. Hello and welcome! I grow sundews, Sarracenia, Nepenthes and Heliamphora in a conservatory with no problems - a terrarium isn't necessary for your plants. The sundew would be ok if there is enough light, but the pitcher would probably get grumpy. I suspect they'd both be happier on the windowsill. Is there plenty of sun? The pitcher would prefer 6 hours or more of direct light. You'll need to put it outside for winter so that it can get a proper dormancy, but the sundews can stay inside all year. If you have your heart set on a terrarium, maybe some tropical sundews and/or smal
  13. Hello, I'm not a Nepenthes expert, but the two dark ones don't look very hopeful I'm afraid. Is there any green in the stem at all? The other two look like they'll be ok. I tend to prioritise humidity with new plants - I use a ziplock bag for each pot so that I can gradually open them when each plant starts growing. Does the propagator completely mist up? If so, good! Your mix looks good and well-drained, so I'd keep them on the moist side. They won't need watering much at all if the humidity is close to 100%. Light is less important at first, so I wouldn't keep them too close t
  14. Looks like two Miranda to me - one producing lower pitchers, the other producing uppers.
  15. That's interesting - I've grown that plant in the past but never managed to get a sniff of it! I've had Amorphophallus albus and sauromatum venosum doing their thing nearby each other at the same time this morning. Smelt like someone had used a stagnant pond as a toilet!
  16. Looks like 'Bloody Mary' - also mass-produced in Holland.
  17. Looks like 'Rebecca Soper'. I believe it is grown in Holland under the incorrect name sanguinea.
  18. Yeah, they are great. Your konjac has a very green petiole - they are usually beige/grey-green with dark patches - looks more like A. nepalensis to me. Another cool plant!
  19. Many aroids temporarily trap insects in order to shower them with pollen, but none are carnivorous.
  20. Very nice. I'm pretty sure your A. nepalensis is an A. bulbifer. If you look at the top of the petiole where the leaf splits into 3, you may see a small tuber forming! I bought an A. paeoniifolius this year which turned out to be nepalensis - it's quite common with tuberous aroids to receive something other than what you ordered, unfortunately. Glad you're having fun - they're addictive!
  21. You might find this interesting: ttp:// - follow the link at the very bottom of the page. It is one person's attempt to clear up who has which clones and which number they apply to each clone. It's also an excellent library of photos of many of the clones that are in circulation. He has plenty of interesting stuff elsewhere on his website about sarracenia and plenty of other interesting genera. Check it out - it's great!
  22. Hello. I'm definitely not a succulent expert, but the cactus looks fine. Maybe it got too cold or wet? Sudden increase in sun or heat? If it's not getting any worse, I wouldn't worry. The other one (maybe a Haworthia or sempervivum?) definitely looks like it's being eaten. The damage looks like molluscs, but the black specks look like insect droppings so I'm not sure. You could try slug pellets and/or a systemic insecticide?
  23. Hello, Normally it wouldn't be a good idea to repot now, but if they have no drainage holes it probably is for the best. I would keep the compost around the roots in place and just fill in around the current "rootball" in a pot just a little larger than the one they are in - as you would when repotting a shrub, for example. In other words, don't wash-off or disturb the roots. Unfortunately a north-facing windowsill won't do - South is best. Don't be disheartened if they don't do well - try buying from a reputable CP nursery. I can vouch for Hewitt-Cooper CP, South West CP, PJ Plants
  24. Greg Seed


    Hello, South west window should be fine if you have them close to the glass. VFT can be a little tricky to over winter as they need it to be a little cooler than room temp and are likely to rot in the pure peat compost that they tend to come in if bought from a garden centre, but most common sundews we are pretty easy going. For fly control, I would recommend a Sarracenia flava - although it would need to go outside for its winter dormancy. Good luck!
  25. Thanks very much. As it happens, I bought a very nice D. binata 'Extrema' from him which is doing splendidly!