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Hello Everyone I have been growing Cephalotus in the UK for over 25 years now but still no expert. I have done some Googling and there is often debate over what bit of the plant is which. For the purpose of this post I am referring to both leaves and traps as leaves. I have taken leaf cuttings in the past which you can do without disturbing the mother plant so much. I get around a 80-90% strike rate. However due to now living in a flat I don't have much windowsill room I don't take leaf cuttings anymore. I have a mother plant that I have had for ages and she was in a 4 inch (10 cm) and she is now in a 7 inch pot (18 cm). I take cuttings when I repot. I mainly take crown divisions which I remove from the outer rim of the plant. Now when I say crown I mean a rosette of leaves attached to a structure that is creamy white to brown (which I shall call a rhizome) that is usually below the potting medium. Now sometimes this "rhizome" in a bigger plant can be dark brown and sometimes a bit hairy and partly above the potting medium. In both the cases the cutting may have roots, or may not. When I say "roots" I am referring to the thinner parts of the plant below the "rhizomes" usually the same colour. Now then I have this year in January I had 8 crown divisions all of which have taken and a few have put out some new growth. As a few bits fell off I tried to take three "root" cuttings and put them horizontally in a pot covered by a centimetre of potting medium. All three have struck and have popped small leaves above the surface. I now wish I had taken pictures but here is one I found that I think make my ramblings clearer, it is on the website below. On this website it talks about root cuttings but it then refers to them as rhizome cuttings interestingly. https://carnivorousplantresource.com/the-plants/australian-pitcher-plant/ Any thoughts? I would appreciate any suggestions but a botanical slant would be good. Keep yourselves safe and happy growing Peace Adam

So I have finally had a flower stalk from my H. heterodoxa and got ready to collect the pollen when the second flower started to open. I did a bit of research on the net and ended up trying the 'brute force' method since I did not have a tuning fork at my disposal! I got out my equipment and managed to collect a fair amount of pollen from the first flower. I am quite pleased that I managed to get some and will attempt to pollinate the second flower once it opens. It however occurred to me, that should anyone walk in on me, I might get a few strange looks

So, I bought a Nepenthes x ventrata recently, and I have some questions about nepenthes vining. So, my questions are, if when my Nepenthes starts a vine I bury the vine in another pot with a growth point just below the surface, will it form a seperate connected rosette, will the vine stop or continue growing, and will the two rosettes be able to share minerals, water and such over the vine connecting them? Or will they just separate eventually?

So, I bought a Nepenthes x ventrata recently, and I have some questions about nepenthes vining. So, my questions are, if when my Nepenthes starts a vine I bury the vine in another pot with a growth point just below the surface, will it form a seperate connected rosette, will the vine stop or continue growing, and will the two rosettes be able to share minerals, water and such over the vine connecting them? Or will they just separate eventually?

Hello I am wondering what is the best and easiest way to grow Nepenthes cuttings in water and I am also trying to find a post I once saw on a forum about rooting Nepenthes cuttings in water where Polystyrene was also used to help prop them up. Have you seen it or do you know where it is? I think the only practical way to grow them in water would be to have a lot of them in the one tray of water and have the cuttings fairly close together with perhaps an inch between them. Do you think this would be all right? I just hope it will not spread disease between them. The tray could contain about 50 cuttings. I had them in separate containers before but it is more time consuming to maintain the water levels. I did read that the water needed to be changed often but this is not practical and I cannot see why it would be necessary so long as algae is prevented. I did have that problem. However, this time I will try to stop light getting in which the Polystyrene should do. Also, I wonder if it would matter if the base of the cutting rests on the bottom of the container or if it would be better suspended above it? Regards Richard.

How do you guys control mould whilst germinating nepenthes seeds? I ask because i have some bicalcarata, spectabilis, flava and mirabilis seeds in milled sphag moss at the moment for the past 2-3 weeks. I treated the seeds to a hydrogen peroxide spray and did the same with the moss aswell as a blast in the microwave before sowing. i still get tiny amounts of green and white mould, less than the size od a pin head which i have been picking out to stop it spreading too much. does anyone use sprays etc it would be handy to know. thanks.

Does anyone have Nepenthes Attenboroughii seeds, there is nothing online and i do not know where to find them. Thanks in advance!