Yossu
-
Posts
1,027 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
16
Content Type
Profiles
Events
Forums
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Yossu
-
-
On 12/3/2016 at 11:30 AM, manders said:
Theres a lot more activity on facebook, but I agree with the comments that its all fairly superficial. Good for posting photos and trading stuff but very little depth.
Have you tried Terraforums? Seems to be a bit like this place used to be, only international.
-
1
-
-
On 12/2/2016 at 6:48 PM, Deltatango301 said:
Especially when your mother bought it for you lol
Ah, you've met my mother then have you?
-
I reckon your plant will be fine in there until it starts to grow too big. I have one of these, and the vines are about four or five feet long! You can worry about that when it happens though
You don't actually need either of those trays though. You can sit the pot directly on the gravel, and when you water the plant, any excess will drain through to the gravel. As long as you make sure the water level stays just below the surface of the gravel, your plant will be happy (no roots sitting in water) and you'll have enough humidity.
As for feeding, I wouldn't feed it anything solid. Make sure the pitchers are about half-full of water, and it should be fine. If you want to boost growth, drop some half-strength seaweed based fertiliser into the pitchers once a month. Most people don't recommend feeding their CPs, but if you're careful, it can help.
Hope that helps
-
I bought a 220 litre water butt from B&Q for about £30. One of the best CP-related investments I made
-
OK, thanks, I'll contemplate the matter. Might take a look at the international forum, see if that's any more active before I lower myself to join FB!
-
Just now, Picavorus said:
Yossu, you do need to log in to Facebook before you can see anything unfortunately
Thought so. Ho hum.
Assuming I decide to join, how would I find the CP bit? never used FB at all (as you can tell!), so no idea.
Thanks for the news, sad though it is.
-
Can you provide a link to this? As I said before, whenever I go to FB, I just get a log-in page. I'd like to see what there is there before giving them any details.
That's assuming you can see anything without logging in of course!
-
Thanks to all of you. It's already in the greenhouse, so I'll probably just repot it and leave it at that. I like the plant, and don't want to risk losing it.
-
My mother bought me a S. Barba that she saw in a garden centre (aren't mothers great?). It's been sitting under some growlights in our spare room, as it was too nice to put out into the greenhouse. I know, silly me, but we know that!
Anyway, it's just gone into the greenhouse for the winter. I was reading The Savage Garden, and he mentions that you can split Sarras either at the beginning of the winter, or the beginning of spring. Given how much this has grown since I got it, I was wondering about splitting it.
Anyone able to advise if it's a good idea to split it at all (i have no idea what's going on underneath, and don't want to disturb it unless I'm sure it's worth splitting) and if so, when would be the best time to do it.
Thanks
-
Thanks for the reply. I do have a jewel orchid, although not specifically that type, but it's already a bit big for the bowl.
-
6 hours ago, David Ahrens said:
The trouble is with Neps is that they like free draining compost. You would have to be careful with the watering.
You could try a Cephalotus, I have seen them growing in a similar situation.
I've seen people put pebbles in the bottom of such a bowl, and add water to just below the level of the pebbles. That allows you to keep the nep above the water, add water from the top, and have the excess drain in between the pebbles. The water below keep sup the humidity. That was my plan, if I were to put a nep in there.
However, a ceph is a good idea. That's the other main gap in my collection. As they grow slowly (from what I understand), if I got one that was just a bit too small for the bowl, it would look fine and not outgrow it for some time. Have to look more into that one, thanks for the suggestion.
-
1 minute ago, Gaz said:
Pings might be worth a try. Always found indoor heating dries the air out too much for them, your bowl might solve that problem.
Hmm, that's an interesting idea. Don't have any pings yet. Do you have any recommendation for an easy one?
I was also wondering about a small nep. I have three of the Asda ones, which might go nicely in there.
Thanks
-
2 hours ago, tatter said:
Goldfish ? lol jim
Not given my success with goldfish!
-
1 hour ago, ada said:
i'd say going dormant would be a massive clue
Hee hee, can't argue with that!
-
1 hour ago, Alexis said:
It needs to be 6C for photosynthesis to take place (and light), so with a dark December and cold January and February, I doubt they photosynthesise much at all over the winter in this country.
Well cut off both my legs and call me Shorty! I never knew that. Thanks for the info.
-
5 minutes ago, Nigel H-C said:
I cut them back for convenience sake as it takes around six weeks to do. It also removes any dead growth in the nursery and means I only need to do the job once. With around 8000 sarrys in the greenhouse i need to run a tight ship. It doesn't affect the plants negatively.
Ah, I guess that answers it! I have a rather more modest set up, with maybe 60 decent-sized sarras, so not quite such a big job!
-
1 minute ago, corky said:
I don't grow d. Intermedia, but you may of had the wrong information, there are both tropical and temperate forms, just a thought maybe this caused some confusion
Hmm, so how would I know which I have?
-
Thanks for the reply.
I actually did do my homework. Before last winter, I posted here asking which of my plants needed to go dormant (that was before I had a greenhouse, and all were inside). I'm sure I was told that this one should be kept indoors as it didn't go dormant.
Having said that, I just checked The Savage Garden, and he says quite clearly they do need to go dormant, so either I was misinformed, or I got it wrong!
So, out into the greenhouse it goes. Looks like I better check up on the rest of my plants and make sure I've got it right with them too. My current understanding is that the following should/can stay indoors all year round...
- All nepenthes
- D. Aliciea
- D. Spatulata
- D. Madagascarii
- D. nidiformis
- All heliamphora
Any comments on that? Those are the one I have indoors. The greenhouse is mainly sarras, D. California, VFTs and various Drosera that need dormancy, such as capensis and binata.
Thanks again.
-
Hmm, just did some reading, and it looks like I might be giving it the wrong conditions anyway. I was told to keep it indoors as it didn't require dormancy, but this page seems to say they should be grown in a greenhouse and need to go dormant.
Please can you clarify this? I want to make sure I'm growing it correctly. Thanks again.
-
1 minute ago, ada said:
Its gone dormant for winter.Temperate drosera do that,same as anglica and rotundiflora.
But it did this in the middle of the summer! I could understand it if the plant was outside, or if the weather had gone colder, but it started growing again fairly quickly after that really hot spell, and the weather remained warm with long summer days for a good two months afterwards.
Not saying you're wrong, I'm a mere beginner compared to you, but I'm just very surprised at the suggestion. Thanks for the reply.
-
One of my favourite plants was my D. Intermedia, which was growing very nicely a few months ago. Then the hot weather kicked in, and it dried up. I noticed some new growth, so wasn't worried. However, it's now been about three months since I saw that, and it hasn't grown any further.
Anyone any suggestions? As you can see form the second picture, there are several new growth points, they just aren't doing anything.
-
Went into Tesco the other day, and saw this glass bowl. It's about 9" diameter across the widest part. Looked too good to leave on the shelf, and I bought it in a fit of impulsiveness!
Any suggestions as to what I could grow in it?
-
On 10/28/2016 at 10:58 AM, Stu said:
Very true. Not only that but quite commonly with cheap LEDs (especially the 'cob' type), you may find that a few of the individual LEDs making up the matrix are broken/inactive. You'd not be able to see this with your eyes (blinded by the others), but if you photograph the light (on) and dramatically reduce the exposure on the camera/phone, you should be able to make out the individual bulbs and whether they are lit or not!
I tried using a normal camera, then used a photo editing package to reduce the brightness to almost zero, and all LEDs looked to be at the same intensity, so it looks like they are OK. Thanks for the tip anyway.
-
On 10/27/2016 at 6:40 PM, mobile said:
@Yossu, your eyes would not be the best measure of intensity. Do you have a smartphone, if so there might be a light meter app you could install, they are not the most accurate but would suffice for a comparison? Also, I strongly suspect that the supposed 36W LED lamp will not be running at that power. It is not uncommon for manufacturers to state the maximum potential power but omit to state the actual. 36W LED lamps are often made up of 12 3W LEDs, but it's rare that they are actually run at 3W as this would cause them to overheat due to inadequate heat management.
I tried a light meter app, and it showed the CFLs to output about the same amount of light as the LEDs, albeit with the CFLs spreading the light over a wider area (ie illuminating more plants at the same intensity).
Given the size and cost of these bulbs, I can't see much benefit over CFLs, other than the supposed lower running costs. Not sure how much that would actually be a benefit compared to the significantly higher cost of buying the bulbs, and the fact that I would need more of them to illuminate the same area
Where is everyone?
in General Carnivorous Plant Discussion
Posted · Edited by Yossu
Have you tried Terraforums? Seems to be a bit like this place used to be, only international.
Whoops, silly forum posted the reply twice! You only need to read it once