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  1. Hi folks, Maybe this video will be of interest to those who are new to sarracenia. Thanks for watching. https://youtu.be/lVVW7urkU0Y
  2. Hi everyone, It's about time (well, in a few months, in early spring) to repot my Sarracenia, and I'm wondering what is best to mix with peat: sand or perlite? Did anybody compare these 2? I'm particularly interested in long-term experience, as I don't want to repot too often. Thanks
  3. From the album: Sarracenia

    LE08 Sarracenia leucophylla, Dark red. YV LE06 2009, CK.
  4. From the album: Sarracenia

    LE08 Sarracenia leucophylla, Dark red. YV LE06 2009, CK.
  5. From the album: Sarracenia

    FL10 Sarracenia flava ssp. atropurpurea Blackwater River State Forest; Florida. RvL FL18 2008, MK F27B 2003, P.Wilson
  6. Having started my Carnivorous Plant journey (some ten years ago) by growing a handful of plants outdoors (due to lack of a greenhouse at the time), I've now returned to displaying a few plants outside; in a couple of newly set up bogs... A Darlingtonia haven on the left, and a mixed species bog on the right: The Darlingtonia are in a very watery/soupy mix of pure Sphagnum & rain water, and has a solar-powered airstone at the bottom to create a bit of oxygenation - in full sun the water really bubbles away! The Belfast sink bog, consists of S. × 'Maxima', S. purpurea venosa, S. × harperi, S. oreophila 'Purple Throat', Dionaea muscipula (seed grown myself), Dionaea muscipula 'Akai Ryu', Drosera capensis 'Alba', Pinguicula grandiflora & Utricularia dichotoma. It is a sphagnum, peat & sand mix with a blanket of sphagnum on the surface. It will be interesting to see these progress over the year(s), especially the Belfast sink, which should fill in nicely with D. capensis seedlings, P. grandiflora gemmae and the spreading U. dichotoma (providing it doesn't completely die off during the winter!)
  7. A few photos of plants from today. With the poor weather we're having things haven't moved on much recently and plants haven't yet got their best colour. Anyway, I'll start off with a few tall flavas the tallest being 91cm ATM. From left to right they are: S. flava, Dahlia Bog, VA (MK F5) S. flava, 120cm+ (Christian Klein) S. flava, Very large form, NC,WS(PW) (MK F32) S. flava, very large form, NC (Dennis Balsdon) (same as MK F32?) S. flava, Red lip, column and throat (ipF19) 6 rubricorporas in the next 3 photos: S. flava var. rubricorpora, Giant red tube, Apalachicola (MK F21) S. flava var. rubricorpora, Cv. 'Burgundy' ex. J. Ainsworth (P & J Plants), since renamed I believe S. flava var. rubricorpora, Sumatra, F4 WC N. Florida (Hampshire Carnivorous Plants) S. flava var. rubricorpora, Sumatra, F42 WC N. Florida (Hampshire Carnivorous Plants) S. flava var. rubricorpora S. flava var. rubricorpora, 'Burgundy' (MK F26) Tarnok flowers S. leucophylla, Hurricane Creek White, AL BB 2007 (MK L58B) Darlingtonia flowers outside Some mooreis in their first year with me doing well S. x moorei, "Esme Cowlard" (L18 x F18) 2003 cross (MK H192) S. x moorei, "Elizabeth Aydon" (L18 x F18) 2003 cross (MK H193) S. x moorei, "Welsh Dragon" (IS 2010) (Ian Salter) S. flava var. ornata, "Super ornata" S. flava var. cuprea, North Carolina (Tricky Utrici F6)
  8. Hello Is there much of an advantage in washing roots and soaking Sarracenias in a fungicide when dividing? What I have done before is take the plant out of the pot and wash the roots under a tap to get rid of almost all of the potting mix. Then the clumps were divided by pulling apart the crowns. These were placed in a solution of wettable Sulphur and soaked there for a few minutes. Then they were potted up. Do you suggest this method or could I get away without having to wash the roots or soaking in Sulphur? If I did not soak in Sulphur or alternatively Hydrogen Peroxide, would it mean many more losses due to crown rot? Sulphur or Hydrogen Peroxide could also be watered into the pot after the plant is potted. I wonder how that would go? I also see some information regarding Hydrogen Peroxide and Sarracenia at https://www.google.com.au/search?q=hydrogen+peroxide+sarracenia&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&gfe_rd=cr&ei=K3qzVcOlJ6vu8wfO14C4DA . Do you think Hydrogen Peroxide may be better than Sulphur for this purpose? Despite dipping them in Sulphur before like described above, I still lost a number to crown rot. I wonder if there would be less losses if I left at least a couple of crowns on each division instead of only one crown on each? Also, bear in mind that I have had a lot of thrips on the plants recently. However, I have cut the leaves off but there still may be some in the crowns. Regards Richard.
  9. Hi everyone, I am not really happy about the state of the few Sarracenia I'm growing on my balcony. I think they are quite slow grower and produce only a few pitchers. When I checked the roots, I noticed some white-blue colour around the roots. Do you have any idea what this is? A kind of mould? See in particular the part of the pic that is surrounded by the blue line. I treated with Aliette, a systemic fungicide. Any other/better idea? For information, here is the mix I'm using: 50% peat moss, 20% coco peat, 14% vermiculite, 14% perlite, 3% charcoal Close-up:
  10. Hello The very hot UK weather has played havoc with my CPs. I went on holiday for a week, and I thought the trays would be sufficiently topped up with water to last while I was away - previous years have been fine. But I guess the hot weather this year meant that they got through the water quicker than usual. Result: I got home and everything was pretty dry. many Dionaea had started turning black, many Sarracenia had also wilted. To make matters worse, I was also out of rain water. All I could do was give them tap water - I thought that would be better than nothing. I am in London so I am aware that the water is very hard (but I also remember growing CPs on my windowsill as a child and that's all I ever gave them, and they didn't do too badly). Anyway, hopefully some rain in the next few days, plus buying some distilled water if I have to, will solve the watering issue. My question is all these plants look pretty unhealthy now - what is the prognosis for them in the long term. Assuming I can get them the right water, will they recover? And will they recover this year, or is it a write-off for this summer but hopefully they will grow back well next year? Any thoughts much appreciated. Thanks!
  11. From the album: Bogs 2015

    Purpureas tend to take over if they like the environment. So I've put them in their own pot. Looks a mess, but they'll soon repopulate it.
  12. From the album: Bogs 2015

    I'm not sure what that green shoot is, but I don't think it's carnivorous.
  13. From the album: Bogs 2015

    Why do the pitchers produce flowers first, then leaves?
  14. From the album: Bogs 2015

    At the end of each year (probably around October) I completely cut everything down to the bone, leaving just the roots.
  15. From the album: Bogs 2015

    After months of inactivity, my pitchers seem to have sprung up overnight.
  16. Hi, Does anyone know what this is on my pitcher plant? It shouldn't have anything to do with outdoors as i have only just planted outside as it had been inside my living room for a while. Notice the pitchers dying off at the top, my thought was that there was too much sun on it in the house (east window). It is now south facing outside but still gets plenty of sun. It is very tall pitcher and all my other plants are flourishing so does anyone know what this is? and what i could do about it? Many thanks Owen
  17. Hi, Does anyone know what these red dots/lines are on my pitcher plants below the rotting pitchers. It shouldn't relate to anything outdoors as i have only just planted outside as before it was on an east facing window (inside) hence the rotting traps which is down to too much sun??? But if you look closely you will see the red dots/rotting at the top of the pitcher plants what is it does anyone know? And anything i can do about it? Thanks
  18. Hello, I have three outdoor bogs where I grow sarracenia and made this little video about early spring care. I hope some members will find it useful. And maybe subscribe to the channel :) Thanks
  19. Hi everybody In the last week I had taken some pictures from my collection. At first a few pygmydrosera. Drosera gibsonii Drosera stelliflora Drosera scorpioiedes 'pink' Drosera pycnoblasta My darlings from south america Drosera latifolia x schwackei Drosera latifolia {Banderia Peak} Drosera graomogolensis x tomentosa var. tomentosa Young Drosera graomogolensis {Itacambria, Brazil} ;) Drosera tomentosa var.glabrata {Serra do Caraca, MG, Brazil} Drosera capillaris And two from south africa. :) Drosera esterhuysenia x slackii Drosera aliciae {Tradouw Pass} Please wait... ;)
  20. Hello to everyone, I' m search this fantisc plant the Sarracenia x Waccamaw, I search only medium or little division because I live in Italy so I think that the traveling with the plant are more expensive. Thanks This is the plant
  21. First off, for those of you not familiar with this variant, S. flava 'extreme red throat' is an unofficial, fictitious name to describe a plant that has more red in the throat than the average S. flava var. rugelii. Some would call this plant a rugelii, while others may call it an ornata. I think neither best describes these plants because some of the pitchers don't have veins, some are a bit reddish, and others are rather green. For those of you who want to see "the plant that started this whole thing" here's "the type specimen": http://sarracenia.proboards.com/thread/229/flava-killer-new-pics-added We suspect all of these extreme red throat variants are the result of hybridization and mixing with different species, and then back-crossing. what are the exact ingredients? Maybe a dash of S. flava var. rubricorpora, and a glug of rugelii, or maybe a selfed rubricorpora x rugelii that has a rubricorpora phenotype. Alternately, there may be a moorei here and there that has an extreme red thoat, and then it back-crosses with rugelii to create a "pure" looking plant with an extreme red throat. In the case of the Bay Co, FL plants, it's likely that these extreme red throated plants resulted from mixing with "regular" rugelii's. We did see some rubricorporas at this site that had very solid red throats, but the tricky thing is tracing nature backwards and trying to find out what crossed with what. Only in cultivation or with DNA tests can we find out exactly what's going on. There are a lot of interesting observations about this site that I will explain in detail in another post. For now, this post will focus on the extreme red throat variants. All photos were taken 8/23/14: If this isn't an extreme red throat, I don't know what is: The body on this one is almost pure red, and I wonder if it can turn solid red depending on environmental conditions. For this reason, I don't call this variant ornata: On the other hand, this one is definitely an ornata: Beautiful greenish body to contrast with the deep red: Love this one, even with the "battle wounds": This trap didn't want to cooperate: Some of them turned out "normal" in terms of the amount of red in the throat: Wanna-be extreme red throat: I think this new late summer trap came from a plant that had rubricorpora-colored pitchers on it. The waters are so muddy on nomenclature, but we can debate that in another post :) Deformed pitcher: Another "regular" rugelii, but not quite regular: Slightly out of focus, but this gives you an idea of what the whole plant looks like: And to end the post, a really cute little baby deer that didn't move even when we came really close to it. Believe me, after being shot at, I know exactly how that deer feels.
  22. lorisarvendu

    July 2014 4

    From the album: Bogs and Outside July 2014

    Plastic bag liners to keep the water in.
  23. lorisarvendu

    July 2014 3

    From the album: Bogs and Outside July 2014

    A couple of purpureas in pots.
  24. lorisarvendu

    July 2014 1

    From the album: Bogs and Outside July 2014

    Meanwhile, in the bogs.
  25. Hi I'm Emery I have three sarracenia that I hope some one can help identify. I'm near the Wednesday ground I haven't got a working camera or I'd post pictures thanks in advance Emery
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