Starchy

This is my first winter with Mexican pings (P. weser and P. esserianna), and I was just wondering if anyone had a picture of either or both of my pings while they had succulent leaves? My P. weser is starting to have more upright and pointed leaves, so I am fairly confident that it is becoming non-carnivorous. But the leaves still look the same. Here is how they look as of 1 week ago:

Anyone know where I could find this variety?

@ Marcus Do you germinate all your seeds (including other CPs) on damp paper towels? If so, at what point do you plant them in a medium? I have had a very difficult time germinating Drosera (using different mediums). I have a couple baby pings (P. weser and P. esseriana), but did not germinate them myself.

I you are worried about the stolons causing the pot to bulge, you may want to consider more of a tray-style pot. If the cosmetics of the pot do not matter, many use clean litter boxes, or similar containers. Darlingtonia roots don't usually grow too low, they just love to branch outward.

The best location I have for my VFTs is in an enclosed addition to the house I live in. The room has heat, but is rarely turned on. The entire north side of the room is window to window with a small counter, which would be perfect to put my VFTs for dormancy except the fact that it is north-facing. All my south-facing windows are in heated locations of the house. In this addition, there is a small east-facing window, but I am unsure if my 2 VFTs will fit on the smaller windowsill. My question is: what is the minimum photoperiod for a VFT in dormancy? flytrapcare says 8-10 hours is ideal, which I do not think would be possible on my north-facing window counter

First of all, thank you so much for your generosity. I am curious which types you have. I plan to get the ping as a gift to my girlfriend, so I am really only looking for a single plant that looks showy. I have a few hybrids in mind that I have been looking at: P. moranensis x ehlersiae or P. agnata x (moranensis x ehlersiae). I am also looking into P. moranensis 'A', P. agnata 'red leaf', and P. agnata 'scented flower'

I am looking to purchase my first ping, and am not 100% sure as to which type I should get. I want it to be a windowsill plant (zone 7). I read that tropical pings are good windowsill candidates. I was leaning towards pinguicula moranensis, but that was only based on an hour of research. My biggest problem is that every site that comes recommended seems to be out of stock. So I am also looking for a good site that ships to the US. Any help would be much appreciated.

Very nice photos! How do you make the background completely black in some of the photos?

Hello, I am glad to be a part of this forum! I kind of hopped right into posting in another thread before even introducing myself My name is Tim and I live in Massachusetts, USA about 15 minutes outside Boston. I have always had a love for VFTs, but never really followed growing them as a hobby. I recently visited Wilmington, NC this past May and went to view VFTs in their natural environment. I decided to take a souvenir home with me and purchased my first VFT from a death cube at the closest Lowes. From there, I began doing large amounts of research to make sure I was growing it correctly. I am currently reading 'The Savage Garden' by Peter D'Amata, which I would strongly recommend. In my search for CP knowledge, I stumbled across so much more than I had ever thought. I now have my typical VFT growing very healthy. I have also purchased a Jaws cultivar VFT, and am growing a few other CPs from seed: Drosera Capensis, Drosera Saptulata: Fraser Island, Drosera Indica and Darlingtonia Californica: Mountain variety. I also started growing from a cutting of live sphagnum moss. Currently my VFTs are in 2 separate pots and are grown outdoors, while all my seeds are germinating indoors under artificial lighting. I am in the works of setting up an automated watering system for my indoor plants. I will make a thread about it once I know it works. I am also a member of a couple other CP forums, so depending on the diversity of members on this forum, you may have seen me before (I always use the same name and avatar). Some more personal information about me: I graduated from UMASS Lowell, and recently switched careers to start fresh in pharmacy. I will be going back to school for my PharmD (hopefully at Mass College of Pharmacy). I am applying to accelerated schools now, and hope to be finished by 2016. I currently work as a pharmacy technician/intern at CVS. I plan to expand my CP gardens as soon as I have more time, and space for them. Ultimately, I want to have a large greenhouse for my CPs. EDIT: Since I am new to this forum, I do not really know all the features. Does anyone know if there is an easy way to view my recent posts so I can check to see if anyone commented/responded to them? I currently load up my profile, click posts, and check from there. I know you can click 'View New Content' on the top right to view all new posts. Just wondering if there was a way to only view new posts from threads I have participated in.

Fair enough.

I don't think there was a need to attack me directy ada. I was simply debating my interpretation of what designates a cultivar. My argument was focused from what designates a cultivar in VFT's, which is essentially a clone. I took the fact that registered VFT cultivars are next to impossible to cultivate from seed because of the many characteristics that would need to be present. Upon some reading, I did stumble across the fact that the cultivar Othello only has a single different trait. So I was wrong. But I really don't appreciate your post ada.

He says this because he is designating it as less than a cultivar. If what you said is an exact quote, than basically he is implying that a single allele designates the cultivar name, which is somewhat ridiculous (do having green eyes make you a specific human being?). If simply the lack of anthocyanin pigment is the sole characteristic of this cultivar, and it is a possible trait of the genus, than it is not a reason to name a separate cultivar. Because it would be more likely to replicate that characteristic from seed, but still not guaranteed. You would need to become more familiar with a punnet square method in addition to the hardy-weinburg (p^2+2pq+q^2) to consider the different traits that could exist. A good example would be an albino plant. If you take 2 albino plants, you are taking on a combination of 2 dominant alleles and 2 recessive alleles. You may not end up with an albino child, which is why seed can never guarantee to continue on a cultivar. In fact, it is less likely to happen than likely to happen.

Have you tried watering with refrigerated water during the warmer days? Usually Darlingtonia collapse from extended exposure to warmer than normal conditions. These plants prefer zone 8 (warm days - up to 95F, and cool nights - 65F and below during the growing season). I know some people actually use distilled water ice cubes on very warm days. In terms of getting Othello from seed, it would be extremely unlikely. It would be the equivalent of having a child that is identically to one of the parents. There are too many factors that come into play when sexual propagation is used rather than vegetative (dominant/co-dominant alleles, etc). The plant should have similar traits, but not be identical (in terms of DNA), not even considering mutations.

What soil medium are you using?