Spider mite treatment


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I was only reading on the forum a few days ago about spider mites and it made me think about a plant I have that seemed to just give up and die last week.  So I checked it and all my other plants and saw some leaves on other plants browning much as described for mite damage, then I saw a leaf with about 10 tiny red dots moving around!!  I`m not sure if reading about them made them come or just primed me to spot it.

 

I went looking for a mitiacide before they can do any real damage or make themselves at home.

 

I found this product http://www.diy.com/nav/garden/garden-care-watering/pest-weed-control/insect_control/Scotts-Bug-Clear-Ultra-Gun-1L-13328578.

 

It has the active ingredient Acetamiprid.

 

Just wondering if anyone has any experience using this chemical on their plants.  I will let people know how it does anyway.

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no prob won't help, you need proper miticide, not available in shops. Luckily "pot" growers have loads of mite problems so you can buy small amounts on ebay like this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-FLUID-OZ-OF-FLORAMITE-small-garden-size-FOR-SPIDERMITES-FREE-W-PIPETTE-/261527526619?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Garden_Plants_Weed_Pest_Control_CV&hash=item3ce4415cdb

you normally only need 1ml per litre so it lasts a long time.

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Im dealing with those same mites on the vft's. I hit them with both AVID and forbid with poor results. They were resistant to both. Those mites reproduce asexually so if you miss even one, they will flourish again.

This recipe is the one that did em in on the traps I had at home... You have to re apply every 4 days or so until you are confident they are gone.

Careful not to spray in full sun as it will burn the leaves.

1 litre water

2-3 cc Neem oil

few drops of Eucalyptus oil (for red-spider mite)

1 tbsp light mineral oil

5-6 drops dishwater detergent

Got this from opcs it worked fantastic and didnt fry the plants as those multilaminar pesticides will.

Edited by Nolpenthes
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Guest paul y

Quite a few people have found sb plant invigorator to be pretty damn good at controlling mites, as your in Bristol drive to greens horticulture ask for matt tell him paul sent you for some spider mite control and he will give you something that works.

If what he sorts you doesn't work then I have access to controlled mitacides and such, I can sort you something, once you have tried the "public" stuff first

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Have you thought about a biological control? It saves on having to re-apply stuff to plants and is very safe. Things like phytoseiulus are very good you can get them on amazon at a reasonable price 'here' or there are some on ebay. It is like a fire and forget missile.

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Problem with beneficial bugs is that they take time to populate and end up usually being cultured on beanstalk that has 2 spotted mites in order to keep populations up. They are a bit of a catch 22 ... percimillus are aight but are used in more 'Uncontrollable' situations with vast amounts of plant material to treat.

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Some generic dedicated miticides that are available in the United States (and hopefully in the UK, Australia and Europe) are: bifenthrin (Talstar is a brand name), avermectin (Avid is the brand name), fluvalinate (Mavrik brand), and dienochlor (Pentac, patent expired, now hard to find).

 

I have used Pentac (dienochlor) for years and it works very well for spider mites, although as another member mentioned, one must treat the mites at least several times, perhaps 3-6 days between each treatment, to kill all the mites including the ones just emerged from previously-laid eggs.

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Quite a few people have found sb plant invigorator to be pretty damn good at controlling mites, as your in Bristol drive to greens horticulture ask for matt tell him paul sent you for some spider mite control and he will give you something that works.

If what he sorts you doesn't work then I have access to controlled mitacides and such, I can sort you something, once you have tried the "public" stuff first

I second what Paul says about SB invigorator as the mites cannot become resistant to it plus you don't have to wear protective equipment to apply it. You do have to make sure the plant is thoroughly drenched with it though especially on the underside of the leaves for it to be totally effective and in my opinion reapply 3 days later as this is how long it takes this time of year for any eggs to hatch. It's important to get any spider mite infestation under control now as when the ambient temperature drops colder the female mites will seek refuge and go into hibernation ready to infest your plants next growing season. Finally one thing I should point out is it does contain Urea so always test spray a small area first before total application to be safe and always apply in the evening when it is cooler as some plants can show sensitivity in extreme temperatures. I can personally vouch it works well. Hope this helps:-)

Regards Matwag

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Yip, if you miss even 1 single mite they will come back. Infact when the mites get hit with most treatment they immediately begin asexually reproducing in order to maintain... that mix I posted earlier works very very well without 'nuking' the plant. All of the aforementioned pesticides penetrate the leaf and cause major stress. Which enduses even further problem. Biggest thing though which thankfully has been compounded into these suggestions is reapplication. There isnt a single mitacide avaiable commercial or not that will kill them all in one shot.

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Yip, if you miss even 1 single mite they will come back. Infact when the mites get hit with most treatment they immediately begin asexually reproducing in order to maintain... that mix I posted earlier works very very well without 'nuking' the plant. All of the aforementioned pesticides penetrate the leaf and cause major stress. Which enduses even further problem. Biggest thing though which thankfully has been compounded into these suggestions is reapplication. There isnt a single mitacide avaiable commercial or not that will kill them all in one shot.

I agree with most of what you say but I have never personally encountered leaf stress on CP's whilst using this product and it works amazingly well provided it's applied meticulously and at least on a weekly basis during the growing season. Having used commercial insecticides such as Torque in a nursery setting I'd go as far as saying it's so much more effective and doesn't carry the health risk of the commercial chemicals. Some of them are truly dangerous and I don't think they're worth the personal risk if you are growing just for pleasure.

Regards Matwag

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