Xavier

Hi Amar, I just found this in the previous posts: http://www.cpukforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14035 So yes, if it is possible in a pond, it should be possible in an aquarium. I think the trick is to choose bombproof fishes and CPs, as most fishes like pH 6 to 8 but some can live at pH between 5 and 9. So it is possible to find a common acceptable range of pH for the fish and the CP. It must also be tricky to keep the aquarium in a state of equilibrium as the fishes will produce nitrates (which CPs don't like) and nitrites and will change the pH of the aquarium. But the topic above shows it can be done. My two cents. Xavier

I must agree with everybody else. This bog garden is absolutely marvelous. Pure concentrated eye candy, and really inspirational (well, I wish I had a garden). Thank you for posting the pictures! Xavier

It's probably not going to be very useful for the experienced, but I thought that some of the newest members might like to see how a drosera seedling looks like. I think it facilitates the weeding process when you know what not to remove. These pictures show the seedlings with their cotyledons and emerging from the seed. This picture shows the first carnivorous leave. The seedling on the left is slightly late compared to the one on the right. I'm sorry about the quality, but they are so small that it's difficult to tell when they are in focus on a non DSLR. The small LCD screen just shows blocks of indistinct pixels. Not very useful. Xavier

I would be most honoured... or not. I don't really see how a name can be useful to a plant. "Long red traps" at least gives an idea of the appearance of the plant, Xavier certainly doesn't. It's all a bit messy anyway. I've got one VFT getting full sun outside. Half of it is a shade of dark burgundy, and the other half is only pinkish. Depending on when I take the picture I could then call it "prostrate dark red" (half in the sun after flowering), "pink long petiole" (if I do not let the clone in the shade flower). But it's just a bog standard VFT! Xavier

From the reports of a lot of people on the forum and from personal experience, the bog standard T8 is perfect for growing most CPs. I don't grow heliamphora but a lot of successful setups are just using T8s. From the dimensions of your terra, I would use between 2 or 4 T8s. A T8 is about 610mm long so it will fit inside without problem. If you have two or three reflective sides then 2 are enough (with just the one and a compact fluorescent bulb I have a Barry factor of 100%, see sarracenia.com for more info). Just don't buy the cheapest ballast as they tend to generate more heat. If you search through this section of the forum, you'll find a lot of people recommend T8s. As far as the type of light is concerned, cool white or a combination of cool and warm seems to be the concensus. Once more, go to sarracenia.com or search the forum and you should find all the information you want. I know I'm not the most successful CP grower, but I believe the info I gave you is correct. Xavier

Trev, The stem is very similar, but one of the buds was very different. Have a look at the pictures: Xavier

I have noticed an interesting flower in one of my VFT. That flower is from a flower stem that looks like two stems fused together (tissue damage at an early stage?). The stem is visible on some pictures I posted about a month ago. The first flower to open on this stem has got about double the amount of petals (I did not count them), has got two pistils (!!!) and only two small stamens on one side. It would seem that the next flowers are normal, as unlike that one, the buds have a normal size. I can post some pictures soon if anyone is interested. I can't say that it's pretty, but it's quite a big flower for a VFT. I'll try to polinise it to see if it's working, but I doubt it. It'd be interesting to see how it can develop the seed pods. Xavier

Is it actually capable of catching preys? Xavier

I find quite amusing how that flower is following the strongest light source. When I turned the pot, it changed direction. When it grew higher than the light, it started bending down. Now I guess it's quite stuck as closer would be too hot. I'll have to mind that. Xavier

Right. It seems I made the right choice: it was a flower. Is it bisquamata? Xavier

Well, not so lucky as it was obviously too big, but it had to fight for quite a long time before unsticking its legs. Xavier

Thank you Sheila, you answered the question I had in mind and so poorly tried to put on the screen. Xavier

There's been a bit of a misunderstanding, but nevermind...

Ok, done. 5 weeks to wait now... How do you pick up the ones that look like dust from the paper tough? :?: :?: :?: Xavier

Finally, I decided to expand the collection. I'm just getting a bit stressed now that I received the seeds. S. purpurea ssp purpurea 5 weeks cold stratification in wet paper towel inside foil in a non freezing part of the fridge. What about the mix after this. I will be able to prepare any mix containing peat, sand, grit, live sphagnum. Any good recipe? Should I do the same with S. minor var. okefenokeensis? Droseras I assume that rotundifolia, anglica and intermedia need cold stratification as well. But what about filiformis red? Are they fairly tolerant regarding the media (I'd like to test the different mixes I can make, but I wouldn't like to make a big mistake). I'm sorry, I know these are fairly basic questions, but I couldn't find all the answers by searching the past threads and the FAQ section. I guess I'm over panicking... please bear with me. :? Xavier

Thanks, Indeed that's interesting. It definitely shows that the internet isn't the most reliable place to look for information if you can't confirm it. I'll sow the seeds using the different techniques ans see what's the best for me. I'm glad to know I won't have to buy a pet elephant though. Xavier

Yes indeed. My wife told me I'd never be able to do it (the seeds are from her country), so I keep trying (and failing). I read that they often germinate after having been eaten by elephants, and I also read about using sulfuric acid as a treatment before germination (I also read that they don't need any treatment by the way...). Considering that the acide in the stomach is usually hydrochloric acid (unless elephants drink car batteries), I am now using hot water (around 40 degrees celcius) and just vinegar for the acidity as the pH seems more important than the acid itself. If it works, in about 300 years I'll have a nice bonsai (let's hope medecine makes headway within the next decade). Do you think I have a chance of making those seeds germinate? Xavier

That's just what I'm doing now. I got tired of cutting flower stalks after flower stalks last year. I'd rather have one flower than cut 5 or 6 stalks. I don't need the seeds, but I guess, if I get some, that'll give me a good training at germinating and taking care of seedlings. Xavier

A free online latin translator came back with: Problem solved. Xavier

I can't stand it anymore... That's how it looks now. Some other stalks are also growing. So much pressure... Xavier

Right, it may not be too late. That's my naughty urticularia. Is it cleistogamous? Cheers, Xavier

I read that the seeds of the invasive utricularias spread very easily. There is one flower stalk in one of my infested pot. How many days can I keep the flower before the seeds are ripe? I'd like to see the flower, even if it's really unimpresive, but obviously I'm not to keen on spreading the pest. I can't complain though. That pot turned out to have 7 D. spatulata (new seedlings still appearing), 1 D. capensis (hitchhicker appeared today), some very live sphagnum, and the pest. Xavier

I'm from London, about 50 meters from the A1 and 800 meters from the North circular. My CPs are lucky when they can catch some insects spared by the constant heavy traffic. Xavier

Blimey!!!!!!! That's a close up! What's your camera? I want one of them. Fantastic picture! Xavier

I'll definitely try to grow some then. Xavier