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Found 14 results

  1. Hi everybody! Has anybody experienced dormancy in a Drosera 'Watari'? Mine flowered one month after I got it in September last year, and a while after that it started to decline, and lost all leaves in winter. At the same time temperatures started to get lower, so I don't know if the decline was due to flowering, the temperature drop, or the light period (14 hours in spring and autumn, 12 hours in winter). I thought it had died, but kept it moist during winter just in case, and now it is developing new leaves. It is growing indoors in a grow rack with natural light supplemented with LED lights. Temperatures are now 23°C during the day and 20°C at night. When it started to decline temperatures were like 3-5°C lower during day and night. Humidity is around 60-70%. Below is a picture of the plant around the time it started flowering. Any idea what could have triggered this dormancy period and if it can be avoided (for instance, not letting it develop flowers)? Thanks, Patricia
  2. fly

    Opinions please!

    Hi Everyone, I haven't been on this forum since we used our CPs as our wedding centrepieces ten years go! Glad to se it is still going strong :) I would be very grateful for everyone's opinions - I have always taken off the dead growth on my Sarras by removing the whole pitcher at the base. They basically peel off from the stem. Is this the best way or do people just trim them right down instead? I have seen professional growers who cut their whole collections right back so there's nothing to see when dormant - do you guys do this and if so when is the best time? We moved our whole collection into a polytunnel last year and they have flourished, so this year's job of cleaning up and splitting is going to take some time! any opinions appreciated, thank you :)
  3. Username

    Do I trim?

    So I have two sarracenia that I'm keeping outside: S. Stevensii S. oreophila x purpurea I've grown them outside since I got them in May, and in October I removed their water trays for dormancy and otherwise left them there near a low wall. As I imagine most of you know, temperature-wise we've had a really mild winter. Aside from frost a couple of weeks ago I think, it's not dipped below 0. I went to check on my plants today, and while all the pitchers have actually begun to die back now there's still a lot of colour there from ones that haven't died fully back. Also, there are a lot of holes from something munching on them! I remember reading some time back, years ago back when I got my first one, that you're meant to trim them back when they start to die. Should I move them away so the munching thing can't get them? And should I trim them all down to the base? Thanks!
  4. I have a sarra (specific type unknown, but not a purp judging by the tall straight pitchers) that I put on my windowsill some months ago. The ones in my greenhouse are all showing signs of entering dormancy, but this one is putting out quite a lot of new leaves. Do I leave it indoors for a while longer, or put it in the greenhouse, even though this means stunting all these new leaves?
  5. Hi every Darl grower, As I have to remove plants from outside for the wintertime (Swiss mountains, 1000 m asl), I don't have enough place to store them all (adult and seedling) in a frost-free veranda window. So many might end up in bottom shelves in the said veranda, in real low light (darkness indeed). As the plants would be dormant, do you think it is ok, or do they DEMAND light anyway? Thanks a lot for your opinions and answers, OL
  6. Hi all First post here! Couldn't find an answer to this anywhere so thought I'd ask opinions here. I am presently building a raised bog garden after having had a few tub/ planter style ones on the edge of a pond. My question is specifically around mulching over winter if I were to grow some of the more borderline hardiness plants in it (VFTs, Sarracenia psittacina etc.). I get a regular meat delivery and this is packaged with an insulating product called Woolcool (https://www.woolcool.com/food/whats-being-said/) and I was hoping someone might be able to tell if this would work to cover the bog? Its basically long sheets of natural wool in a biodegradable plastic liner. The sheets of wool can be removed from the plastic too if pure wool would be a better option. I was thinking of keeping it slightly raised above the plants using a frame of some sort to give some airflow but for it to keep the worst of the frost etc. off? Any thoughts welcome and thanks for any advice! Ben
  7. Hi there everyone, I've just joined CPUK recently, and have grown cp's including temperate drosera for about 5 years, however I had to stop for a couple of years until this January. I live in Scotland, my greenhouse minimum temperature is set to 10°C and gets up to around 15°C during the day. I'll be receiving three drosera regia plants soon, and have read the entries on regia in Slack's 1979 and D'Amato's 'Savage Garden along with many of the posts in this forum. What I'm unsure of and would like some advice on from those who have had success in cultivating this species, is how to treat the plant over it's winter period. Some people have been saying that they keep the plant just moist over winter, while others keep it hot and with high water levels throughout the year, giving it no winter resting period at all. When I looked up the conditions in the plant's natural habitat (Wellington, South Africa), it seems that winter there (June to October) has high rainfall, so I can only assume that while I keep this plant in it's winter resting phase at 10-15°C (same as natural habitat), I should keep the pot sat in a few centimetres of water? If you're about to argue that those conditions don't occur in regia's natural habitat, please just look it up before you say anything (unless I'm as thick as two short planks and can't read simple weather data, in which case please correct me), I've attached a link below so you don't even have to do that yourself ;) http://www.worldweatheronline.com/Wellington-weather-averages/Western-Cape/ZA.aspx I'd really appreciate some help with this, as drosera regia is a plant I have longed to grow for years so I would really like to do it right, and not kill what will be my new favourite plant! Many thanks in advance :) David
  8. Hello, As my regular reader will know, I only really got into this hobby in the spring, so this will be my first winter with CPs, and I'm unsure what to do. I have read too many conflicting ideas about which plants go dormant and which don't, and would like some advice. First off, here is my modest grow list... Dionaea Muscipula Dionaea Muscipula Dionaea Muscipula Dentate form Dionaea Muscipula Microdent Dionaea Muscipula 'Red-green' Dionaea Muscipula Sawtooth Drosera Aliciae Drosera Binata Drosera Capensis Drosera Capensis 'Narrow Form' Drosera Madagascariensis Drosera Nidiformis Drosera Spatulata Heliamphora heterodoxa x minor Nepenthes Bloody Mary = Nepenthes Ventricosa x Ampullaria Nepenthes Ventrata (Alata x Ventricosa) Sarracenia ´Kateřina´ Sarracenia 'Chelsonii' = Sarracenia Purpurea x Rubra Sarracenia flava var. cuprea x purpurea ssp. purpurea Sarracenia Maroon (hybrid involving Purpurea) Sarracenia minor Sarracenia Purpurea ssp Venosa Utricularia Longifolia Do all of these need dormancy? I'm fairly sure the VFTs do, and always thought Drosera did as well, but I was reading The Savage Garden last night, and he said that with few exceptions, the rosetted subtropical ones (which includes aliciae and spatulata) don't. I've also heard that some Sarracenia don't. Is this true? If so, which ones? Please can anyone clarify which of the plants listed above do and don't require dormancy. Assuming we've got that sorted, I understand that when the plant shows signs of going into dormancy, I move it somewhere cold, but protected from frost. We have an unheated room at the back of the house which I guess would be fine for this. I can put them there, and keep them moist but not standing in water. Is that correct? For the ones that don't go dormant, do I just leave them where they are? They are all currently on my dining room windowsill. Finally, I am about to experiment with artificial lighting. I presume the dormant ones won't be involved in this, as they will be out in the cold, but what do I do about the others? I guess I reduce the photoperiod to match the length of the day, but do I reduce the wattage as well, or leave that as it is? Sorry to ask so many questions, but this is a whole new part of this hobby, and I don't want lose what I've built up over the past few months. Thanks for any help you can.
  9. Hey all! I was thinking today about how amazing the flowers of Dicentra were. I used to grow them, but our family has moved and I've not picked it back up since. However, I was thinking about the short blooming time of these plants and thought about how nice it would be to have blooms year round. My thoughts: there are dwarf varieties that only grow to be about 9-12" wide, so I could grow these in tall 15" pots. Let them grow and bloom, and then move them to much lower light, watering schedule, and temp (40-50 F) for a month or so to trigger the dormancy. Then bare root and fridge them for 2-3 months. Then bring out the ones that have been sitting in the fridge while the other plants have been in bloom and plant them in fertilized soil with excellent drainage. Wash-Rinse-Repeat. :) I'm not sure how much experience people have with caring for perennials like this, but do you all think that this would work? I figure there is no surefire way to know until you try, but I figured I'd run it by some more experienced growers before I gave it a shot. Also, I could give them a longer dormancy by having three or even four groups in the cycle. How long do you think they need to be dormant to be healthy? I have read about forcing bleeding hearts, but I couldn't find anything about out-of-season growing on a long term scale. Also, having different varieties cycling in and out of dormancy would always keep it interesting! :) Let me know what you think! Chance
  10. Hi everybody, I posted the question below in the ping section....perhaps should have tried here first. Thanks.... Hi, does anybody growing Mexican pings in the UK have succulent leaves on their plants yet? Mine still only have their carnivorous leaves. I've got them in my greenhouse in a propogator with temperatures down to about 10C over night. I put a cover over them at night to block the light from T5 lights on my other plants so they're only getting about 8 hours of daylight now. I haven't watered them for a while but the compost is still fairly moist. What are the triggers for dormancy/growing succulent leaves? Temperature? Light? Is there anything I can do to encourage dormancy. Thanks in advance, any advice is appreciated.
  11. Hi, does anybody growing Mexican pings in the UK have succulent leaves on their plants yet? Mine still only have their carnivorous leaves. I've got them in my greenhouse in a propogator with temperatures down to about 10C over night. I put a cover over them at night to block the light from T5 lights on my other plants so they're only getting about 8 hours of daylight now. I haven't watered them for a while but the compost is still fairly moist. What are the triggers for dormancy/growing succulent leaves? Temperature? Light? Is there anything I can do to encourage dormancy. Thanks in advance, any advice is appreciated.
  12. Hey guys, just joined because you guys really seem to know your plants. This is my second year with sarracenia, had to do a reboot this spring because my plants died in the winter, and i'd like to avoid that this year. I got some ideas from other posts and was hoping for advise. I think my main problem is wind and prolonged freezing. My main idea is to first replant them in a bog to give them more insulation. The bog would be made out of one of two bins (20 x 20 x 40 or 30 x 25 x 50 cm). Next im thinking a "cold frame" out of a overturned opaque bucket with a fist sized vent, either submerged or not. The cold frame is about +10F than outside unsubmerged but has a much higher humidity. Any thoughts are much appreciated. I am currently in long Island NY
  13. Hi, could anybody advise on how to care for my Utrics properly through the winter. They were all bought this year so it's the 1st winter and I'm not too sure what's the best conditions for them. should I expect/encourage dormancy? In particular I'm not too sure what to do with U longifolia (I read somewhere it should dry out and rest through the winter), U alpina (also read it should dry out), U nelumbifolia & finally U quelchii x humboldtii. I divided the longifolia bought earlier in the year so some are in LFS/perlite others in peat/sand currently quite wet but not standing in water. They're in a greenhouse that I'm hoping to keep above freezing. Some are in heated propogators (set at 15C) whilst others are just on the greenhouse staging with bubble wrap over them. I took a couple more inside (central heated but covered for humidity). U alpina, in LFS, again in the heated propogator in the greenhouse. I have T5 lights coming on for an hour in the morning and 3 hours in the evening, just daylight for the rest of the day. Total including daylight = 13.5 hours. U nelumbifolia & U quelchii x humboldtii, in LFS, under T5 lights (as alpina above), nelumbifolia is in 2 inches of water, quelchii x humboldtii moist but not stood in water, both in the heated propogator. I noticed the nelumbifolia leaves have started going quite pale over the last week or so. U quelchii x humboldtii is a recent acquisition and has thrown up 3 new leaves in the last couple of weeks. Sorry a lot of details there. Do you think my conditions are OK or is there something else I could try, also is how I keep them through the winter likely to encourage/discourage flowering next year. Hope you can help. Many thanks for any help offered. Regards Gaz
  14. Hi all, I'm looking for winter care advice for my new N maxima, I live in Derbyshire in the UK so this question will be mostly aimed at any Nep growers in the UK Midlands I guess but all advice, no matter where you live, will be gratefully received. My wife bought me the nice N maxima for a birthday present this year and it has grown really well during the summer. I understand it is a highland variety. As this is my first Nep I'm not sure what will be the best way to get it through the winter. I've done a bit of reading up but you can't beat advice from more experienced growers. Here in Derbyshire we can expect some sub-zero temperatures and mid-winter daylight is down to about 8 hours or so. I've added some heating to the greenhouse and I'm hoping to be able to keep it at a minimum of somewhere between 6-10 degrees C. I also have a couple of heated propogators for the smaller plants (Drosera, Pings, Utrics etc) but nothing similar into which the N. Maxima could fit so it will be sat on the greenhouse staging. Will this be adequate or do I need to bring the plant into the house for winter? What minimum temperature can it stand? Do I need to put it under artificial light? Does this species have any dormancy requirements? Thanks in advance for any advice you have. Cheers Gaz