Jump to content

Yellowish Problem


3sgjeffery

Recommended Posts

Jeffery,

Were you growing the highland or lowland truncata form? If it was lowland, there should not have been a heat issue, with the highland...well, it seems it would be most certainly the heat. Ask for water, how much did you water? It seems that even in tropical conditions that it would dry enough for the plant to survive, seeing as they grow in similar conditions in the wild. Any how, sorry to hear of the loss, maybe you'll have better luck at some future time.

Best wishes and condolences,

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Truncata is more intermediate (both forms). Highland can grow as lowland and vice versa with roughly the same vigor. I've grown a HL in 90-105°+ for about 4 months, so it was certainly not the heat. Truncata is also one of the plants that likes it on the drier side, so its almost definitely the wetness of the soil. I don't see why this topic is still going when the problem was resolved a week ago :clapping:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Truncata is more intermediate (both forms). Highland can grow as lowland and vice versa with roughly the same vigor. I've grown a HL in 90-105°+ for about 4 months, so it was certainly not the heat. Truncata is also one of the plants that likes it on the drier side, so its almost definitely the wetness of the soil. I don't see why this topic is still going when the problem was resolved a week ago :clapping:

I've got a truncata (lowland I think) which just keeps plodding away slowly and steadily regardless of temperatures. My setup isn't ideal, and temperatures can range from as little as about eight degrees C on a cold winter night, to the mid forties or so on a hot summer day. But Truncata doesn't really seem to notice. The only thing is that if the sunlight's too bright and/or temps are too high, the pitchers don't last as long.

Cheers,

Tim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Truncata is more intermediate (both forms). Highland can grow as lowland and vice versa with roughly the same vigor. I've grown a HL in 90-105°+ for about 4 months, so it was certainly not the heat.

100% Agree, they are just different forms, the highland or lowland epithet is just irrelevant.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sheila, it is a stupid law. If spitting gum is the problem, then directly address to problem of spitting. Don't make criminals out of people not causing the problem. sheeesh! liberals... :D

I think it is a very good law, we should bring it in over here. People just spit it out on the pavement anywhere it is disgusting stuff. :dry:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, this looks much more familiar. Jeff, I had this exact same problem with my Bical a while back. For the ventrata, its a combination of factors, including the recent lack of sunlight and rise in humidity due to lots of rain. Ultimately, the media is too soggy and wet and the plant is not used to it. This plus the high humidity keeping the moisture in, plus the lack of light, is causing the problem with the ventrata. The heat may be a factor too, but it hasn't been that hot lately. Ultimately, I think the problem lies in the media just being too wet.

I'm not sure if that's the problem with the raff, but I'm suspecting that it is as well.

For myself, these days I've cut the watering of all my neps to 2-3 times a week to prevent this from happening to me like it did the previous rainy season and it seems to work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

The problem is almost certainly a fungal pathogen that is attacking the roots. If you don.t treat it you'll eventually lose the plant. Some orchids (especially paphs) suffer from the same problem. Buy a decent systemic fungicide, and make a mix at HALF the suggested dose. If you use full strength then you'll find that neps will become stunted as they don't like strong chemicals. Then they take forever to start growing again. Anyway, when you have made a mix, put the liquid in a small container and stand the nep. pot in it for a couple of minutes. DON'T leave it there or you will rot the roots. Then make up a fresh mix and spray the leaves. Then spray once a month. The new leaves will still have some white blotches on them but it will reduce each time and in a few months the leaves will be healthy and green again. This pathogen does pass from one plant to another, so if it's possible then seperate it. It's a good idea when you have found a good fungicide to spray a weak solution every 6 weeks or so to keep it at bay. I use a product by Bayer, but you'll have to see what's available. One other problem is you'll need to test any new product on a leaf of a plant that does not matter, in case the product you buy damages neps. A good course of treatment also keeps the dreaded scarlet edging away as well. Good luck, and do it in careful steps. Don't soak it in strong chemicals or you'll kill it. I did this to a Barone maxima.

cheers, Derek.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...