Richard

I would strongly reccomend against it. I have 2 mature D. regia and decided to take root cuttings from them. My one plant has hardly put on any growth all summer and I only removed a single root. The second plant died back all together. There has been no new growth from it but the root stock is still alive so i wait in hope for some new growth. As for the cuttings I got none of them to sprout. I have never been succesfull with root cuttings from this species.

Well done Vic! I told you it was a good clone! The only problem with it as you may have noticed is that the stems droop all over the place before the flowers open. Still a great flower though.

Hi Christian, I row U. praelonga and it flowers profusely every year! It is one of those plants that will not flower very well if disturbed. My plant has been in the same 5 1/2 inch half pot now for about 6 years. It looks so cramped that you wouldn't even think there was room for a single bladder in the pot! I grow it in pure sphagnum moss in full sunlight in my greenhouse. During the winter it is overwintered in my spare bedroom at a temp of about 6-7*c. Every year during early summer it starts to form hundreds of flower stems. In my plant they become top heavy and fall over so I get a fantastic dispaly of bright yellow flowers flowing all over my staging!

Is the red form of Drosera capensis of hybrid origin? It seems my plant is sterile. It will not produce seed, even if I cross pollinate the plant with a seperate capensis clone.

I am from Bewdley nearr Kidderminster in the west midlands. Just a hop, skip and a jump from the west mids safari park.

In order to get this sundew to colour up it needs as much sunlight as it can possibly get. My red capensis only manages to get lightly flushed with red. Mike king used to have an excellent blood red one. The more intense the sunlight, the better your plant will be.

It seems that this warm spell must have triggered our plants to start flowering again! ALL of my various purpurea ssp purpurea plants outdoors have started budding. I have removed all of them to conserve the plants energy.

Dongliang, My plant seems t flower very easily. It is kept in a goldfish bowl on an east facing windowsil. Just let the water evaporate. when it starts to get very low, about an inch or so from the peat at the bottom the plants seem to go crazy and start producing flowers. Don't get too excited though, the pictures of the flowers make them look quite large but they are onlya few mm across!

I bought a Sandersonii blue flower a few weeks ago. The flower was noticiably more blue than the typical flowered form.

Sooty mould seems to afect only plants that produce huge amounts of nectar. I get small amounts of it in autumn in various sarracenias and I had a very small amount on one of my Heliamphoras last year. It can be cleaned of with a sponge (a very sticky job!) but it does come back if the original cause of the sooty mould isn't eliminated. If your plants are outside are they in very congested solid clumps? Air movement through a multicrowned plant is restricted. If this is the case then next spring you may want to consider deviding and repotting. Think of all the spares you would have to swap for something new!