naoki

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Everything posted by naoki

  1. Keith, are you interested in pH (and/or EC) of potting soil? If so, you can use regular pH and EC meter with pour-through method: http://www.greenhousegrower.com/production/crop-inputs/test-media-ph-and-ec-with-the-21-technique-pour-through-method-and-saturated-media-extract-methods/ Or are you talking about more complete tests with mineral contents, organic matters, texture etc? For those, I think most people send the samples to a lab.
  2. The ones (ORSV, CymMV) which we worry about are not air-borne virus fortunately. It is believed that they are primary transmitted by sap sharing which could be done by human or insects. Insect vector is somewhat specific to virus and insect species. Fortunately ORSV and CymMV is less likely to be transmitted by insects. But others like BYMV, CMV, CymMV etc can be transmitted by aphids. OFV can be transmited by some mites. So unless you have sap sucking insects in your grow area, neighboring plant may not be infected. According to: Inouye, N (2008). Viruses of orchids : symptom
  3. Yossu, if you have only one orchid, dipping in water is a good way. But if you share the water for multiple orchids, it is a sure way to spread virus. It is ok if they dry out quick, it is better since it is easier to control the quick-drying media than retentive ones in that way. I'm not sure what kinds of orchids, but roots get killed if they are continuously wet (due to lack of oxygen). Most people just top water with fertilizer. Many of the common ones are epiphytes. So the velamen cells, dead outer (epidermis) cells, act like sponges, and capture the water and minerals quick
  4. Utricularia blanchetii is a Brazillian terrestrial Utricularia with a limited genographic distribution (central Bahia). It seems to be ok with fairly low light (phototynthetic photon flux density, PPFD, of about 150 ┬Ámol/m^2/s). Here is the link to my Orchid Borealis blog post with a bit more info. It is interesting one of Japanese books mentions that the flower has the fragrance similar to Vanilla, but my plant doesn't have any. Does it usually have the fragrance? Utricularia blanchetii on Flickr Utricularia blanchetii on Flickr Utricularia blanchetii on Flickr
  5. I wish it were the case with regard to peer-review, but in terms of nomenclature, peer-review is not required. I was pretty surprised about it. But there are some requirements such as ISSN. http://www.iapt-taxon.org/nomen/main.php?page=art29 I agree with the second point. We are trying to make the hierarchical system of classification consistent with the evolutionary history. We are still long way to go. Even though monophyly is a bit arbitrary criteria, it is a convenient one. I wouldn't call forma as a taxonomic unit, but it can be a unit in nomenclature. Note well that nomencla
  6. pH of pour-through water is probably more telling than the pH of RO. In other words, pH of the root zone is influenced more heavily by the types of media than the water since the RO water doesn't have many ions.
  7. Thanks, Martin. I checked P-touch Editor (ver. 5.1.010) on Mac, but I couldn't find any 'chain' print option. Do you use a different software?
  8. Since you mentioned assembling, I'm assuming that you are interested in DIY grow light. I'm not familiar with European market, but don't you have digi-key, Mouser etc? When you search for parts in octopart.com, I occasionally see European vendor, so you might want to check there. I know Cutter can ship internationally. They carry both Cree and Bridgelux. They have good reputation, and their price is pretty competitive. http://www.cutter.com.au If you are going for COB, Bridgelux Vero or V series generation 7 is currently the best deal. Usually, using some cheap Chinese COB f
  9. Don't the shoots appeared near the ground in your example produce lower pitchers? Or do they behave differently? Well, auxins, cytokinins, ethylene, and strigolacton interacts to release the lateral buds, so cytokinins are involved. But it would be interesting if the mechanism is different.
  10. I'm simply stating that the hypothesis isn't garbage as you stated here, and there is some scientific background. Sometime people make a big statement that something is bogus because they don't know enough about the topic. I didn't know if it works with Nepenthes as I mentioned (as far as I know, there isn't any research about Nepenthes apical dominance), but your anecdotal example seems to show that it does work. That's cool!
  11. Oh, I see. You are misunderstanding the transport of auxins. There are several ways to transport auxins. You are focusing on the polar (directional) transport through parenchyma cells in the cortex (cells outside of the vascular cylinder). This is relatively short-distance transportation. Auxins are required for the branching of roots as you mentioned. For this kind of long distance transport, auxins from shoots are transported to the root tips via phloem. Once they reach to the root tips, then they go through the basipetal polar transport. "Basipetal" direction is the direction toward
  12. Well, I don't think we completely understand the hormonal regulation of this phenomenon. But the inversion-induced release of apical dominance occurs in many plants, and it has been studied quite a bit. It has been shown that the speed of polar transport of auxins get slowed down when the shoot gets inverted (which makes sense if you think about how auxins influence gravitropism). Also, in the inverted region, it has been shown that the ethylene is produced. But it appears that there are other mechanisms involved in the release. Here is a relatively new paper about this: http://pcp.oxford
  13. Ignacio, I don't know about this particular model. As usual, they don't have enough specification, but it is unlikely that it is efficient. I would rather go with linear fluorescent like T8, T5, or T5HO. Plants will grow if you give enough light, but these cheap LEDs will be expensive in a long term. A lot of people goes with cheap LEDs, but it is a false economy. There is a trade-off between the initial price and the efficiency due to the property of LEDs as I mentioned in the blog posts. Also the price seems to be high. These are from China, and you can probably get the same one
  14. Looks very nice, manders! Richard, I don't have any experience with Genlisea, but 2 bulbs of T5HO is probably good for 70cm x 30-40cm area for the others. Maybe you can keep it about 30cm or less above the leaves. From 1 bulb, you'll get about 70 micromol/m^2/s of photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD) (about 410 footcandle) at 30cm. So from 2, you'll be getting above 100 micromol/m^2/s. It isn't a lot for Drosera, but it will do ok. My Utricularia seems to do ok with less light than typical Drosera.
  15. Happy Thanksgiving (at least in the US)! Another DIY LED update. I made a plastic container based grow space. I used Samsung H series LED linear modules this time. This module was announced in Summer 2016, but it started to ship in October. This Samsung basically beats Philips XF-3535L (I posted about this previously) in all aspects. It has amazing efficacy (187lm/W), even higher than most COB LEDs. I haven't calculated the PAR efficiency, but I'm pretty sure there is no commercially available grow light with this high efficiency. It is a bit more expensive per light output than COB
  16. Richard, you probably need to give a bit more info so others can reply. What is the size of grow area, how far is the plant from the lamps, what kind of light (it looks funky, but is it 24W T5HO?), what kinds of plants etc.
  17. Bill, if you are looking for a really good weather station, lots of people trust Davis Weather Station. Vantage Vue is the more affordable one. http://www.davisnet.com/weather-monitoring/ I'm not sure if AcuRite is available in Europe, but AcuRite Pro 5-in-1 Weather station is much cheaper. It is not the same level as Davis, but people do have fun with it. https://www.acurite.com If you want to log just simple things like temperature and humidity (e.g., to monitor different grow space), you can make wi-fi based logger cheaply with ESP8266 (or aruduino) and Raspberry Pi (o
  18. Stu, yes, individual LEDs are nice because they create more scattered light. But COB LEDs are much cheaper (and easier). JMHoff, indeed we do. I killed all of my orchids when I moved up to Alaska until I learned to grow them in a different way.
  19. I've made blog posts related to DIY LED grow light. I've been growing orchids for a while. I have less experience with carnivorous plants, but I do grow 100 or so CP species. I think the post is also useful for CP growing, so here are the links. I'm not familiar with the European market (cost of components and electricity), but you could save lots of money with high efficiency DIY LEDs. Hopefully, it could be useful for some people here. Basics of LED drivers DIY COB LEDs The followings aren't about COB LEDs, but other easy DIY LEDs: XF-3535L High efficiency Sunrit
  20. Duplicate post for some unknown reason. Is it possible to delete this thread?
  21. We are getting 6 hour 25 minutes of day light today, and it will be shorter by 6 minutes 32 seconds shorter tomorrow. So it's getting darker and darker. But we get the magical golden light during the day (it's basically like sunset all day long). This Australian tuberous Drosera, Drosera menziesii, was particularly looking pretty under this light, so I snapped a couple photos. I just received the tuber this summer, and this is the first time I'm growing a tuberous Drosera. The following two photos are with mostly natural light. Drosera menziesii on Flickr Drosera menziesii on F
  22. As a biologist, I agree with most things there. But at least in English, the definition of "a clone" includes "a ramet" nowadays. In some contexts, a clone doesn't mean a ramet (e.g. in molecular cloning, where you insert genes in plasmids and replicate them in E. coli. A clone ). But a ramet is always a clone. So nothing is wrong with calling an asexually reproduced individual a clone.
  23. I'm also starting with European Pinguicula. Do you think the peat based media, which has fairly low pH, works with species growing in calcareous/alkaline soil? For example, Pinguicula dertosensis, P. longifolia subsp. causensis, P. poldinii etc. This page ([url=http://www.pinguicula.org/pages/plantes/pinguicula_dertosensis.htm]link[/url]) suggests fairly complicated, mineral based substrate. But I can't find those in the US. So I'm wondering if some of you might have tried something simpler, and worked.
  24. Thank you very much for detailed info! I'll give it a try when I get some time.
  25. Thanks, I've tried some cheaper ones, too, but that's too bad the setting can't be changed.