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Iggy

D.hartmeyerorum

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Hello ,

I 've bought a pot with D.sessilifolia on the EEE in Bonn 2006.

One year after the event I saw one red seedling in the pot ( and it looked like a red D.indica :? )

After a few weeks I saw the yellow spots on this plant and since then I know it must be D.hartmeyerorum. :read:

I grow it together with my petiolaris-complex sundews. They seems to like it really hot!!

I had never the change to make a clear picture from the flowers,but today I was lucky to see one open.

Here are some pictures :

dhartmeyerorum5nj1.jpg

dhartmeyerorum3zp3.jpg

dhartmeyerorum4yx5.jpg

dhartmeyerorum6aa0.jpg

dhartmeyerorum2wr2.jpg

I really like the red sepals in contrast with the pink petals!!

Hope you like them..

Iggy

Edited by Iggy

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Hi Iggi ,:D

your D.hartmeyerorum is very nice ... :read:

Me too , I have seedling of this specie and I 'm very impatient to see they at maturity .

Do you have advices to cultivate this plant or it's a easy specie?

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Ok, for those of us not "in the know" - what's the deal with the yellow blobs? Lures?

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The yellow spheres are called trichomes which I feel add pleasingly to this species and I am not sure what exactly they do. if anything!.. I got some seed from Sheila and her wonderful technicolour seed bank but not one came up unfortunately. Lets hope I can get some seed in future! :read:

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Hi Iggy,

aha, there is your wonderful D. hartmeyerrorum. Really very nice plant. :D

And what a surprise that you have not sown it yourself, you are a very lucky man. :wink:

Best regards,

Dani

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Hello Iggy, I can confirm your observation that seeds of D. hartmeyerorum germinate never all at once, and some may need a year or even more. Even if some seeds germinated after 6-8 weeks, several more will germinate after an artificial dry-period of 2-4 months (bone dry) when the soil becomes wet again. If you don't want to loose the seedlings they need protein. If no living springtails are around, crushed fishfood flocks applied with a tweezers with magnifier will work well. Here is a photo of a plant which is about six month old.

Hartmeyerorum.JPG

More information and photos can be found on our website: Microscope images

The function of the lensheaded tentacles is described on our DVD "Drosera: Snap-Tentacles And Runway Lights" which is still available for FREE DOWNLOAD at EZTV: Hartmeyer Downloads EZTV

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Hello Siggi and others,

Thanks for your comments.

Thanks for your reply !! also for the "bone dry " hint.

I will try it with a few pots.

About the extra protein : I use dried mosquito larvas for a year and the results are amazing.

Certainly for seedlings,but I 've seen that the right portion is very important!! ( NOT TOO MUCH )

I soak them in rainwater for 5 minutes and then start the "food-tour" for all the seedlings.

( what do you mean with fishfood flocks? I've seen many different brands with mostly "funky coloured" flocks :yes: ??

I found that the only problem is fungoid on the leaves when the air is too humid. So I don't

use them for my terrarium !! Only the young plants in the greenhouse and under the artificial light ( shelves )get

some extra food. ( Humidity between 25 and 60% works perfect )

@Jimothy : Download the fantastic "free" DVD and you will know everything about the "yellow blobs" :dance:

@Greg : I hope for more flowers!! :wink:

@mat jak : They like it HOT ,but the best advice = Siggi :yes:

Cheers,

Iggy

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What exactly did you provide for it? I had a plant do seeming well for a few months and then it died. Don't know why. I had it room temp, open tray, sand & peat mix, under artificial lighting.

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Hi Iggy

Try lowering the ISO in your pics, they will get a lot less grainy and the pics will look even better :thumbsup:

Thanks for the tip :wink: !!! I'll try it next time!!

Iggy

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i have brought seeds out even today and i have expected that they look like seeds from D. indica (because the plant look like indica) but they are much smaller:- and now, i havn't good seen this seeds and brought on one pot too few and on one pot too much seeds...

i think they are (what is the english word for "unumtopfbar"? :wink: ) not fit too plant adult plants in other pots(like it is by D. indica) - is it so?

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Repotting is no problem if you dig out the seedling or plant including a remaining portion of soil around the roots. It is even possible to make head cuttings (just like with D. indica), which you simply stick into the soil. Roots develop soon IF THE CONDITIONS ARE RIGHT: Very much light, high temperatures, protein and a fan for air-movement is recommended.

Iggy, until now I found no fishfood-flocks brand that does not work. I use them (crushed) instead of dried larvae (wich I did before) because the plant absorbs them completly and no remains stick to the leaves. What kind of protein is in my opinion a question of taste, but you are very right: NEVER TOO MUCH!

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Repotting is no problem if you dig out the seedling or plant including a remaining portion of soil around the roots. It is even possible to make head cuttings (just like with D. indica), which you simply stick into the soil. Roots develop soon IF THE CONDITIONS ARE RIGHT: Very much light, high temperatures, protein and a fan for air-movement is recommended.

Oh, good - thanks! :yes:

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In spring 2006 and in spring 2007 ive led grow up my indicaseeds in compressed peat pots (presstorftöpfen) in a substrat consist 2/3 orchidsubstrat (consist pinonesrind, dried sphagnum, "growcubes", perlite and a "startfertilizer"), a half third peat and a half third quartzsand:- This all unmixed - at the bottom of the pot this 2/3 orchidsubstrat hereon the peat hereon the sand. And it grew without feeding, peratventure because of the "startfertilizer".

What you think about, is this an optional for D. hartmeyerorum?

Edited by nay_my_lord

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In spring 2006 and in spring 2007 ive led grow up my indicaseeds in compressed peat pots (presstorftöpfen) in a substrat consist 2/3 orchidsubstrat (consist pinonesrind, dried sphagnum, "growcubes", perlite and a "startfertilizer"), a half third peat and a half third quartzsand:- This all unmixed - at the bottom of the pot this 2/3 orchidsubstrat hereon the peat hereon the sand. And it grew without feeding, peratventure because of the "startfertilizer".

What you think about, is this an optional for D. hartmeyerorum?

Well, everything that works is ok. Adding fertilizer is certainly much simpler than feeding, however, be careful

because a little too much fertilizer and it becomes dangerous for all seedlings inside the pot.

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sorry for the offtopic, but can fishfood-flocks be applied to all Drosera to feed them? or only a certain type and only the small plants?

i've got quite some drosera indoors which don't have lots of prey...

Thanks!

ps: iggy: gek plantje! als je er over hebt ;) :(

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Fishfood flocks are applicable for ALL PLANTS which need protein, no matter if small, adult, if Drosera or Drosophyllum.

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Hi all...I don't understand what is "fishfood flocks"...I've searched the net but no results...is it normal fish food?

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Hi all...I don't understand what is "fishfood flocks"...I've searched the net but no results...is it normal fish food?

A typo for 'fishfood flakes', maybe?

Steve

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Well, flakes is certainly ok, sorry for using "flocks", oops my English :wink: ! The Italian translation is "Mangime in fiocchi", in French "aliment complet en flocons" and in German "Flockenfutter".

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Hallo!

In my pots where i have seeded the d. hartmeyerorum seeds grow nothing:- Hard!

But actually is this not so a big problem because i have seeded just 1/3 of my seeds:- But now i wanna make it better with the next portion.

I have stand the pots in congestion and above of them i have a foil, so the soil is very wet all the time:- is this good so?

Edited by nay_my_lord

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Well, flakes is certainly ok, sorry for using "flocks", oops my English :smile: ! The Italian translation is "Mangime in fiocchi", in French "aliment complet en flocons" and in German "Flockenfutter".

Hi Siggy!

Sorry but I didn't see your answer when you posted it...Thank you for the clarification! :-)

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