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NepXGorgicus last won the day on February 25 2015

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  1. This D. regia is perking up in a rather nice way! It now produces one functional carnivorous leaf after another without any fuss. I'm never going to try fertilizing this thing again, despite the sources that say it can be done. I hope now it will only continue to grow and thrive. I want a big monsterpus like some of the D. regias posted earlier. This will be my final follow-up photo in this thread. For additional pictures of this plant you can check my catch-all picture thread here:
  2. And now the moment you've all anxiously been waiting for! A much healthier D. regia: It's night time so I had to bring it indoors in order to get a decent picture, but I'd say it looks much healthier now than it did before! It's got functional carnivorous leaves, and everything!
  3. Hahaha, my little guy is getting there. I'm just lucky to have functional carnivorous leaves at this point!
  4. Hey everyone, here's some followup: The last three leaves my D. regia have produced have all had at least 50% of the leaf covered in functional carnivorous hairs with dew and everything. This is a marked improvement from the barren, barely functional, quickly blackening leaves that were being produced before. It's now even catching some prey on its own! Thanks for the advice, everyone! A little more shade, a flush of pure water, and no fertilizer whatsoever put the plant in a much happier state of being.
  5. Okay. We're past the frost season. I'm thinking I'll keep it outside for spring thru fall and when it starts to frost I'll bring it inside. Thanks!
  6. Hey people. Just a quick, relatively simple question. I live in a climate zone 9B. Can my U. longifolia grow outdoors here? This link says it should be able to hack it, but I want a second opinion because it is the only link I have found that doesn't simply refer to it as, "Tropical". I can grow it in my intermediate-highland Nepenthes setup, but I would prefer to keep the little guy outside. I look forward to your input! Thanks in advance.
  7. I have an intermediate-highlander setup with minimum temperatures similar to yours. Unless you have an ultrahighland species like N. rajah, lowii, edwardsiana, villosa, macrophylla, singalana, diatas, or some other upper-end highlander or ultrahighlander a drop into the 16-19C range is fine. The only plant that argues with my setup is my Nepenthes singalana, which is also the highest-growing species I have. I've got a N. spectabilis, N. ovata, N. bongso, N. stenophylla, and a N. muluensis x lowii that pitcher in such conditions (As well as some others.). I would say it is more important to acclimate them effectively than it is to get that real sharp temperature drop to 11-13C. Unless you're trying to grow one of the ultrahighlanders I mentioned earlier, chances are you're probably fine if you can't get the temps to drop any lower than that conveniently. Especially if you keep the humidity high. My Nepenthes setup is in the same room where I sleep, so getting under like 15-16C gets pretty uncomfortable for me.
  8. I ran into a stroke of mixed, but mostly good luck today. I ordered a Sarracenia oreophila "UCB x Sand Mountain". I received this: Well, it's got some Sarracenia oreophila "Sand Mountain" genes in it, but it definitely wasn't the plant I ordered. I emailed the seller about it, and their reply said that they were re-sending my order and that I could keep this hybrid because of the confusion. So it appears I have an unexpected addition to my collection, today! Patience does have its virtues.
  9. I like the talangensis hybrid! I have really been digging the hybrids that species makes.
  10. My Nepenthes muluensis x lowii is actually doing exactly this right now, producing two pitchers out of order. I think it had something to do with it being replanted (received bare root) and moved into my care when I ordered it. Also, not all species of Nepenthes will cease to produce pitchers if there is nothing to grapple on. My N. ventricosa and N. spectabilis 'giant' (the one I used to have a few years ago that didn't survive the move), would pitcher happily in such a manner, but N. maxima is sometimes more reluctant. D.E. is right, hybrids generally will pitcher anyway.
  11. I'm still not sure what's going on in this thread, but somehow I managed to get the advice I needed, so I'm not complaining.
  12. Got a fresh round of pictures for your viewing pleasure. D. muscipula 'Typical' First S. flava pitcher of the season! S. purpurea 'Venosa' N. fusca 'Mamut' and U. sandersonii in same pot - just after watering. N. veitchii x platychila N. burkei x hamata And the best for last... N. muluensis x lowii Nepenthes truncata 'Pasian Highland'
  13. Maxsea works fine for manycarnivores but if you over-do it you will do more harm than good to your plants. I use 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water (sorry for you metric users). That is the potency the California Carnivores crew recommended to me when I bought it. I hear Maxsea actually works quite well for Pings as well.
  14. I would actually be interested in seeing those as well. My D. regia is making some progress, it sped up a little bit after I flushed it. I definitely did more harm than good by trying the Maxsea. >_> It looks like one of the leaves kinda has some dew on it... kinda. Not really enough to catch a bug but I consider it technically progress. Maybe the new leaves will look a little better. You guys have been a lot of help. Even though Fred and Dave may not necessarily agree with each other, I appropriated both their advice where I saw fit, and it seems to be working slowly but surely! It continues to produce new growth, so hopefully this summer it will fully establish itself.
  15. Here's my impression of how this thread is going. FredG, assuming I have flushed out my D. regia adequately to make absolutely sure incorrect fertilization isn't the problem, do you think that sunburn / overheated roots might be a problem as Dave Evans is suggesting, or no?