Druboi

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  1. My plants are young and I already started them off with a few pellets of Osmocote in their potting mix, but, species like rajah, and ephippiata are accustomed and adapted to be tree shrew toilets. Assuming the shrews are insectivorous, I was thinking Mexican bat guano ( guano differs according to where it's from, since fruit bats leave guano with more P and insectivorous bats (Mexican) leave guano with more N ) would be similar to the shrew excretement and could be applied as a foliar spray or fed to the pitchers. Thoughts?
  2. So far, I'm surprised by the speed the plant is growing. It has opened an existing pitcher and put out a new leaf in the few weeks I've had it. I imagine it could be growing so quickly due to residual chemicals and hormones from tissue culture, as the plant has some small basals, that are indicative of a TC plant. I know to remove the basals, when they are large enough. This has been a coveted plant, for me, since childhood and I'm very happy that it's settling in. By comparison, my edwardsiana, hamata, attenbourghii, and mikei showed much less interest in showing that they had settled in and took 6-10 weeks to let me know they were going to like things here. Maybe the SuperThrive soak I gave rajah, but not the others, made a difference too.
  3. I think your Winter minimum temps would be too low. Most highland, intermediate, and lowland plants can handle a night drop, to 12-15C, even if they'd rather be warmer. The catch is that the daytime temps need to be warm, around 25-30C, though some highlanders don't want much above 25C. Hybrids are generally more tolerant, vigorous, and adaptable. I would suggest inquiring where you are getting the plants from, about the growing parameters there and try to replicate them, with small changes to acclimate them, over time. For example, you might repot them and place them under cover for 6-8 weeks to adjust, then vent the cover for a week, then half open the cover for a week, then remove the cover all together and see how they do. You might place a personal/room sized humidifier in the area where you will be growing and slowly dial it down, over a couple of months, to adapt them to lower humidity. Your indoor temps should be fine, but that 35% humidity will prevent them from pitchering. When the humidity or warmer weather returns, growing them outdoors should be possible, or indoors, if humidity is constantly around 60%, you will get pitchers, again.
  4. I've had N.northiana for nearly 3 years. I grew it enclosed, but it likely lacked enough heat, with being grown at typical household temps. From the reading I've done, it is considered to be hard to kill, but hard to grow well. Most of the success stories are from growers using 100% clay-based substrates. I've given mine higher temps and added a fired clay substrate to its mix. What do those of you with success think is key to getting good results from this species?
  5. My ambient humidity is quite high, at around 80%, but 60% and above should be fine, though there will be an adjustment period of lost pitchers and time before new pitchers are formed, if the grower before had higher humidity. 35% is pretty low, so you may need to take measures to raise the humidity, when it falls below 50-60%, but some Nepenthes can handle it lower. My temps are similar to yours. What are your outdoor parameters like? You'd probably have success outdoors.
  6. I'm not familiar with the other 2, but Rebecca Soper grows well as an intermediate and in less light than my other plants. It should do well in an eastern window or under lights. I grow it is a mix of coarse perlite, charcoal, and bark, and LFS, but it would likely do well in peat with about 60% perlite added. I keep it constantly damp and it needs/takes pruning, frequently.
  7. I have humidity above 90% and temps are controlled by a thermostat, connected to a chest freezer. Lighting is 6 HO T5s, on for 12 hours per day, and I use RO water, from my own system. I do add a few granules of Osmocote to every pot, about 7-10 granules per 3-4" pot. I added laterite to my northiana and rajah mix, today and hope to see some improvement in northiana. Of course, I'm growing northiana in warmer conditions, but I've had it for almost 3 years and it struggled at room temperatures and it was nearly dead, when it was given to me, having lost all of it's roots, from drying out, on the greenhouse, where it came from. It seems to be doing better, in warmer conditions and inside of a dome.
  8. N.mikei and N.hamata have newly forming pitchers and every plant in my new hoard has shown new growth, since arriving in Novemeber. So far, results are encouraging.
  9. I thought about using bat guano. I imagine it's very similar in composition to tree shrew poo. Currently, I've been using Osmocote granules and very occasional MaxSea foliar feeding, and the hapless stink bug or spider. I plan to try coffee spraying soon, but I wait for plants to show new growth, before proceeding with more nutrients.
  10. I've done a lot of reading about this plant and while everyone agrees it's difficult, the people that have success seem to be doing so in fairly ordinary mixes and typical highland conditions. If you can provide bright light, warm days (25-28C) and cool nights (11-14C), with 90%+ humidity, and a free draining mix, what other obstacles are there? I am considering adding laterite to its mix, at some point.
  11. I placed U.reniformis in my highland cooler and changed its mix to LFS and extra coarse perlite. In the 3 weeks it's been in the chamber, it's sent up 2 new leaves. It would seem the plant can survive household temperatures, but does much better treated as a highland Nepenthes. Interestingly, when I first acquired it, it never gave much in the way of leaves, but I grew it sitting in a tray of water and it filled the tray with white, aquatic stems and traps. After that, it just seemed to slow down and never produced the aquatic growth again. I reported it and tried growing it out of water, but kept moist and did no better. I have it sitting on a platform, in the middle of a deep container of water, but with just the bottom of the pot slightly in contact with the water, so it will be interesting to see what it does, now that it is active, again.
  12. Thanks! I just might try it.
  13. I have read that Nepenthes seed can prove to lose viability quickly. Others claim that refrigerated seeds last for years. Assuming the seeds were stored in average household conditions, would you gamble on rajah seeds harvest in August? I really want this species and it is not otherwise available with any frequency or under $230 USD, in the states.
  14. I might be late to the party, but more details will help narrow done your options. One detail would be how often are you willing to invest the time to water? There are simple, cheap, automated watering solutions, that can last 2-4 weeks, before needing refilled. I, for example, use a very porous mix and utilize a 4 ply strand of acrylic yarn, sometimes doubled over for larger pots over 5", tie a knot in one end, soak it in water, thread it through the bottom of the pot, diagonally through the center and overhand the opposite lip. Pot up the Nepenthes, and bury the overhanginging end coiled lightly on top of the root ball and cover with media. Use an appropriate sized reservoir, such as disposable plastic food container, cut a hole in the lid and set your pot on top, with the knotted yarn dangling in the water. I water all my potted plants this way and it works well for plants with established root systems. Small plants, like seedlings could be kept too wet, so these are potted the same way, but have the yarn taken out of water, for several days, to allow some drying of the potting mix. You can also add small doses of MaxSea or whatever you want to the water for constant, light feeding.
  15. I agree, I'd always opt for potted, but then I usually opt to repot, since the growing media is often not conducive to my watering methods. I notice hamata is losing the pitchers it arrived with, though much more slowly than mikei, while the rest of the plant and newly forming traps look fine. This is my first batch of highlanders, so I'm hovering like a nervous mother.