Rez Posted June 9, 2008 Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 (edited) Hi there, This all looks very interesting and I am soaking all this information up, but one thing I am not clear on (being a newbie & all). When the roots show and you say 'you can cut it off', do you mean just the little bit that sticks out where you made the cut? I ask because in the instructions in the other link provided, the picture appears as though the whole stem is being sliced below the layer. Obviously you didn't mean that because you said you layer near the bottom, but I'm just unclear on where you actually chop it off? TIA Edited June 9, 2008 by Rez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueflytrap Posted June 9, 2008 Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 Steve, Many thanks. As was said earlier a photo is worth a thousand words! I've always had problems with the cuts healing over and it never really dawned on me to cut it like you do and to wedge it with sphagnum. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manders Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 Thanks for posting that stephen, i allways intended to try it and I guess ill give it a go now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gardenofeden Posted June 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 ...but one thing I am not clear on (being a newbie & all). When the roots show and you say 'you can cut it off', do you mean just the little bit that sticks out where you made the cut? I ask because in the instructions in the other link provided, the picture appears as though the whole stem is being sliced below the layer. Obviously you didn't mean that because you said you layer near the bottom, but I'm just unclear on where you actually chop it off? It means you cut right through the stem below the layer and repot this section. The old stem base will resprout. You then have 2 plants Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrAlmond Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 I'm used to chop my N.ventrata every year and I put the pieces that I've cut in pots with pure perlite...they always start to produce roots in a few weeks...I don't know if this method works also with more difficult nepenthes species. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rez Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 It means you cut right through the stem below the layer and repot this section. The old stem base will resprout. You then have 2 plants Oh right, so the little picture I saw on the link was right. Thanks for clearing that up for me, much appreciated. My next question is, how easy and successful is this? Would it be something that I (captain noob) could do? Thanks again for your great help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rez Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 I'm used to chop my N.ventrata every year and I put the pieces that I've cut in pots with pure perlite...they always start to produce roots in a few weeks...I don't know if this method works also with more difficult nepenthes species. Do you mean you literally just chop it? Without the air layer method mentioned here? Where do you chop it? TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrAlmond Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 Do you mean you literally just chop it? Without the air layer method mentioned here? Where do you chop it?TIA Usually I cut more or less a 40 cm long piece of the growing point (between two leaves)...nothing particular...and I place it in a pot filled with pure perlite. Then I keep the potted cutting in a shaded place always keeping the perlite moist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tranchette Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 very interesant!!! thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rez Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 Usually I cut more or less a 40 cm long piece of the growing point (between two leaves)...nothing particular...and I place it in a pot filled with pure perlite. Then I keep the potted cutting in a shaded place always keeping the perlite moist. Thank you for the information. Plenty for me to consider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gardenofeden Posted June 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 I don't have much luck with taking cuttings of Nepenthes, but I do find air layering works well for me. Mr A's technique sounds interesting so give it a try, but cuttings have never really worked for me, depends on your conditions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedro Batalha Posted October 5, 2008 Report Share Posted October 5, 2008 Great method! But I have one question... Is it possible to proceed this method more than once in the same stem, at the same time??? If so, then it is really superior then cutting, but if not, I suppose cutting is still the best way to reproduce neps (having many plants in mind for trading, for example)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gardenofeden Posted October 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2008 I have done more than one layering on a stem before, yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MPandini Posted October 7, 2008 Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 (edited) ... Several weeks later, you may see roots growing under the plastic, ... Hello, from Brazil! How many weeks to see the roots? I will try it just here... It's springtime in Brazil! Thank you for sharing! Edited October 14, 2008 by MPandini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cas Posted October 7, 2008 Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 Very nice Stephen.. thanks for sharing.. I'm going to try this on a couple of my plants tomorr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ahrens Posted November 14, 2008 Report Share Posted November 14, 2008 This is a very interesting article. I really struggle with ordinary Nep cuttings. I have been told that plants growing under lights are more difficult to strike from cuttings, maybe to do with the wavelength of the tubes, which are different to daylight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedro Batalha Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 A big THANK YOU to Gardenofeden, for allowing me to translate this topic into portuguese, and using the images, in order to post it at PCBR!! Here is the link to the new topic, for anyone who wishes to take a look (at the topic, or at the PCBR forum): http://www.forum.clickgratis.com.br/planta...4946.html#71521 See ya! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold3nku5h Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 (edited) I dont know if it was covered or not, but some things that may help... Im not sure how big the leaves are, but if you dont remove the leaf, it should root faster. If there is a substantial 'new' plant above where the roots come its unecessary. Also, if you were to imagine the circumfrence of the stem to be someones back, it would be best to scratch the hell of out them with your fingernails. Thats supposed to be a visual for a good way of air-layering, borrowed from air-layering tree's basically, you have a few scored area's and a few 'bridges' of the cambian layer to supply the top part of the plant. Edited April 17, 2009 by Gold3nku5h Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mags Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 Great post- I actually understand air-layering now ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gardenofeden Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 the photo links were broken and have been fixed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sue Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 I’ve been successful with air layering on other types of plant. A split match or cocktail stick is good for keeping the cut open. If using hormone rooting powder, only apply it to the cut and make sure it doesn’t get onto the leaf joint where the roots will grow from. It helps plants to root but will kill the roots if they come into contact with it. This rule applies to all other plants so I can’t see that it will not apply to Nepenthes too. With other types of plant, air-layering is usually done in spring/summer, does this apply to Nepenthes too or are they not fussy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxima Posted September 9, 2011 Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 Thank you very much! That was very useful for me as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel G Posted September 10, 2011 Report Share Posted September 10, 2011 I have a 3 or 4 foot nep with no pitchers at all. Hopefully if i do this the cuttings wil make a few pitchers for me instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RL7836 Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 (edited) I followed this procedure & air-layered my N. jamban that had started to vine. Not long after starting this procedure, the plant started two new basal shoots - originating from the potted root mass. After 4-5 weeks, I noticed that the main vine (the one I was air-layering) was completely black for the 1st 4-5" (even though it had added at least 3-4 new leaves following the procedure). The plant just up & aborted the primary vine after I started to work on it. I checked & there were no developing roots in the air-layered LFS. Lets hope the N. hamata, done at the same time, has more success.... ========= 13.06.12 edit - the N. hamata developed roots after ~5 months. Edited June 13, 2012 by RL7836 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrassLeaves Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 This is fantastic! I'm always looking for new methods of propagation. It seems like it would be more successful than cuttings as well. I've never tried this technique on anything other than woody trees, but nepenthes seems well suited for this. Thanks for the step-by-step guide, I'll be putting it into practice for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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