ifurita

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ifurita last won the day on August 3 2018

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  1. Hi everyone, I've got a problem with my Pings which has stumped me: there seem to be transparent bubbles inside the leaves of some of my Pings. Has anyone ever experienced this and/or know what causes it? I can't find any pests around and the leaf surface seems undamaged. Affected leaves can be used for propagation, though the plantlets which grow from them are affected too. Affected plants don't seem too healthy either and die after some time, though it can take quite long. Here are two pics of the problem: Thanks for any help!
  2. ifurita

    Drosera regia

    Probably someone living in a relatively warm area. I live in Singapore and D. regia simply refuses to grow, even in an air-con room(18-24C). Without cooling, its dead(roots too) in a day or two and with cooling it dies back(I'm assuming from shipping shock) and shoots come back from the roots...only to quickly die again within days. I wouldn't be surprised if the plant is a lot more forgiving in cooler conditions, but it certainly isn't so here. On that note, even D. capensis has great difficulty surviving here long term without cooling. The weedy ones here are D. spatulata, D. tokaiensis and D. binata. They get everywhere for me.
  3. Hi Vincent, You might have better luck trying out Cameron Highlands instead. I don't remember seeing too many Nepenthes over at Genting Highlands, but I do know that Cameron Highlands does have some nurseries which sell CPs, plus I know that wild Neps still grow at some areas, like at Gunung Brinchang(whether you can find them is another story). You can also try asking about it over at the Petpitcher Forums(www.petpitcher.com), its a Malaysian CP forum. It may be the best place to ask since many of the forum members are Malaysians. Recent activity there has been very low though, so you may not get any replies.[Mods, delete or modify this line if I'm not supposed to mention other plant forums here]
  4. Yup, the pitcher shape is normal, plus its pitchering on every leaf. Its been fairly hot and dry recently(~35C days) and the plant is still going strong.
  5. Just my 2 cents: I'm growing this one with day/night temps of 30+C/20C with RH of ~80% and very little air movement, yet It actually seems to like these conditions. Perhaps the high day temps are okay because of the large temp drop at night?
  6. Hi Mathias, Its been with me for only around 6 months now, got it at the World Orchid Conference(the irony) when it was held in Singapore last year. I'm growing it as a windowsil plant, so it gets Singapore temperatures during the day, but a drop to around 20+C at night. I felt it was a bit too risky to try growing it as a lowlander, at least until it get bigger. If I can get another at this year's garden festival, I intend to experiment and see if it can survive lowland.
  7. ifurita

    Coryanthes sp.

    She smells good! Fragrance is very strong.
  8. As I live in a tropical country, I've never really had any experience with how Pinguicula respond to low temperatures during the growing season. I've read that many can take Temps of below 10C while dormant, but can they take that kind of temperature during growth? I'm curious as to how the mexican Pinguicula would respond to low night temperatures during their growth period. I know that 30-35C days work with 20-25C nights. I'm wondering about the following situations: 30-35C days with 10-15C nights 30-35C days with below 10C nights 25-30C days with 10-15C nights 25-30C days with below 10C nights Thanks for any input!!
  9. A pervillei lower. Its small and the tendrils are long, so its not easy to find amid the whole mess... A pervillei upper The main plant itself is marked on the right, with two basals(is that the right term?) on its vine shown. You can see the pitchers on the left basal. Its just a small victory...but N. vieillardii finally produced a pitcher for me...after a YEAR! My very first flava pitcher!! Hope it stays alive! N. rigidifolia (formerly aptera)
  10. ifurita

    Coryanthes sp.

    Got this one at the local garden festival some time back. Strongly fragrant though somewhat plain in colour, it lasts only a few days. But at least it looks like a pitcher!
  11. I'm using peat and perlite for all my Amorphophallus, much the same as I do for CPs No experience with saurmatum, but I remember reading somewhere that A. titanum could grow over 6m tall and over 60kg for the tuber. I think A. gigas may be slightly taller, but not heavier.
  12. It may sound a bit silly, but can blue LED lights alone be used to grow CPs? I know that most LED light pannels use a mixture of blues and reds, but is it possible to just use blue alone with no other source of light? I did try to use blue T5s which seem to work with Neps, but they do get some light from various places in the room, especially another tank using a white T5s next to it which I can't move away, so it isn't exactly a fair test.
  13. I see. I have to say that the N. khasiana I've got is more colourful under blue lights. However, I share your doubts for N. lowii. That species not only didn't turn red, it died very quickly under my blue lights. Others like argentii and platychila seem okay.
  14. Hi Boris, Does this mean that using blue tubes instead of white tubes will result in more red colouration? The lights I'm using are T5 lights. I've been experimenting but many highland Neps can't take the heat from the lights(our normal day temps can go over 30C in the shade to begin with).
  15. Yup, I've experienced this too; pitchers given a lot of sun end up light green or light pink, while pitchers which are shaded somehow can become very deep red. globosa seems to pass this trait to some of its hybrids as well: it is the case with the pitchers on my globosa x rafflesiana hybrid.