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partisangardener last won the day on November 2 2016

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  1. partisangardener

    Does white mold / mildew kill seeds?

    White mold is quite often some ordinary mushroom mycel. Probably there is no common answer. It depends. In non carnovorous plants it helps sometimes even to germinate(break dormancy). In some its absolutely necessary like many of the orchids. Different plants interact with different mycel. I had germination in some hardy Drosera and some Sarracenia which had white mold on them. With drosera only little germination. Under controlled conditions mold starts with me on dead or empty seeds.
  2. partisangardener

    Please Help, my drosera is dying

    It is likely that you will have more fungus. If there are new sprouts humidity is enough. If the fungus is Botrytis you could use a spray. But I think it will pull through at any rate.
  3. partisangardener

    Sarracenia species

    This is some kind of Hybrid. Nobody will be able to tell whats in it.
  4. partisangardener

    layer propagation of Drosophyllum

    The roots did not grow out of the planter jet. But there must be roots. 5 weeks now without any is absolutely impossible. I would have left it longer attached to the mother. It was an accident, while taking it out of the car trunk. The little stump in the pot is the rest of the old stem that was alive at the time it was ripped off, now completely dry. They are quite easy under my conditions. Just above Drosera capensis level.
  5. partisangardener

    layer propagation of Drosophyllum

    I started this attempt late spring this year. It seems to work
  6. partisangardener

    My cephalotus follicularis are looking healthy!

    Instant death (within a few days) is a fungus infection of the roots. There are other issues but they are usually slower. Crow rot (usually ended through repotting) is maybe a Boron deficiency. It seems to be quite common. I never had any problems apart from a few aphids the first year, which really did no damage. I hope it stays that way. I have now quite a few and own seedlings too.
  7. partisangardener

    Drosophyllum progress

    My oldest ones are growing since winter 2014/15 and always water in the tray. It’s the natural rainy season. With keeping them on the dry side they usually die after the first flowering season. Mine flower three to four times a year with no ill effect. One pot even survived repotting this spring. The water in the tray has sometimes ice on top in the winter.
  8. partisangardener

    My cephalotus follicularis are looking healthy!

    I have Cephalotus only for a few years. When it gets colder, they slow down their growth, but if the temperature rises above 5 C° during the day, they grow through all the winter. In the wild there will be no dormancy at all then. They slow down a bit. A cooler period with shorter days is the trigger for normal leafs and flowering the next Spring/Summer.
  9. partisangardener

    cephalotus follicularis on sale locally

    Cephalotus tends to get more and better with age. You will never later being accused of harassment for looking at a Cephalotus.
  10. partisangardener

    Help/ Opinion on baby Ceph clumps

    Looks good your setup. It is dangerous to keep them in the sunshine with covering. Boiled are all plants dead. Shading is good. The pots are my own creation; the first ones are out of a special mixture. But I have now some out of normal lime free ceramic working well. Make a lot of holes in the side with a stick for aeration. Structure it with a fork. With normal clay I use something to suck up the water into the substrate. Works good and you can leave it in a tray with water. With the waterline below the substrate.
  11. partisangardener

    Help/ Opinion on baby Ceph clumps

    I water them from above and in the tray. Makes no difference so far. Some where kept very wet in plastic pots (in winter too) and some in my special Ceramic pots where they cant get too wet. Since Photobucket has obliterated my photos I lcan give you only a German forum thread with pictures of these pots.äß/?page=2 But you dont need that advanced pottery. For the last two years I treat them sometimes with very little Borax about 2 ppm to prevent crown rot. I never had it before and so its no proof that it is good. It hardens the cell membrane and does other good stuff to plants in gerneral. But too much can be harmfull especially with boron sensitive plants like beans or strawberry. Cephalotus never showed bad effects. On the contrary. I overtreated some to find out where to stop, but they grew on. Never had aphids or mold or any other sighn of distress, these two years.
  12. partisangardener

    Help/ Opinion on baby Ceph clumps

    They grow new traps. I experienced sometimes loss of all leafs, when I replanted very small plants from confined growing conditions to outside. They all bounced back.
  13. partisangardener

    Cephalotus follicularis And Hummers Giantäß/ Thats the thread of my special pots. Sorry it is in German, but in all the English forums photobucket holds my pictures as hostage. Boron is now two years in use.
  14. partisangardener

    Cephalotus follicularis And Hummers Giant

    Crown rot might be caused by boron deficiency. This symptom is apparent in many plant species. Boron is likely to be present in ceramic substrate parts or pots. So repotting in new substrate migt be a solution. Boron is fixed in plant matter for a long time after it died. I myself spray them with very, very much diluted Borax. They grow in special ceramic pots or plastic containers sitting in water all the time without any issue. I came to this solution while goggling for crown rot. If it is a solution and not just luck.
  15. partisangardener

    Drosophyllum dying

    I keep mine always wet. Hot days with twice watering in the tray plus the rain as often ist comes. The tray is only very few and short times dry, at most a few hours. They grow like weed for the third year now. Mike has put it to the point.