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Found 4 results

  1. Hello Do you know of anyone that has done some experiments to measure how much difference various cutting striking methods make for Nepenthes? For example, some people claim that a particular slicing technique is better while someone else suggests something different. Some people suggest putting a split in the base of the stem while other people say to put slits in the outer layer of tissue. With a very sharp knife blade, I used to cut the petiole (at the base of the cutting) off where it joins the stem so the cut also removes the outer layer of tissue on the stem to expose the meristematic tissue. However, a friend who did some cuttings with me who knew a lot about it, suggested this was not necessary and he just used secateurs to cut the stem below the node without doing any other splicing. He also suggested dipping the cutting in water or rooting hormone as quickly as possible after cutting the stem to avoid air getting trapped in the base of the stem. Then he would wrap the stem in sphagnum and pot as soon as he took the cutting out of the water or hormone. I have been dipping the cutting in a solution of wettable sulfur just before potting to stop fungi. However, other people do not recommend this. Also, some people recommend root hormone while other people say that it does not help. I wonder if any of these techniques make much difference and if any tests have been done to compare the difference. Do you know of any tests where a reasonable number of cuttings had one of these methods done and it was compared to a number of the same variety planted at the same time under the same conditions where the method was not done? If not, do you know of anyone that could do this experiment? It would be worthwhile, as it could save a lot of time and expense in doing something that may not be necessary. Regards Richard.
  2. Hi everyone, I'm struggling with my D. paradoxa: I want to multiply this lovely plant, but it doesn't work! I tried leaf cuttings and even flower stem cuttings, in sphagnum, in water. Nothing... Did anybody succeeded with this particular species and has a trick to share? Cheers Vincent
  3. Hello Do you find the growing medium makes much difference for Nepenthes cuttings? Would there be much difference in strike rate if I used pure sphagnum moss or alternatively sphagnum moss mixed with Perlite with perhaps 50 percent of each or if I used sphagnum based peat mixed with Perlite with 50 percent of each? Also, does it matter much what the weather is like when I take the cuttings? I am concerned that the plants may be more stressed during hot dry weather and it may be best to wait until it is cooler and overcast with more humidity. Would it increase the chances of them striking if I took them in cooler, overcast and humid conditions or is it all right in hot and dry weather if I keep the cuttings I took misted and in water? Currently we are in spring in Northern Australia on the Atherton Tableland near Cairns where daytime temperatures rise to about 30 degrees Celsius when the humidity is about 30%. Once I have taken the cuttings I will put them in a greenhouse with over 50% shade where there is an automatic misting system that regularly mists the foliage. Regards Richard.
  4. Hello I am in the process of dividing and Sarracenias and doing leaf pullings. I have a greenhouse with 50% white Solarweave plastic. In the greenhouse I have a mister that cuts on when the gauze on the balance arm loses weight due to the evaporation of water on it so the mister goes off many times a day. It is only a light fog that lightly dampens the leaves. With Sarracenia leaf pullings would it be much of an advantage to grow them in this misted greenhouse or would they grow just as well in my other greenhouse that is also covered in 50% white Ssolarweave plastic but does not have the mister going unless the temperatures go above 30 degrees? Would I have to use fairly young leaves or ones that have not fully developed or would older leaves also work provided they are still green? Should I cut most of the leaf off and when they are planted have the leaf standing vertically if they grow that way? Sarracenia psittacina would be placed almost horizontally. Would I only bury the very base of the leaf where it attaches to the crown so that the bottom of the stem may only be about half and inch below the surface of the soil? Is rooting hormone much of an advantage? I also read: "Not all Sarracenia species propagate via leaf pullings either. Sarracenia purpurea and Sarracenia psittacina are the best candidates for leaf pullings. Strike rate is about 50%. The other species don't respond to leaf pullings." Is that your experience? Regards Richard.