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  1. My sarracenia came in a vase which gets very hot and is clear; and, apparently, this system is very bad. The vase is attractive, but there's no point having aesthetics which are likely harming the plant. It's taller than the pitchers and even taller than their lids. How would you suggest putting it in a more acceptable pot? It also seems unable to catch anything independently. Is there anything that can be done to make it more enticing to prey? Cool thank you!
  2. I would just like to give a shout out to Paul Young in Bristol. Gave me some fab Sarracenias from his really impressive collection. He spent a few hours with me giving me tips and chatting about CP in general, top bloke. I will be heading round there again to buy some fab plants! Cheers! Stellan.
  3. Was taken by surprise when I saw this sight in the greenhouse tonight... Seems the ants in my garden have gotten wise to a good source of free nectar, whilst playing with danger in the process!
  4. Hi all, Just adding some photos and updating everyone on how the displays doing, Pitchers have come up well, and most of the plants are now in full growth. However, I am having some issues with green fly on my Drosera and Dionaea. I'll hopefully get this sorted before September. I have also nearly completed my outdoor Carnivorous plant display (I know I'm spoilt) just need to finish getting materials then plants can start going in. Any comments are appreciated, but remember this display is still young and hopefully will continue to get better, any questions feel free to ask. Enjoy :)
  5. From the album: Guy

    Bought 22/04/Homebase Christchurch
  6. Recently I was asked a question about sarracenia location descriptions, so I thought others may find this map useful. I think it only contains locations for MK's plants but its a good start.
  7. Just split up a pot bound sarracenia into 12 different plants. The original label is "Sarracenia Excellens I.S.", does anyone know what the I.S. refers too? Thanks
  8. I am Growing sarracenia almost 7 years now without any serious problem but from Autom of 2016 a nightmare begins...Some of my sarracenia infected with botrytis(propably somehow from our vineyards ).Fist I let the pots almost dry and I increase the air movement after I was start to searching for a good chemical fungicide I begin with NEOTOPSIN 70 WG but very soon I saw some good results in infected plants but not in spores wich they can widely spread with the weaker movement of air.... so more plants infected! I made a research and I find that maybe trichoderma helps I made one applies per week for 3 weeks no results.. (careful with trichoderma grains becouse it contain very hight ammout of salts and increase the ppm of water...). I finaly find some ecological treatment from Bayer Serenade Max WP botrytis special design to stop botrytis spores and reduce the infection .After 2 months and 4 applies the new plants infections stoped and some of infeced overcome!!!I must say that after the spraying Bayer Serenade Max WP a thin withe layer cover the plant and prevent the spores to propagate and spread! Finaly I aslo tested on Drosera filiformis with excellent results! I hope to be helpful those results! Best regards, Pantelis
  9. Did my seed sowing yesterday. Only 2 lots of sarracenia and darlingtonia each as have so little space. Anyone else done theirs yet?
  10. Username

    Do I trim?

    So I have two sarracenia that I'm keeping outside: S. Stevensii S. oreophila x purpurea I've grown them outside since I got them in May, and in October I removed their water trays for dormancy and otherwise left them there near a low wall. As I imagine most of you know, temperature-wise we've had a really mild winter. Aside from frost a couple of weeks ago I think, it's not dipped below 0. I went to check on my plants today, and while all the pitchers have actually begun to die back now there's still a lot of colour there from ones that haven't died fully back. Also, there are a lot of holes from something munching on them! I remember reading some time back, years ago back when I got my first one, that you're meant to trim them back when they start to die. Should I move them away so the munching thing can't get them? And should I trim them all down to the base? Thanks!
  11. I have a sarra (specific type unknown, but not a purp judging by the tall straight pitchers) that I put on my windowsill some months ago. The ones in my greenhouse are all showing signs of entering dormancy, but this one is putting out quite a lot of new leaves. Do I leave it indoors for a while longer, or put it in the greenhouse, even though this means stunting all these new leaves?
  12. Hello, Couple of pictures from my recent trip to Croatan National Forest. :)
  13. Here's a very peculiar yet outstanding moorei that stuck out of the crowd for it's slight golden color, oddly shaped "back" (hence the unglamorous name) and leucophylla dominant phenotype. The parent plant was a vigorous S. flava var. rugelii Covington Co, AL (this was used as the pod parent) and the pollen donor was a wide, somewhat circular-mouthed, bright white S. leucophylla Covington Co, AL. Despite being man-made, this hybrid is still true to location. It was surprising that the leucophylla genes were so strong in this cross. Had I not divulged the details of the cross, one may have assumed this was a leucophylla back-cross, but it's an F1 hybrid! I'm still pretty surprised by these results. Typically, it's very difficult to make such a cross using flava as the pod parent because flavas usually bloom out before leucophyllas open up, but some years, with the weather not being consistent, we get lucky? When you grow out a genetically diverse population, you also sometimes get some early blooming leucos. I also suspect that the father leucophylla has moorei genes in it generations ago because of the wide mouth, which may explain why it bloomed earlier than the rest of its kin from the same population. Did it matter which plant I used as the pod donor and pollen donor? No idea, but it seemed less likely that others have used flava as the pod parent, and whatever the reason, it yielded at least one gem, possibly 2. The rest of the siblings were very uneventful:imagine a hybridy looking flava that's kinda greenish yellow, maybe some light veins and a flava looking lid...nothing to really talk about. I did get one other leucophylla dominant hybrid that looks really nice, and photos are shown below. Here's some pics of S. x moorei 'Haunchback', photos mostly taken 8/21/16, this plant is in a 4" pot but the traps are close to 2' tall, it's YUUUUUUUUGE considering it's still a youngish seedling: Why the heck did Mike Wang give it this ugly, ridiculous name? Pictures speak a 1000 words, this plant never used its legs to lift heavy objects: This photo was taken when the trap had just opened, it was less colorful back then: not the best picture of this plant, but here's The mother (pod parent) to this plant, who would have guessed? And finally, here's another sibling from the same cross with great potential:
  14. Here are some pictures of my Greenhouse and some of its inhabitants after the only (almost) three sunny days of this summer... I hope you'll like it. :-) Dionaea muscipula 'Funnel Trap' / 'Trichterfalle' by Garnivore, sur Flickr Dionaea muscipula 'Funnel Trap' / 'Trichterfalle' by Garnivore, sur Flickr Dionaea muscipula 'Akaï Ryu' by Garnivore, sur Flickr Drosera adelae by Garnivore, sur Flickr Drosera adelae by Garnivore, sur Flickr Sarracenia x Moorei -- Pinkish top (H87 MK) by Garnivore, sur Flickr Sarracenia x Moorei -- Red high pitcher (SXM71 CA) by Garnivore, sur Flickr Sarracenia flava var. ornata -- Heavy veined Potterton and Martin J. Welham by Garnivore, sur Flickr Sarracenia flava var. ornata -- Heavy veined Potterton and Martin J. Welham by Garnivore, sur Flickr Sarracenia x Moorei -- Pinkish top (H87 MK) and Sarracenia flava var. ornata -- Heavy veined Potterton and Martin J. Welham by Garnivore, sur Flickr Sarracenia flava var. rubricorpora x S. flava var. atropurpurea -- All red form, Blackwater (SFX11 CA) by Garnivore, sur Flickr Leah x Leah Sarracenia x Moorei 'Leah Wilkerson' F2 (from Laurent) by Garnivore, sur Flickr Sarracenia x Moorei 'Leah Wilkerson' F2 (from Laurent) by Garnivore, sur Flickr Sarracenia x Moorei 'Adrian Slack' by Garnivore, sur Flickr Sarracenia flava var. ornata -- Heavy veined (F38 Phil Wilson) by Garnivore, sur Flickr Sarracenia flava var. ornata -- 'Super Ornata' by Garnivore, sur Flickr Sarracenia flava -- All red (SFX18a CA) by Garnivore, sur Flickr Encore petit, je l'attends aussi celui-là! :) Sarracenia flava var. rubricorpora -- Don Schnell, very dark (J. Ainsworth) (F124 MK) by Garnivore, sur Flickr
  15. Hello When is the best time of the day to spray Sarracenia for thrips on sunny days when the maximum temperature is about 28°C and when there is a heavy dew? I am spraying Yates Success that is described at . It says "Do not spray when shade temperatures are near 28°C or higher" "Contains spinetoram, the latest generation insect control derived from beneficial soil bacteria. Spinetoram has translaminar movement, which means it moves into the leaf, making the solution resistant to rain and sunlight six hours after application" I used to do it just before at about sunset when it is cooler. However, heavy dew only a couple of hours later concerned me. However, now a grower suggested that the temperature only has to be below 28°C when the leaves are wet with the spray and that it can be warmer than that after it dries. He therefore suggested spraying in the morning at about 9 or 10AM. Is this correct? Bear in mind the plants are in full sun and the temperature in the sun is higher than 28°C even at 9AM. The above quote does refer to shade temperature though. Your help is appreciated. Regards Richard
  16. To Sarracenia growers across the pond, a taste of what they are missing. The local BACPS show and sale was on 6/4 and it was blast. Lots of great new people and of course - the plants. I documented what I could before I got swept up in idle chatter. The entrance to the BACPS event Metal art piece in the front of the Garden Center -- great lawn ornament A nice pond they had in the public gardens Some new friends Display plants Competition Plants
  17. It's been a while since I last posted here! The last couple of years has been very busy with university, fieldwork, and travelling around various parts of Europe, with much time spent away from home. While I found time to tend to and tidy the hardy plants in the greenhouse from time to time, as a result my indoor collection, which I was very proud of, has shrunk considerably due to neglect and pests. I am looking to build it up again to some extent, especially with Drosera and Utricularia (I can't believe I lost my prized flowering specimens of U. quelchii and praetermissa - there was some sort of isopod arthropod in the moss which ate at the stolons and the damage was done before I noticed! ) However, the run of nice weather recently has left things looking very nice in the greenhouse! Plenty of growth on the sarras! This is my tallest Sarra *so far* this year - but it may be beaten by an x alava. It's S. flava rugellii MK F143 'Tall clone'. Great robust pitcher, 96 cm tall, with a huge lid and lovely throat! Gorgeous tall flava ornatas This promising-looking rubricorpora seedling has been lurking unnoticed in a corner for goodness know show long until I found it and was delighted with its colour! Orange flowers of Brook's Hybrid: One of my favourites, MK H26 - flava x alata, just opened. This should go deep crimson all over later in the season. I love the small sweet red flowers of rubras en masse - in front is jonesii, left is wherryi yellow flower, back is alabamensis And wherryi 'Chatom Giant': Leucos are starting to pop open too: My first ever Darlingtonia flowers! they're lovely, and remind me of Fritillary lilies. The whole Darly plant - ridiculous numbers of stolons being produced, not that I'm complaining! More to come!!
  18. Dear all, I would like to share with you a pictorial of this ‘self-sufficient’ watering table I recently constructed. I was looking for a solution to avoid having to continuously water my (mainly) Sarraceniaceae collection and especially during holidays etc. I came up with a design for a setup which collects rainwater in a reservoir and automatically pumps it to the highest watering table above the reservoirs with a solar powered pump in a continuous cycle. This is the original design (sorry, this part is in Dutch): Because I grow my plants on the balcony (I live in Amsterdam and unfortunately don’t have the luxury of a ‘real’ garden) I first had to find a way to collect the rainwater. Our rain pipe is square and there aren’t any pre-made rain water collectors available for square pipes (only for round pipes). That meant I had to make and weld one myself from zinc metal. Next I had to make a hole in the side of the rain pipe and slide in the adapter. To make the cross-over between pipe and adapter inside the pipe as smooth as possible I overlapped the edges with aluminum isolation tape (which is normally used to attach reflective isolation foil behind radiators etc.). Aluminum isolation tape is thin, strong and relatively resistant against corrosion. I also use it to cover the outside of plastic containers when they are in full sun. This reflects the sunlight and keeps the pot and roots cool. I left the top of the adapter open so in case we get a Dutch ‘flooding’ shower the excess water can find a way out and doesn’t take down the adapter or cause other kind of damage. I made a ‘safety valve’ cover from aluminum which just slides in and isn’t attached permanently. If need be it will just ‘pop’ out so the excess water can escape. Because the rain pipe is on the shady end of my balcony and the plants are on the sunny (other) side of the balcony I had to put in quite a lot of length of rain pipe (40 mm) to get it all the way to the other side of the balcony (to make the pipes as less visible as possible I hid it behind the plant pots which sit on the outer wall) I used two reservoirs which contain 2x 150 litres = 300 liters of rainwater. The watering tables themselves contain another 100 liters (= 400 liters in total) and offer a little over 2 square meters of growing space). I hope 400 liters of water will proof to be enough during longer hot periods without rain, if not I will have to put in another one or two reservoirs. I believe I once read somewhere that one Sarracenia can use up to a liter of water per day on hot days. Any growers who have experience or can confirm this? I connected both reservoirs with a standard ‘rainwater butt connector’ as low to the ground as possible. I wanted to filter both the water collected from the roof (it could contain leaves and dirt etc.) and the water which comes back from the watering table above to avoid damage to the solar pump. First I covered the reservoirs with thick polystyrene isolation boards (to reduce evaporation). I then made a square hole to fit in a basket which is normally used for pond plants. I lined this with a filtering cloth used for aquarium pumps. In future I can just take this out, rinse it and put it back. I covered the basket with the cut out lid and made a round hole for the rain pipe. To catch the water which will be running back from the watering table above I connected an extra pipe to the diagonal rain pipe going down. In this the hose from the watering table above will be inserted. (You may notice I made an mistake here, because the parts were already glued together I couldn’t correct it anymore and had to fit in the additional second (correct) one later on after discovering my error) On the left I inserted a vertical rain pipe all the way to the bottom into the reservoir which at a later stage will function as a water level indicator. The first water table from Zinc has been placed on top. The size of both tables is 175 x 61 x 20 cm. To pump up the water I use a solar pump which is normally used for garden fountains (Esotec, Napoli). To prevent damage this pump will automatically shut itself of as soon as the water level is too low. Not all solar pumps have this essential feature. This pump also has enough power to pump up the water to the required height (not all pumps do). I connected a piece of garden hose (13 mm) and placed it in the left reservoir; this to ensure the maximum possible water flow between the reservoirs and to avoid stagnating water. The pump has suction cups to prevent the pump from drifting and to secure it to the bottom. The other end of the hose is connected to a bronze connector (normally used to connect a garden hose to a watertap) I then placed the second supporting structure to carry the lowest water table. Behind the doors it’s possible to store, pots, potting medium, plantlabels etc. These are three close-up pictures of the standard 32mm plumbing connectors I used. These are glued to one end of a standard ‘rainwater butt connector’. In order to tell how much water the reservoirs contain I made a water level indicator. This is a simple wine cork to which I attached multiple drinking straws (which are very light and strong). On top I glued a colored bead. As soon as the bead is the same height as the top of the pipe I know I need to temporary water my plants until the next rainfall. I will replace the cork every year as I suspect it will eventually become waterlogged Here you see the solar panel itself. It’s of a decent (not too big) size and can be placed in an angle with a support on the back (inclusive). A few days after completion the first rain fell (10mm) and I could finally test it. The reservoirs were full to the brim and once the sun came out the pump came into action and filled both water tables quite rapidly. To my opinion it was flowing a bit too fast (600 liters per hour is the maximum capability of this pump) so I had to find a way to reduce the flow. First I shaded just one side of the solar panel. The pump simply wouldn’t work so I had to come up with another way. I then wrapped the solar panel twice in green agricultural sun filtering material. This worked very well and not only is the flow optimal now it also ‘hides’ the solar panel and makes it less visible (you can see the water flowing on the background). I have been using this system for over a month now and I am quite pleased with it. I can enjoy growing them without having to worry about having to water them on hot days (especially when on holiday). An extra ‘bonus’ is the sound of trickling water which has a bit of ‘Zen’ feeling to it. I haven’t fully used all the new growing space (I haven’t got enough plants yet to fill the space). To reduce evaporation on hot days as much as possible I use the same white polystyrene isolation boards. Over time I’m sure both water tables will be full with plants. The container with green agricultural sun filtering material on top contains a few Cephalotus plants and one Heliamphora nutans (which all survived the frosts (-5 degrees Celsius) this winter). The plants showed on the picture are still in dormant state. In summer I will post a picture with plants in optimum condition. In the coming months I will keep a close eye on it and see whether the system will continue to work well. I suspect the sun will warm up the zinc metal in full frontal view quite a bit and over time slowly warm up the water. If this is the case I will cover the sides with reflective isolation foil (normally used behind radiators etc.) If there are any other adjustments required I will report it in this forum. I hope you have enjoyed this pictorial and wishing you happy CP growing this season. Reinier
  19. Hi there, today I used the time and the gaps between the clouds to take some photos. Autumn's comming... That's all. Have fun, regards, Christian
  20. Hello, Amongst my extensive collection of CPs (ahem ), I have a Sarracenia Maroon (well, two actually, but this question is mainly about one of them)... I got this a while back from an online seller. It came bare rooted, and I potted it in a strange mixture. The lower half of the pot is Hant's COM1 mixture, and the upper half is live sphagnum moss... I'm not sure offhand why I did this, but there must have been a good reason for it! Anyway, it sits in a tray of about 1"-2" of rain water, along with some other CPs. I took it out of the tray and held it over a bowl for the photo. I don't normally cuddle it like this! The problem I have is that all of the pitchers that were on the plant when I got it are starting to dry up, as you can see from this close-up... The top of the moss is wet to the touch, so that's not the problem, and it gets misted (manually by me, I'm not up to Welshy's fab automatic system yet!) whenever I remember. Admittedly, this isn't that often, but the humidity around the plants is generally between 40% and 75%, so I don't think that's the problem either. Also, most of the other plants seem to be OK. Don't know if it's relevant, but I've never seen any water in the bottom of the pitchers. I asked about this a couple of weeks ago, and was reassured that this isn't an issue, but I thought I'd mention it in case. During the course of that discussion, I did add some water to the pitchers, but when I looked the next day, it had all gone. Anyone any ideas why the leaves on this one are drying up? As you can see from the pictures, there are new leaves growing, but I'm concerned why the old ones are drying out. Thanks for any help.
  21. Carnivorous plants in flower and how I keep them outdoors!
  22. Hi folks, Maybe this video will be of interest to those who are new to sarracenia. Thanks for watching.
  23. Hi everyone, It's about time (well, in a few months, in early spring) to repot my Sarracenia, and I'm wondering what is best to mix with peat: sand or perlite? Did anybody compare these 2? I'm particularly interested in long-term experience, as I don't want to repot too often. Thanks
  24. From the album: Sarracenia

    LE08 Sarracenia leucophylla, Dark red. YV LE06 2009, CK.