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Goreneko last won the day on September 26 2015

Goreneko had the most liked content!

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    Plants, gardening, magic, theatre

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  1. Hi! After some time, how did it go?
  2. I'm wondering if you ever managed to source a SD Kronos.

    Came across old messages of yours from 2016.

  3. Hi! SOme time ago I read somewhere that some nepenthes need to put the base of their pitcher on the ground so that they can start develop it. And that is the reason why some growers put sphagnum pots around their nepenthes pots. The problem is that I don't remember where I read that. Can anybody confirm that this really exists and if there is an article with the species that need this to grow pitchers? Thanks!
  4. It was recently indeed, but the rest of Nepenthes has been correctly acclimated. The thing is that these black dots make me think of fungus more than lack of humidity.
  5. This post makes me afraid that I caught this fungus. Is it any similar to this? https://www.facebook.com/groups/planetcarninivorous/permalink/1373450532673510/ I posted my problem in that facebook post but no mention to fungus.
  6. Carniflora is the nursery that only produces pinguicula tina and pinguicula weser. Maybe he told you the wrong shop.
  7. I also join to honor this shop's reputation. I have always been treated correctly and patiently. The plants I've received are what it says in the shop and he also delivers very good extras, that usually cover the shipping cost. He is also very understanding in my special requests, as the post in my country is shitty and I always need tracking number in order to claim. I cannot complaint because the plants arrive in bad condition due to long shipping terms. Here you are another happy customer. I hope you can deal with that bad person and don't be discouraged for that.
  8. Thanks, Guillem. I'll try to watch the humidity and not being so paranoic with the temperature drop, that was what I was worried about.
  9. Thanks for your advice. Mine is currently under lowland conditions (20C-24C day and night) and is also growing great. So far it has opened one pitcher and is in the process of "inflating" some more. Would you reccommend to give it colder temps at night? I have some doubt also regarding N. Reinwardtiana. I have also put it in my lowland terrarium and is doing new leaves but the tips (where the pitcher should form) turns black. Is N. Reinwardtiana highland? I've found quite contradictory information. So far, these are the faster acclimating plants. The others are still in acclimation process.
  10. Hello! Since Borneo Exotics has released a great lot of Nepenthes hybrids, there are a number of them for which there is little or no cultivation information. It is generally known that a hybrid between a Highlander and a Lowlander should be cultivated as an "intermediate". This means that the plant can stand conditions for both highland and lowland. However, I don't know wether this applies on 100% of the cases or if it is a general supposition. Nepenthes Ampullaria x Aristolochioides would be one of these hybrids, in which N. Ampullaria, usually a lowlander, has been hybrided with a highlander N. Aristolochioides. And I would place it with my ventrata, as an intermediate Nepenthes, but I don't know wether it will be good in those condicions (basically, winter temp 5-15ºC, nights might be cooler, but not always. Summer temp 20-35ºC, nights 20-25ºC). Does anyone have general advice regarding cultivation of these new hybrids?
  11. I have been lately discussing with some colleages about coloration on the inside of the traps. We have had some dionaeas coming from garden centers with great inside coloration, bright red or almost burgundy, but this red coloration slowly fades to green. We have tried cultivating them in full sun and also in partial shade, but anyways, the plants turn to green. All other dionaea are getting now their red coloration, even though they have been in full sun in summer, more than 7 or 8 hours. I have noticed that full sun eases trap development and increases growth, but not inside trap coloration. Not all dionaea are getting full red coloration they should, such as b-52, which is now getting an orange-ish hue. So, what is the "trick" to get a nice red colored flytrap? The only dionaeas that are nice red are red sawtooth and red dragon, although not completely red. I have read here and there many theories such as lack of humidity, excess of food or lack of sunlight. I was just wondering whether any new information has been released lately. Regards! Enviado desde mi iPad utilizando Tapatalk
  12. I've had bad experience with cheap grow lights because they lose intensity within a month or so, that is why I want to make sure I buy something with more quality?.. Enviado desde mi iPad utilizando Tapatalk
  13. Hi all! Yesterday, while I was walking through my local Ikea, i saw these grow led lights: http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/70333454/ I was wondering wether somebody has had some experience with them and also I haven't been able to find information regarding light intensity and temperature, only that measure of "amount of light per second". Do you think the will be suitable to germinate and grow dionea, sarracenia and all that? Thanks!
  14. Goreneko


    Hi! How old is this plant? Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk
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