Tuuagso Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 I have grown Cephalotus for a few years, and my plants are looking good and a lot of them are adult plants, they are big, but I want to ask to the ones who have flowering Cephalotus, How big is the pot where your plants are? How old are your plants? Do they need winter dormancy? I live in Mexico so winter is not so cold (I think), my plants almost always produce pitchers rather than non-carnivorous leaves. This one of my plants What should I do to get flowers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loligo1964 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 (edited) I have grown Cephalotus for a few years, and my plants are looking good and a lot of them are adult plants, they are big, but I want to ask to the ones who have flowering Cephalotus, How big is the pot where your plants are? How old are your plants? Do they need winter dormancy?I live in Mexico so winter is not so cold (I think), my plants almost always produce pitchers rather than non-carnivorous leaves. What should I do to get flowers? Nice plants . . . Most of my Cephalotus are in 15 cm pots -- some larger, some smaller. Flowering is not only a question of age and light exposure, but also of general health. Winter dormancy is unnecessary though some may disagree with that opinion. I have grown them successfully for years and the plants flower annually without any formal dormancy. Flowering maturity can take upwards of five years, though I have had seed-grown plants flower at three. I would keep the plants moist at best and not over-water them, a common problem which leads to crown rot and susceptibility to pests. Different strains vary in their production of the flat "vegetative" leaves; some produce a great many, while others few or none -- and produce pitchers all year long . . . Cephalotus follicularis -- Spring 2009 Edited January 19, 2010 by loligo1964 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobile Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 (edited) I obtained the one below two years ago. At the time it had 3 or 4 adult pitchers so it would have probably been a two year old leaf cuttings, making the plant approximately 5 years old now. It doesn't get a formal dormancy but growth does slow down in the winter. It sits on my kitchen windowsill so in winter it gets shorter days and colder nights. Last summer/autumn it flowered, you can see the stem at the back. It's in a 15cm (6") diameter x 23cm (9") tall pot. Edited January 19, 2010 by mobile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuuagso Posted January 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 Thank you very much! I think I'll take my Ceph to a bigger pot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimscott Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 I was conversing with John Hummer about "Hummer's Giant'. He stated that they do best when given a dormancy period. Whether that applies also to the straight up Cephs is another question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobile Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 I don't think that Cephalotus would get a dormancy in their natural environment, as it doesn't get particularly cold: http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/averages/tab...cw_009500.shtml Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mags Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) I don't think that Cephalotus would get a dormancy in their natural environment, as it doesn't get particularly cold: http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/averages/tab...cw_009500.shtml Their mean daily sun exposure (click on all available statistics) does vary and that would contribute to some form of dormancy perhaps? Edited January 20, 2010 by Mags Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loligo1964 Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 I was conversing with John Hummer about "Hummer's Giant'. He stated that they do best when given a dormancy period. Whether that applies also to the straight up Cephs is another question. I too have heard it mentioned that Cephalotus requires a dormancy; and since my plants are largely outside, they do experience a change in photoperiod over the course of the year -- but it is nothing remotely as extreme as what Sarracenia or Dionaea display. There is simply a slowing of growth . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RL7836 Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 I too have heard it mentioned that Cephalotus requires a dormancy; and since my plants are largely outside, they do experience a change in photoperiod over the course of the year -- but it is nothing remotely as extreme as what Sarracenia or Dionaea display.There is simply a slowing of growth . . . I suspect that the differences people are describing are between conditions similar to what you & Mobile lay out vs sitting in a terrarium year-round w/ no change in temps or photoperiod. Does anyone actually bag up a Ceph and stick it in the frig? Would it even survive?Mine tend to bloom when experiencing a seasonal change in photoperiod & temps but not when sitting in a terrarium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobile Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 Does anyone actually bag up a Ceph and stick it in the frig? Would it even survive? I've never tried it. I can see why people may want to do this with VFT and Sarracenia, as they have a cold winter in their natural habitat, but Cephalotus do not experience this in habitat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuuagso Posted January 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 I've never tried it. I can see why people may want to do this with VFT and Sarracenia, as they have a cold winter in their natural habitat, but Cephalotus do not experience this in habitat. I would not do that neither with my Ceph, I live in Mexico so winter is not really cold, but if I don't do it with my VFT of course I won't do it with my Ceph. I think changes in the photoperiod and temperature are enough to make the plant 'realize' whether it's summer or winter. As I said before, I will just use a bigger pot so roots can grow appropriately, I don't think any Cephalotus is able to flourish in a small pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuuagso Posted April 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 (edited) Hey I've got good news! I guess my theory was right, few months ago I transplanted one of my biggest plants into a bigger pot and I treated it really well. And now I've got this: This is the same plant, but it has another stem on the other side And this is another plant that is also blooming Now I have 3 flower stalks and I'm so happy, I wish I'll have seeds as well Edited April 1, 2010 by Tuuagso Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loligo1964 Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 (edited) Congratulations! Very nice plants, indeed. A couple of mine look like they're beginning to produce flower stalks; though, in years past, they arrived in late Summer in California (around August) . . . Edited April 1, 2010 by loligo1964 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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