Guttata Posted March 1, 2017 Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 Hi everyone, I have a hamata clone 1 (from wistuba) for less than a year in highland tank (Peltier cooling http://www.forumcarnivore.org/viewtopic.php?t=26542)- day : 20/25 celsius degrees- night : 7/12 celsius degrees- hygro : 90/100%-2 * 50W grow led Hamata was growing very well after arrival for months until spots appeared on leaves. These leaves with traps died. New healthy leaves were produce but they currently having spots, Again !!! = brumisation + light ?= cold water (5 celsius degrees minimum) brumisation ?= fungus attack ? Other neps are fine. Thanks for your help. Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitefox Posted March 1, 2017 Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 It really looks like fungal damage to me, but I'm not sure of what species... ¿Isn't 5-7 Celsius (41~45 fahrenheit) too low for a non-ultra highland? My two clones have 16-18c (60~64f) nights and are growing quite fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guttata Posted March 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 Hi Whitefox,Thanks for your reply. I set the temperature around 11 degrees now. I have other nepenthes in the tank : inermis, dubia , glabrata, lowii, Flavia, jacquelinae, talangensis,..., and few heliam.I bought this for treatment :http://www.bayer-jardin.com/Products/m/Maladies-Rosiers--Pret--lemploiI searched for mycrobutanil but impossible to find it. Maybe the molecule has been forbidden.I also stop the brumisation with the cold water.Any other opinion / Advice ?ThanksEnvoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guttata Posted March 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 Hi,After few more researches i think i found the guilty fungus : cercospora. Few topics :https://www.terraforums.com/forums/tropical-pitcher-plants-nepenthes-/139058-damage-cold-disease-otherwise.html https://www.terraforums.com/forums/tropical-pitcher-plants-nepenthes-/136702-treating-nepenthes-leaf-rust.html https://www.michigansugar.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/Management-Guidelines-for-Controlling-Cercospora-Leafspot-in-Sugarbeets-2015.pdf Treatment + stopping brumisation (no more water on leaves for hours during nights) may help solving the problem. Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guttata Posted March 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 Hi there,Again and again... the healthy leaves are now infected.Any help please ?Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fltropical Posted March 24, 2017 Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 Sunburn?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guttata Posted March 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 Nop impossible. No sun, only artificial light. I moved the led to give shade to the hamataEnvoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fltropical Posted March 24, 2017 Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 Sorry to see what your plants are going through. I'll give you a more lengthy reponse. Cercispora is unlikely to be the problem. While I see some in that picture, that fungus is literally everywhere. Just about every plant that is vulnerable to it in the world is infected with it, but it is generally not a major problem. Healthy plants live with it, and only see blooms of it when something else, usually environmental, is wrong. Looking at the picture, it does look like some old sunburn is there on the older growth, or if this is a sudden change, I would wonder if the roots are compromised, and you are seeing leaf dieback as a result. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitefox Posted March 24, 2017 Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 LED can really burn leaves, it happened to me before with red and blue lamps when used too close, but it didn't look like that. They were reddish with some brown and dried zones. It's me or the new circles have a black spot in the middle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manders Posted March 25, 2017 Report Share Posted March 25, 2017 (edited) Looks like dead chloroplasts from the LED lighting. The temperatures were way to cold as well. Edited March 25, 2017 by manders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guttata Posted March 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2017 Hi,Thanks for the help. Minimum night temperature is now 13,5 degrees.I put a bag on it also yesterday.I will move the plant to a shady place in the terra. Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitefox Posted March 25, 2017 Report Share Posted March 25, 2017 (edited) Perhaps the water dropplets over the leaf worked as a lens an that is why the damage is so scattered? At least the new one on the top seems clean. Edited March 25, 2017 by Whitefox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iGude Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 I think another problem is the humidity! 90-100% ist just too much. Most highland Neps love 60-80% in the day and around 90 in the night. Is there any way for you to change the hymidity? I do not think that lighting causes the damage. Hamata turns red very very easily. Before the light would cause dying leafs and brown spots the leafs would turn red. My adavice: Reduce humidity and don't let the night temperature drop too far below 10°. Maybe even get them a bit more light. The pitchers are not fully colored up. Niklas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guttata Posted March 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 Hi, Thanks all for your help. I gave the hamata some shade because effictively he used to have coloured pitchers but also red leaves ! To quickly gain in temperature and reduce a bit the hygro I just add a silicon heater pad with a fan. All the other nepenthes are doing well :Exemple with dubia, inermis, Talangensis, Flava : So to remember for hamata :* avoid direct strong light* keep night temperature around 13celsius* no water droplet on leaves during hours Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitefox Posted March 30, 2017 Report Share Posted March 30, 2017 (edited) This is how my Hamata began to turn red after a few days under a LED that used lenses: (AW Clone 3) Next leaves were green again with the use of the old lamp. They also did leaf size jumps, probably because I also started to fertilize them in that period. Night temps are around 16-18C and ocassionally receive sunset light through the window (and filtered too by the transparent plastic walls of the mini tank I have built). Water condensates in the walls of the tank even if it is not properly sealed, the hygrometer always reads 99%. This is my other plant btw, it is a AW clone 1. Teeth is reduced in number but bigger in size (and it endured the excess of light better than the other plant): Edited March 30, 2017 by Whitefox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guttata Posted July 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 Hi everyone,My hamata still have this f*****g desease !!Here are the tank parameters :All others neps are growing very well.I have tried bayer anti fungical solution but no improvement.Help againEnvoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guttata Posted July 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 Hi everyone,My hamata still have this f*****g desease !!Here are the tank parameters :All others neps are growing very well.I have tried bayer anti fungical solution but no improvement.Help againEnvoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fltropical Posted July 29, 2017 Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 The new growth looks fine. If it was fungus, it's probably dead. What you see on the old leaves is essentially scarring - it won't go away.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guttata Posted July 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 Hi fltropical,Fact is that new leaves are always fine but spots appear progressively after few weeks.Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tropicat Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 If i look at a leaf with spots on them the base of the leaf, that is shaded by other leaves, is still green. N. hamata is different from most nepenthes, in that it really doesnt like a lot of light. Naturally it grows very shaded in closed mossy forrests. I don't know exactly what it is, but I would try to give it less light. temp and humidity seem good to me, if there is enough airflow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheechdrew1 Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 Hi, Guttata, looks like rust, get Clearys 3336 (for fungicide and rust) Rob Cantley uses it himself..... from online and use it label strength( about 1 tbl for one gallon of water) for rust. Spray the entire plant. It starts as brown spots under the leaves and works it way to the top of the leaf. In about 2 to 3 weeks the rust should go away. You have to trim all the infected plant away also. The rust travels through spores through moisture. In saying that, water on the leaves is a NO! Some nepenthes hate water on their leaves like hamatas ive noticed. About 75-80 F during the day and about 50 - 60 at night. Temp change for highlanders is very important for optimal growth. Humidity should be around 60 - 70% with a lot air flow. The air flow is very important. VERY IMPORTANT! Check the soil, meaning, take the whole plant out, carefully remove the old soil, and repot it so you can see the roots. Make sure the soil is 50-50 spagnum, and perlite or pumice. Coco fiber seems to mold for me so i would recomend it. As for light just make sure its not on for more than 10-12 hrs and a reasonable distance. Do exactly what I said and your plant should be back to normal. Also not sure but are you growing all your nepenthes in the same condition? If so do your reaearch because other nepenthes need different temps to thrive. Hope this helps let me know if there are any other questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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