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lesthegringo last won the day on June 18 2016

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  1. *Update* My Maxima, Sibuyanensis X Maxima, Truncata (Ventricosa X Trusmadiensis) , Nepenthes veitchii x burbidgeae, Nepenthes truncata x mira and Nepenthes Truncata striped x Insignis Biak have all either started producing basals, or dormant nodes on the stems are budding, or both
  2. Growing CP's and having a job where you get moved around is a frustrating thing. I've been given the heads up that I will be moving on at the turn of the year, so now I am in my last 9 months with these particular plants. Sad to say that over the next few months I will be selling them on, and some lucky people will be able to take away some very large and beautiful plants. I plan to give some to some local schools too, to try and encourage youngsters to have some interests in something beautiful that does not involve a PlayStation or Xbox. Nonetheless, I will feel a pain every time one of
  3. So a few months on from my last post, I am now convinced that the live sphagnum method is the best for the seedlings, at least the ones I have managed to grow. The ones on sphagnum are way ahead of the ones on other media, although to be fair the sphagnum is actually growing on the same media, it just acts as an extra layer separating the two. It seems to make sure that the humidity and wetness levels are good and constant. I would say that losses of seedlings is probably equal between the two media, but some of my 18 month old seedlings are 8cm across in the sphagnum, and only 1 to 1.5 in the
  4. Mine have plenty of room for the roots and the bottom of the greenhouse gets down to just below 10 deg C in winter; growth definitely stopped during August and September. Got some lovely leaves and I can see lots of the white thick roots spreading around, but they don't have anything to limit them. May have to try putting some in a smaller pot to see what happens Les
  5. From my experience over the last year, I think that in warm conditions adult plants are pretty tolerant of perhaps overwet onditions as long as the excess is allowed to drain away or as Manders says, in a deep enough pot to keep the pooled water away from the roots. Seems preferable to the potential of them drying out too. When it comes to seedlings I think slightly drier is better, I'm pretty sure that I lost quite a few seedlings through them being too wet. While the substrate on which they germinated seemed less important, most of the ones that have done well are growing on live sphag
  6. Guys, I have a reasonable number of Nepenthes plants, most purchased from specialist traders. I have a few species, but most are hybrids, with quite a few being hybrids of hybrids too. You buy them often because of the interesting mix, or in some cases because they will supposedly produce large showy pitchers. When all is said and done they are all nice, but truth be told, some of them were purchase because you hope that the plant will have particular characteristics. Truncata and its hybrids are a favourite of mine due to the impressive pitchers. Veichii and it's hybrids give great colou
  7. I have lots of U reniformis growing very happily in sphagnum in a number of places in my nepenthes house, with leaves three inches across. Not a single flower though. Is there any trick to getting them to bloom? Cheers Les
  8. Over here in Australia I can get an imidocloprid based insecticide in a spray that I have used on droseras, dioneias, nepenthes, sarracenis, utricularia, heliamphora and cephalotus without any ill effects Cheers Les
  9. ***sorry about the weird formatting of this message, despite closing IE and logging out, every time I went to reply to this the draft message was still there and could not be deleted!*** So, the following don't seem to show any propensity to want to produce basal shoots (those with an asterisk I think would be too small, those in bold are pretty big plants) Nepenthes (eymae x maxima) x platychila Nepenthes (lowii x veitchii)-yellow x (boschiana x campanulata) Nepenthes Hamata * Nepenthes Maxima Nepenthes Raf
  10. Interesting discussion guys. As for which do and which don't, I have to list them; off to the greenhouse I go! Cheers Les
  11. Thanks Manders. I can attest to the theory being at best dubious, as my (for example ) N Sibuyanensis x Boschiana fits firmly into that category and despite being a healthy vigorous plant is not sending out shoots. Others in my collection have five or six but the stems go up and entwine on the string lattice strung across the roof of the greenhouse. Curiously the biggest offender is my N Maxima, which I always believed to be one that was renowned for sending out shoots. Instead it has a four foot vine with lovely upper pitchers but stubbornly refuses to put any other growth out. G
  12. Guys, a couple of my nepenthes have vined, and are producing some nice upper pitchers. As there is only one growing point, of course they have stopped producing the lower pitchers, which in some cases are more showy than the uppers. So, I don’t want to cut off the growing point, as this will stop the upper pitchers for at least a few months, but would like some basal shoots to appear, as they have in some of the other plants. Is there a way of inducing them without drastic surgery? I know that cutting the tip will give you a cutting you can root, but right now I am happy with the quantity
  13. Bit of a more positive update today, at least when it comes to the Alata cuttings. I'll have get photosclater but all the cuttings that are not growing tip cuttings have growth from the axillary buds, about half an inch to an inch long depending on the cutting. I haven't exposed the root area of the cuttings yet, I'm in no hurry and don't want to rink them through rash action. The two cuttings that were from the growing tips are still alive and apparently well, however no new growth is yet evident. Again, I'll just leave them to it and see how they go. I suspect the lower winter temperat
  14. It's been two months since making the cuttings and I'm here to report... well, nothing really. None of the cuttings look even the slightest bit different, there are no growing buds from the dormant points, and there are no roots growing on the cuttings. That goes for the arial cuttings too. Going to leave it, obviously, but a little surprised to see absolutely no change. I'll give another update in a month or so Les
  15. Sort of surprised that there were no answers to this. For info, I noticed that while my plants continued to produce pitchers, on the plants that seem to be slightly more affected by the drop in growing temps, virtually all the older pitchers (i.e. any that were produced even immediately before the temperatures dropped) went black at the top; not browning off like the normal pitcher ageing process, they literally blacken and quickly too. However new pitchers that form while being smaller are not as sensitive, and have not browned or blackened. These plants don't show any other particular tr