Nepenthesleep

Hey there, Sorry to hijack this thread, but I was wondering if anyone could identify this plant for me. Thanks.

I've been keeping mine in standing water periodically throughout winter. I've been using tapwater, and to be frank, it has done better than virtually all my other plants. I did get a little dying back but there were always a crop of pitcher there. There are currently 2-3 rosettes of non-c leaves coming up and some hairy little pitchers. I'm not sure, but maybe cephalotus likes a dry atmosphere? Because I've been keeping it pretty well watered, though it dries out so fast. Maybe the plant doesn't like really humid conditions?

Thanks for the second link. There it is: Zerotol. So it's just H2O2! And they were going to charge me that much for it! Do you know if bleach will work alright? Or is it better to stick with H2O2? Muchas gracias mis amigos! edit: Zerotol does have some added organic compounds such as peroxyacetic acid though I may just go with bleach since there's no plants and there's pretty good ventilation.

As many of you know, I am working to fix my school greenhouse. I received an estimate for repair from a company that fixes ghs in Denver. Our next step is to clean the greenhouse and throw away all the old equipment since none of it works. When we got the estimate, it was recommended that we spray the house with a pesticide that I believe is called zyrotol. I went over to the local garden center to find the pesticide. The manager said that we had to special order the pesticide from an outside source. This would cost us 118 USD. Our budget so far is only about 100 USD though I am writing a number of grants and we have started a number of fundraising programs. This pesticide, however, is the first thing we need. My question is, is there another pesticide that performs the same function yet is much cheaper and safer? Also, is there a combination of pesticides that will be cheaper? The amount of zyrotol needed was ~2.5 gallons. Thank you, N

What's the species of that fern on the left of the first picture? I went on a hike in the Flatirons a week ago and saw tonnes of them. I didn't know they could grow in such high cold areas. It's a very nice park. Very green and I love how there are trees all over the rocks.

Hello, got this wonderful Sarracenia from elgecko a good while back. He thought it was a S. alata but now that I see more developed pitchers, I think it's a type of rubra. The flower was red and had a sweet cinnamon smell to it. The hood is very large for most plants so now I'm uncertain of what variety (or is it subspecies? I forget). Sorry for photo quality. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v234/McInew/000_0744.jpg PS, I realize the plant's a little bendy. I'm fixing up a better growing area next year

Okay, I found the RHS and they have some suppliers of nelumbo (or it says so). Here's the link: http://www.rhs.org.uk/RHSPlantFinder/plant...p;Genus=Nelumbo Dorset Water Lilies appears to have what you're looking for: http://www.rhs.org.uk/RHSPlantFinder/nurse...;so=pf&mo=N

Hmm. I'm not sure you'll need to get one without holes. I have a water lily so what I do is put a tab about 5-6 cm below the soil surface. I would also cover the soil with gravel, it keeps the dirt in the pot. If you want to, you can cover the holes with insoluble putty or aquarium silicon. When you get the water lotus, I would put it in a small quarantine tub (If you have space). Put an expendable cp or a robust section of A. vesiculosa in that tub and see how it does. Again, I strongly recommend water hyacinth, Egeria densa, and water lettuce. I looked for the largest water garden dealers but I don't know if they are good, living in colorado. But I went to their websites and they seem reasonable, though I couldn't find any Nelumbo. http://www.thekrib.com/Organizations/water-gardens.html I am about to look for a water garden society in the uk. I work for the curator of water gardening at the Denver Botanic Gardens and he knows some people there. Oh, I'm not sure but you might have to wait til late winter/early spring to get one, I believe that's the best time to buy plants. Good luck

Hello all, I showed you pictures of my cephalotus when it was still in quarantine and acclimatisation. The plastic bag is off the plant and it has been growing on a east facing windowsill and watered with tap water. It has shown some adequate coloration though not as deep as others I have seen. I think I will try it on a south facing window when I feel confident. Anyways, it decided to flower for me and I didn't cut it off. I didn't try to pollinate it and it's pretty much done with flowering anyway. Afterwards, it decided to divided for me and now has a new rosette of lovely leaves coming up. http://photobucket.com/albums/v234/McInew/Cephalotus/ I'm a little concerned because there is a spider weblike filament on the soil that looks a little like fungus gnat. I don't think it is fungus because humidity is very low here and the plant gets direct sunlight for about 4 hours a day. I will likely repot it next year by cutting open the pot so I don't damage anything. So, am I doing this right? Plant obtained from Jeremiah Harris.

Hello, I don't have a plant of my own but I have some experience at the Denver Botanic Gardens. I recommend the variety 'Jade Bowl' if your pot is only 12 inches. There are some other small varieties but I don't remember the names. Plant it in a shallow pot and position in so that the runners go in a circle around the pot. They can grow pretty fast in a year so you will have to divide if the pot is small unless you get a smaller variety. They are heavy feeders though, so I don't know how it will do in low nutrient soil. If you use lilytabs, that should keep the nutrients in the soil and out of the water. Use water hyacinth and Egeria densa to suck up extra nutrients from the water. It is important to keep the water very clear because in cultivation, I have noticed fungus growing on the tubers when they float in water. If the plants are in soil, that should help prevent the tubers from rotting. Good luck and if you have any more questions, I'll try to answer them.

I'm a little curious on the subject too. Unfortunately, enthusiasts and botanical institutions are in a zugzwag. The areas where T. peltatum grows are apparently in high turmoil and there is a good chance of getting hurt. I think botanical institutions should try to keep their plants alive as best they can. Meanwhile, we should try to collect as much information on the plant as possible, as well as maybe collecting seeds. But rather than let a single enthusiast, we should donate all materials including information of habit and habitat to as many botanical institutions, because A)They have the space B) They have the knowledge and facility to grow the plant. I have a few questions as my knowledge of the rare plant is limited to the books I've read. 1. How did the botanical institutions that have T. peltatum obtain them (By "digging up the plants" or by seed/cutting/etc.) 2. Newb question, Where does it grow specifically? Stupid me, just reread, Sierra Leone. But what area of SL does it grow in. I see that the UN has signed an Environmental Modification that includes Endangered species but it has not been ratified. 3. Are there any plants that were under a similar situation but are now common thanks to nuts like MACPs? Concerning climate, SL is very wet, hot and humid. There is a summer dry season and during the wet season, up to 495 cm can fall. Perhaps people in similar environments such as Borneo could have a better shot and growing the plant successfully. I remember a Nepenthes distributor some showed pictures of on the forum a while back. They were apparently very close to N. bicalcarata's habitat so the plant grew very well. I don't know whether a greenhouse can grow a N. bicalcarata as big as they can but I'm almost certain the plants enjoy growing outside in a similar environment to their natural habitat as opposed to a gh. Perhaps Borneo could provide the hot humid conditions probably required by T. peltatum.

Hello, I good while back, I got a U. sandersonii from CC. It had a few flowers and is currently doing a little bit of flowering now. A few months back, I saw a flower in there that wasn't sandersonii, it was clearly a common form of bisquamata. Another interesting thing is I get flowers that don't open up and form seed pods right away (cleistogamus?), so I think I have subulata in there too. The weird thing's that I don't have a bisquamata in the same room as the little bunny and I don't even own a subulata. The only plant that grows with the sandersonii is a P. moranensis and it doesn't have any utric in its pot. The only deduction is that there must have been contamination in CC's stock.

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Oh yeah, the DD I saw was in a terrarium. Just give it lots of light, it will have great colour.

The leaves are the traps. The pitchers may flop with old age. Someone with more experience than me can tell you if this is right.

They should grow as easily as most others. Dana's delight's leaves tends to flop over though

I found that we tend to think cps are more delicate than they really are. I used to stress about humidity but with my ceph, I just acclimatised it by removing one corner of a plastic bag every 2 weeks and then widening each hole. The only down side is it's on a windowsill and in the summer the window doesn't get direct sun. I hope in the winter the sill is warm enough for the pitchers to keep. Plants do not grow well in closed environments. The stagnant air is probably the biggest problem and then the light is important too, as I have experienced. I would just grow a ceph in a spacious pot with well draining soil and keep it at that.

I killed mine trying to take care of it! I think I put my plants out too early and we got hit with a mild 10F snowstorm and the thing kicked the bucket! There was a D. scorpioides in the pot and even that survived! However, I have a pot of older D. capensis that I let dry out completely for a week or two. The plants are just coming up.

Actually, I believe scottychaos clips all the leaves and puts them in the fridge and it works fine. http://home.petflytrap.com/users/scottycha...igatorpage.html

I reccomend adding a water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes). I do a little volunteer work at Denvers Garden and I have noticed U. gibba always manages to get between the roots of the plant. We have not added the U. gibba on purpose but it seems to propagate well while with this floater. Just be sure not to introduce water hyacinth to wild ponds in mild areas. We also grow water lettuce with the hyacinth, but oddly, I have only found the U. gibba in the roots of the water hyacinth. P.S. I don't know if they will flower with the water hyacinth but they propagate well. Also, I can use tap water as the hyacinth seems to 'soften' it. Perhaps because of its prolific nature?

Hey Dino! Do you think that will work here? I found my neps don't respond on a windowsill, so it's in the terrarium.

Ugh, can a mod just delete my stupid idea? clearly, this was astupid idea so I should just do the experiment myself. I didn't really want Pinguicula man (sorry pingman ) responding because I needed someone who used a more conventional setup. See, I don't have the capacity to use artificial lighting as my mom would smash the bulbs over my bed and pour water all over as she seems to find it verypleasurable to do so. I can't put them outside in full sun because Denver is a lot higher and we get full mountain sun, little overcast, dry weather, and little wind. I feel like a freaking idiot because I seem to make stupid posts that seems to magically stop people from posting. So can someone please just delete this? Thanks and sorry for bothering. I will just try it myself like Jenner instead of asking around like a fool.

Peter damato said cephs make intermediate leaves though only the pitchers are know to capture prey and absorb nutrition.

Hello, I've been thinking about how nematodes affect pings with not enough light and too much wetness. Since terrestrial utrics eat nematodes, would it be possible to keep pings far wetter than normal with their lenti cousins?

I think the same reason hardy waterlilies are grown at the edge whereas tropicals in the center.