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rwharold

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Posts posted by rwharold

  1. Drosera cistiflora 'purple flower'

    in Drosera

    Posted

    I just received two days ago, a Drosera cistiflora 'purple flower' from California Carnivores. Attached is the link to the advertised plant and a stock picture of the purple flower: https://californiaca...r-deluxe-potted. The plant that I received looks almost exactly like the one that was advertised:

    Drosera cistiflora 'purple flower'

    . Does anyone have any idea on how long it will take to reach flowering size? Any cultivation, feeding, and growing instructions?

     

  2. Drosera cistiflora in Southafrica

    in Carnivorous Plants in Habitat

    Posted

    Richard,

     

    Thanks for sending me the email information about the Drosera cistiflora 'purple flower'. It was VERY useful. I guess that I will just have to patient for it to grow more and finally flower. Do you have any guess how many years that might take?

     

    Another separate topic. on September 11/2015, I purchased a Drosera capensis 'narrow leaf' Deluxe Potted from California Carnivores (https://www.californiacarnivores.com/products/drosera-capensis-narrow-leaf-deluxe-potted). Since that time, with periodic feeding of Beta MICRO Floating Betta Pellet Food, it more than doubled in sized and recently flowered twice with a little over 5o flowers, which I had hand pollinated with a small brush, and they have since died and I let them dry completely. They all must contain seeds. Do you, or anyone else, have a use for these seeds. I will be more than happy to mail them to you or whomever wants them.

     

    Best regards,

     

    Richard

  3. Drosera cistiflora in Southafrica

    in Carnivorous Plants in Habitat

    Posted · Edited by rwharold

    I just received today a Drosera cistiflora 'purple flower' from California Carnivores. Attached is the advertised plant and the purple flower: https://californiacarnivores.com/products/drosera-cistiflora-purple-flower-deluxe-potted. The plant that I received looks almost exactly like the one that was advertised. Does anyone have any idea on how long it will take to reach flowering size? Any cultivation, feeding, and growing instructions?

  4. Cephalotus Czech Giant

    in Cephalotus

    Posted

    Greetings Richard, firstly definately do not feed Cephs mealworms.  I have done that in the past as I keep them feeding quails and they are great for Neps. Unless you use the very tiny ones you can over do the feeding.  If you want to try the Osmocote, try a small pellet in the largest trap on the plant, but only one pellet in one trap.  Peter has had plenty of experience at this, but I suggest that you take things carefully.   The fertilizer should help the Ceph recover quicker from the shock of the move,but you don't want to over do it.  Make sure you make the spray dilute.  For what I use I dilute it 1:10 of the recommended dilution for other plants.  Check with Peter what he recommends for the fertilizer he has referred you to.

     

    Basically although to a point you can feed Cephs like Neps, you need to be aware that it is better to keep Cephs in drier air, while Neps need humidity.  Neps are bigger and can handle larger meals, while Cephs naturally catch small crawling arthropods. Large insects will cause the traps to rot out, so if you wish to feed them live prey then use something like pinhead or small House Crickets (Chinese/Japanese Crickets).

     

    Greetings Richard, firstly definately do not feed Cephs mealworms.  I have done that in the past as I keep them feeding quails and they are great for Neps. Unless you use the very tiny ones you can over do the feeding.  If you want to try the Osmocote, try a small pellet in the largest trap on the plant, but only one pellet in one trap.  Peter has had plenty of experience at this, but I suggest that you take things carefully.   The fertilizer should help the Ceph recover quicker from the shock of the move,but you don't want to over do it.  Make sure you make the spray dilute.  For what I use I dilute it 1:10 of the recommended dilution for other plants.  Check with Peter what he recommends for the fertilizer he has referred you to.

     

    Basically although to a point you can feed Cephs like Neps, you need to be aware that it is better to keep Cephs in drier air, while Neps need humidity.  Neps are bigger and can handle larger meals, while Cephs naturally catch small crawling arthropods. Large insects will cause the traps to rot out, so if you wish to feed them live prey then use something like pinhead or small House Crickets (Chinese/Japanese Crickets).

    Thanks Marcus,

     

    You mention that you feed Cephs: "quails". I am not familiar with that name. Exactly, what is that? Also, you mentioned "pinhead', another name that I am not familiar with. Can you use a more common name?

     

    Richard

  5. Cephalotus Czech Giant

    in Cephalotus

    Posted · Edited by rwharold

    Best thing that you can do for the traps is to reposition them and add a little water to them.  Frequently when transplanted Cephs lose the bigger/older pitchers.  If it came in the pot they may recover.  The change in environment may still be enough to cause it to die back before it puts out new growth.

     

    Care for Cephs is pretty much the same not matter what label they have.  How are you intending to feed it?  Putting food into the traps can cause them to die off if it is over done.  Small amounts work well, as do dilute appropriate fertilizers when sprayed over the leaves. Thanks Marcus

     

  6. Cephalotus Czech Giant

    in Cephalotus

    Posted

    Best thing that you can do for the traps is to reposition them and add a little water to them.  Frequently when transplanted Cephs lose the bigger/older pitchers.  If it came in the pot they may recover.  The change in environment may still be enough to cause it to die back before it puts out new growth.

     

    Care for Cephs is pretty much the same not matter what label they have.  How are you intending to feed it?  Putting food into the traps can cause them to die off if it is over done.  Small amounts work well, as do dilute appropriate fertilizers when sprayed over the leaves. Thanks Marcus

    Thanks Marcus,

    Yes, I had ordered the Ceph already potted. So do you think that the traps will recover and become upright? I am not 100% certain about proper feeding however. I have a Nepenthes x 'Rebecca Soper' that I purchased from California Carnivores and they told me when I received the plant to add a little distilled water to each trap and drop in one Osmocote fertilizer pellet into each pitcher, see:(http://www.californiacarnivores.com/osmocotefertilizerpellets.aspx). The bag of Osmocote pellets is labeled to be used for both Nepenthes AND Cephalotus. I have also fed the Nep. small live meal mealworms and it is growing quite well with good coloration. Peter D'Amato, the owner of California Carnivores, also told me to spray all my CPs with a diluted concentration of the seaweed based fertilizer Maxsea (16-16-16) once or twice a month. Your comments and suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I most certainly don't want to kill this $160 CP!

    Thanks, Richard

  7. Cephalotus Czech Giant

    in Cephalotus

    Posted · Edited by rwharold

    I just received a large Cephalotus Czech Giant from Michael Szesze the grower and owner of the Carnivorous Plant Nursery in Smithsburg, Maryland (USA).

    Cephatolus Czech Giant - large

    . As you can see from the picture, all the traps are rather crushed down and laying flat from the packing/shipping process. Does anyone have any experience with this variety and can tell me if and when the traps may become upright so that I can add a little distilled water and begin to feed them? I am growing this plant on an indoor window sill under a TaoTronics Newest LED Grow Light 24W Plant Grow Lights E27 Growing Bulb For Garden Greenhouse and Hydroponic Full Spectrum Growing Lamp in 3 Bands. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ZZLP8G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00)

    Any advice that you can provide on the proper cultivation and feeding would be greatly appreciated.

  8. Cephalotus Follicularis Hummer's Giant

    in Cephalotus

    Posted

    What is coming out in the comments appears to be the frustration that this issue has come up again and looks like it won't go away.  Many people who are new to growing Cephs get drawn to the idea that if they pay a lot of money for a plant with a name then they will have something special and then they get disappointed.

     

    Giants such as the ones listed on Michael's site have a tendency to produce large than "typical" sized pitchers more readily than "Typical" Cephs.  However, given the right conditions, "Typical" plants can also produce large pitchers, hence the argument about whether such a distinction is valid.  From my own experience, such a distinction does have merit, but it seems that too many plants have been sold as being something that they are not and so confusion reigns. 

     

    There are lot of other variations that get named which appear to be products of a particular grower's set up and therefore not something that is genetic.  It is this combination of debatable issues, and the fact that some people seem to take advantage of it, which is what many get worked up about.   It gets too easy to forget how confusing this can be to those who just want to start growing something a bit unusual.

     

    Have fun picking out your new plant, but just be prepared for it to do things you don't expect, including dying back for awhile, but give it time to settle in and in a few years you may have a plant that you are proud to show off.  If Michael grows them himself rather than just on selling plants, then talk to him about the conditions he keeps them in and get his suggestions for how to accommodate the plant in your set up, but be ready to enjoy your Ceph even if it does not do what you hope for.

    Thanks a lot Marcus. I deeply appreciate your detailed intelligent responses (unlike some others). They are most helpful. I intend to make my purchase on December 3rd. I will post a picture of what I have selected. Best regards, Richard

    • Like 1

  9. Cephalotus Follicularis Hummer's Giant

    in Cephalotus

    Posted

    Thanks a lot Marcus. This does help to clarify the situation. However, I don't appreciate being treated like an idiot by others. I did some research. I found a reputable CP (+Cephalotus follicularis) supplier: http://www.carnivorousplantnursery.com/cgi-bin/shop.pl?SID=1445218293.20336&page=category.html&category=13. I spoke with Michael, the owner, and he treated me with respect, and suggested that I visit his greenhouse to pick out the one that I like best. I intend to do so within the coming week.

  16. Cephalotus Follicularis Hummer's Giant

    in Cephalotus

    Posted

    I am considering the purchase of the Cephalotus Follicularis Hummer's Giant which comes potted in a 4 inch pot. I intend to place it indoors on a bright sunny window sill under a 6500 Kelvin plant grow light along with my 3 other CPs. I have several questions: 1) How large will this plant get? 2) I will place it in a saucer with distilled water. Should I let it dry out between watering's or always keep the saucer with water? 3) Any other tips and advice that will help me to grow a healthy bright red plant?

     

    Thank you in advance for your advice!

  17. Tip for feeding sundews

    in Drosera

    Posted

    Thanks carni grower, Great video! I purchased a small bottle of Zoo Med MICRO Betta Pellet Food. The MICRO pellets are about the size of the point of a ball point pen, so they don' need crushing and liquefying. My Drosera capensis 'narrow red' seems to enjoy them and within a few hours the tips curl around the micro pellet. I also purchased a container of the seaweed based product "Maxsea" that I use to spray a diluted mixture on my supply of living sphagnum moss which seems to keep it growing quite well. I also spoke with Peter D'Amato the author of the new revised book titled "The Savage Garden" and owner of California Carnivores, and he told me that I could also spray a diluted mixture of Maxsea on my D. capensis. I haven't tried this yet because I was wanting to hear from others about their success with this special sea weed based product. My CP collection now consists of 1) Dionaea muscipula 'Ginormous', 2) Drosera capensis 'narrow red', and my newest arrival: 3) Nepenthes x  'Rebecca Soper'. For the N. 'Rebecca Soper', he told me to drop a single pellet of Osmocote into each pitcher after I have added a small amount of distilled water to each pitcher (since they were dry from the shipping process). I am now waiting for my supply to arrive by mail.

     

    Any and all comments would be greatly appreciated.

    • Like 1

  20. Tip for feeding sundews

    in Drosera

    Posted

    Or there's Maxsea.

    Hi Richard,

     

    I just purchased a small supply of micro betta bites fish food. I was thinking of using these the feed my Drosera capensis 'narrow red'. Would it be best to rehydrate the micro pellets before feeding or just use them dry?

     

    Best regards,

     

    Richard

  22. Hello from Virginia USA

    in Introductions

    Posted

    Though I never kept them, I should think that D. hydei will still be a prolific wanderer. I don't want to make it sound like they're impossible to handle though! Plenty of people keep them for dart frogs and the like. You'll get the hang of it if you want to stick with them.

     

    I did feed spare fruit flies to some of my Drosera back in the day, but I had pretty dense carpets of D. spatulata, burmannii, adelae and some pygmies, so just sprinkled them on. The leaves of D. capensis are a bit sparser. You could certainly transfer them with tweezers, though it would be a bit labour-intensive. As I mentioned, you might find fish flakes an easier alternative in the long run if you really want to feed Drosera.

     

    As for how many insects a plant actually needs, that's a difficult question. Outside on the patio, my Drosera will get a steady sprinkling of gnats and flies. No idea the exact number though ... two or three small flies on each leaf every week? My experience is that it's more important for seedlings to be fed ... I've had baby Drosera waste away in the absence of food.

     

    Good luck!

    numpty, I received my supply of D. Hydei wingless fruit flies today, and I now regret my decision. They indeed are very hard to capture and use. I wish that I had received your advice earlier before I ordered them. Do you have a brand of fish flakes that you would recommend? On another issue, I did manage to "feed" my D. capensis 'narrow red' two semi smashed fruit flies which stuck to the leaves, but they have not curled around the flies. I was under the impression that sundew leaves curled around their prey. Is that not true with this variety? Cheers!

  23. Hello from Virginia USA

    in Introductions

    Posted

    Should just add to that last post - and it's probably obvious - don't chill the whole fruit fly culture, just the few you've tipped out as feeders.

     

    I think I kept D. melanogaster (the smaller of the two common flightless species) and they can get everywhere if you're not careful ... so be ready to get the lids on quickly when you're removing some!

    numpty, Since I will be receiving the larger Drosophila Hydei wingless fruit flies, do you think that they will be a little easier to control? I am a little uncertain as to exactly how to manage the few that I would need for the feeding of the Drosera capensis. Can I just reach into the container and grab one with tweezers and then transfer to the sticky surface? Or do you have another suggestion? About how many of the flies should be used for one feeding and at what frequency? Weekly, biweekly, or? Also, since the Drosera doesn't go dormant in the winter, I assume that I should continue the feeding schedule. Correct? I apologize for so many questions, but after searching the internet, I just couldn't find any advice on the exact procedure to use. That's why I am using this forum looing for someone who has had the actual experience. Take care.

  24. Hello from Virginia USA

    in Introductions

    Posted

    You don't need to feed very often at all, though new growers with few plants tend to enjoy watching them eat! It's more like giving vitamin supplements, really. If you've given your VFT a couple of medium-sized mealworms, that should be enough to last a good while ... perhaps until dormancy. Same for Drosera: a scattering of fruit flies every month would be fine, in my opinion.

     

    Watch the fruit flies though ... they can be a little difficult to control. Perhaps chill them in the fridge for a minute or two before sprinking on the Drosera.

    numpty, Thanks for the tips. Good suggestion for the fruit flies! Take care, Richard

  25. Hello from Virginia USA

    in Introductions

    Posted

    Hi there, and welcome to the forum.

     

    You'll probably find that the sunny windowsill is able to deliver enough light for the plants without the grow light, but extra light can be useful for some plants in the depth of winter.

     

    You'll no doubt know this, but Dionaea go dormant over winter. Photoperiod is a big trigger, but you might want to let it experience a dip in temperatures to trigger dormancy too. That said, mine slow down and go dormant with temperatures of well over 15C ... shorter daylight hours and decreased watering seem to be enough.

     

    I keep mealworms for my amphibians, and the fridge method should work fine. You could also keep some separated as a breeding colony ... they're pretty low-maintenance. However, you'll probably find that, given VFT's limited appetite, you have way too many mealworms at any given time. Same with the Drosera: fruit flies are probably not worth the effort. It should be able to catch small flies by itself, or you could put it outside in a sunny location until the weather cools down. If you really want to feed Drosera, fish flakes and the like usually work well, and aren't as fiddly or smelly as Drosophila cultures.

     

    Good luck!

    Thank numpty,

     As far as the photoperiod goes, I constantly readjust the grow light on/off timer to my current sunrise/sunset times, so they will get shorter and shorter as the seasons progress. Concerning the mealworms and fruit flies, I have already made the investment, and I will just have to live with them, culling out the amount as time progresses. Do you have any advice on the feeding frequency of each plant? Best regards, Richard

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