Tropicat

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Tropicat last won the day on February 28

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  1. Tropicat

    Can anyone id this plant please

    I vote N. ventrata as well. for comparison:
  2. Tropicat

    Biggest red Dionaea traps

    Maybe this question has been asked before, but I was wondering: Does anyone know which red Dionaea variety has the biggest traps ?
  3. Tropicat

    Growing (highland) Nepenthes in the windowsill

    In my experience it takes a long time (1-2 years, some faster, than others) to get nepenthes acclimatised. After that, light is the most important factor, followed by temperature. The humidity here is always quite high. I keep my window open almost all of the year for good air movement. Because Holland is quite a humid country, it's always above 50%. Usually around 60-70. If it gets very low I use my humidifier. I have them in a south facing window, so the hottest window! When the temp goes above 30-35 C or if its a hot sun for a longer period of time, i close the curtain and use a lamp for light. I have noticed that neps can be severely damaged when they aren't acclimatised yet (leaves dont turn red, but immeidately get brown burnt spots), but once they are used to it, they can deal with quite a bit of sunshine (leaves slowly turn red; if they are too red, keep them out of the sun. I try to keep mine all green). Here is my N. hamata at the moment:
  4. Tropicat

    Growing (highland) Nepenthes in the windowsill

    I took 8 cuttings from my nepenthes Louisa and potted them up per experiment. Since I grow them in my windowsill (or outside) they are used to a lower humidity and room temperature (15-25 C). They even survived the heat wave outside!! Would anyone be interested in having one (or more?) This is the motherplant just after taking cuttings: And then 3 months later: Pitcher of the motherplant: These are some cuttings after 3 months, with new growth points:
  5. Tropicat

    Growing (highland) Nepenthes in the windowsill

    yeah my plants do pitcher more in the summer. I don't know if thats bcs of temperature or amount of light
  6. Tropicat

    Growing (highland) Nepenthes in the windowsill

    N. spectabilis I accidently left my N. Louisa out in the sun too long
  7. Tropicat

    Does anyone keep their sarracenia outside?

    I don't have a greenhouse, so they are all outside in pots, unprotected. Though the pitchers died off, they came through winter fine. They are producing huge new pitchers now that it is summer. Apparently -15C in winter isnt a problem!
  8. Tropicat

    Heliamphora nutans - to repot or not repot

    I'm growing heliamphora nutans in my windowsill. I stand them in a tiny bit of water and they are doing fine. The humidity is 50-70%. I think they will do better with higher humidity, but a low humidity doesn't kill them in my experience.
  9. In response to a different topic I decided to share a bit more about the Nepenthes i grow in my windowsill. I believe the 10C drop in the night is the most important condition to grow healthy plants in the windowsill. I achieve the 10C drop by keeping my winddow open at night. I close it during the day in the winter. My winter temps are 5-10C at night to 15-20 C during the day. In the summer it gets a bit tricky. We have had 30C during the day, so I leave the window open day and night. This way I can get 15-20 C in the night and 25-30 C during the day. Officially this is too hot for N. hamata and N. rajah. I planted my rajah in a very tall pot, and it seems to be doing fine in that. the hamata i planted in a big basket. This way it takes way longer for the soil to warm up, so this should keep the roots cool. I have done this with Louisa and ventrata as well, which seems to have had a good effect. If it really gets too hot, i put rainwater in plastic bags in the freezer, creating ice cubes. I then put these in the soil (not touching the plants). (I also have done this for my darlingtonia). I don't know if this makes a big difference, but it hasn't harmed them either. I try to keep humidity at a minimum of 50%, preferrably higher, but this is quite a challenge. I rarely get the humidity above 70%. Because my humidity is lower, I have difficulty getting my neps to pitcher. It takes them at least a year to acclimatize. After that they do actually pitcher in the lower humidity. My hamata and rajah are still too small, so we will see how they will do after a year. These are the neps i'm growing: N. hamata N. Louisa (I have taken some cuttings, which i put outside per experiment. N. Louisa is a lowland / intermediate. I noticed it is more difficult for me to grow lowland or intermediate. I had a N. hookeriana, but it was just too cold for it, so it died unfortunately.) N. rajah N. sanguinea (It was labeled sanguinea in the shop where I bought it, but I have some doubts about this) N. sibuyanensis N. spectabilis N. ventrata I see leaf jumps on all of them, so they are growing fine. However, they dont all pitcher. N. Louisa, N. spectabilis and N. ventrata are producing plenty of pitchers. N. sanguinea is producing pitchers, but not very impressive ones. The rest im hoping will start to produce pitchers later in the year for me. I do notice they produce their pitchers in the summer, so I suspect extra lighting will stimulate this as well. Unfortunately the growing light i used broke. I may buy a new one for the winter, or I'll just see how they do without. Not sure yet. I don't like to be too fussy about my plants or their care. I also don't mind experimenting with them and find their limits. I'm curious if other people grow (highland) neps in the windowsill and if you guys have tips? N. rajah N. hamata. I put microfiber around it to keep the humidity high. I put a lid from a yoghurt pot on the soil. I use that as a tray to poor water in. The microfiber soaks up the water, so that it's evendly distributed around the plant. It kind of is an experiment, we will see if it works in time. For some reason my N. ventrata decidedd to make 3 basal shoots. I just noticed this My N. 'sanguinea' also made a basal a few months ago.
  10. Tropicat

    Rust on the leaves?

    I cannot help you with advice, but it looks like a mold to me.
  11. Tropicat

    Second batch of pitchers in N. ?ventricosa

    Good point. I used a grow light before but it broke. From that moment i noticed my ventrata only pitchers in the summer too. So light is important too for this one. I open my window every night, so my night temp is 10-12 C and day temps about 20C. In the summer I have to be a bit more careful, puting my plants in the shade. We just had a hot week, so I put my N. Louisa outside (its over 1m high, i can't move it in the shade in my room that easy). Unfortunately i picked the wrong spot and the leaves got sunburn. It is recovering and starting to form pitchers to my surprise. N. ventrata and N. Louisa are my hybrids. I notice hybrids grow faster and form pitchers more easily. My N. hamata and N. rajah are still a bit small and unimpressive, but I will see if i can update some photos. I'll get back to that, maybe in a different topic
  12. Tropicat

    Second batch of pitchers in N. ?ventricosa

    N. ventrata is one of the first nepenthes i got, also from the gardeningcentre. When i brought it home it lost its first batch of pitchers. Often nepenthes need to get used to their new environment, esp when the growing conditions are different. Depending on the species of nepenthes this can take several months. The most important factor to growing nepenthes imo is the temperature drop between day and night. With a 10C difference, my nepenthes grow well even in lower humidity. In summer humidity is between 45% and 80%. In winter its 55%-90%. Im not to precise about it. In this way i grow N. Louisa, N. sanguinea, N. hamata, N. rajah, N. sibuyanensis, N. spectabilis and N. ventrata succesfully in my windowsil. Do make sure they dont burn in direct sunlight. If it gets too hot, i shade them a bit.
  13. Tropicat

    Red darlingtonia

    They have turned red!
  14. Tropicat

    Cephalotus vertical growing

    Inspired by others, I have been growing a cephalotus on a slope as well. It is still alive, but it doesnt do much. Hopefully it will grow larger this summer. I will update with photos later
  15. Tropicat

    Does anyone keep their sarracenia outside?

    Ok so it went down to -15C. The pitchers of my S. flava did die off from the cold, but the plant survived. It still had a few green pitchers before the frost. I think for plants in pots unprotected, this may be the lowest temp. I had a few divisions of the S. flava standing underneath a tree, a bit higher than the ground, they were completely unaffected by the cold. They are even starting to form new pitchers at the moment! My S. purpureas even did better, they had a bit of brown edges on the pitchers, and turned a bit lighter in colour, but other than that survived well!