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byblis

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Posts posted by byblis

  1. Sean,

    What you see should be the first fotos of this species/form ever published.

    I am ashamed because the foto above was just a snapshot to show the differences in size and flower colour. Please have a look at this photo to see the habit of the plant (it is a lower solution but I have better ones):

    drubripetala4p.jpg

    Stefan

  2. Hi,

    here is a not perfect photo made today just to show you the two plants together. Left pink large flowers is D. cistiflora and right smaller, red/dark pink flowered is what was described formally under D. rubripetala. After having a first look this weekend I find the species rank for D. rubripetala is not given and would rank it within D. cistiflora although it is a beautiful small form with intense coloration! Cross-pollination was made for seed production.

    Vergleichdcistdrubripetalap.jpg

    Stefan

  3. Just to give you an impression what happens within 3 years:

    I got a cluster of U. menziesii in 2001 and divided it up into 4 independent, rice corn sized tubers. I didnot know that time that you need a larger cluster of tubers to see a flower. The tubers did pretty well without artificial liaght for the last 3 years treated exactly the same way as my tuberous Droseras. Some accidentally seedlings of tuberous Droseras can be seen in the pot,

    too.

    umenziesiip.jpg

    Stefan

  4. Vic, Rob,

    I am also cultivating this beautiful plant. Grew it from seed obtained in 1998 to maturity and had a discussion with Fernando on the international list a while ago. The results were that all plants labelled G. Giant violacea, G. violacea Giant and so on originally had been collcted by Fernando. That was some years ago, may be other collections occured meanwhile. I labelled my plants as the seed was labelled:

    Genlisea "Giant" violacea Itacambira, Minas Gerais; Br

    and added my sowing date: XII98

    Hope this helps

    Stefan

  5. Hi all,

    donot give up hope if nothing happens with your seed. Today while cleaning out my greenhouse I found a leftover pot dated 2001 where I had sown about 10 R. dentata in that year. I obtained about 5or 6 plants out of that pot and forgot about it. Today I recognized a fresh seedling in that pot after 3 years. Original treatment: Burning of R. dentata leaves on top of the substrate, substrate original compost from a R. dentata site in SAF.

    So donot throw your old pots away!!

    Stefan

  6. Rob,

    I did so several times with what I think is D. ascendens but is for sure out of the "D. villosa complex".

    (Hi Matt if you are reading this: Yes, you were right, it is not D. graomogolensis what I grow, but D. ascendens I think now!)

    In my eyes now is the best time to do leave cuttings of D. villosa, graom., ascendens. graminifolia and others from South America. I myself did so 10 days ago. What worked for me the years ago was placing the cuttings onto/into very wet peat in petri dishes, covering it with the lid and leaving them at a warm place with enough light in my greenhouse (warm). Take care cuttings donot get sunburned, temps rise very fast in a petri dish. This method worked well for me but expect a rate of perhaps 10-20% of the leaves rotting. Avoid leaves with insects on it!

    This year to experiment a bit I placed the cuttings onto pure NZ-Sphagnum also in petri dishes and placed the petri dishes under artificial light for 15h a day in my heating room? (The room the burner/heater is placed in the cellar). There it has always about 21-23 Celsius. So far no results but all cuttings look healthy.

    Good luck!

    Stefan

  7. Hi,

    I usually desinfect all Drosera seed in a solution of Natrium hypochlorene if that is the correct English term. Formula NaOCL but I have to look for the concentration. Self harvested seed works very good, seed from friends/commercial seed mostly not. The most important thing is to get the seed ripe, but still in the capsules so harvest it one day before the capsules open :-))) but it onto your TV or on another warm place and collect the seeds. Some tuberous Droseras are lazy germinators, so it took me 10 months to see D. macrantha (rock outcrop form) germinate in vitro. Others are still sterile in the tubes but didnot germinate for the last 12 months. What I could bring in vitro are:

    D. auriculata, D. peltata, D. stolonifera stol., D. zigzagia, D. moorei, D. andersoniana, D. salina, D. ramellosa, D. menziesii.

    For some pics depending D. dilatato-petiolaris in vitro and bringing them out in CP-compost try the following link to the German forum.

    http://www.carnivoren.org/cgi-bin/forum/Ya...87347;start=8#8

    Perhaps that helps

    Stefan

  8. Hi,

    sorry I forgot about some facts and thanks for remembering me:

    Temps on cloudy days are 12-13 °Celsius day and 6-8°Celsius night. I have a (donot know the English phrase) light induced temperature control measuring the incoming light and dropping down temperature in the dawn. So all my plants get colder temperature duzring the night and that works very good for me.

    On sunny days I open the windows and allow temp. to rise up to about 25°Celsius. That is important if you want to see the flowers open and to obtain pollen.

    Compost: I use it for all winter growing, summer dormant SAF Droseras I cultivate:

    D. alba, D. trinervia, D. cistiflora, D. pauciflora, D. afra, D. coccipetala, D. rubripetala and some more.

    hope this helps

    Stefan

    • Like 1
  9. here is another photo of D. affinis that I neglected a little over the summer. It has to be cleaned but already shows a new flower stalk in the right of the photo:

    daffinisp.jpg

    This plants are grown in my warm house under humid conditions with not as much light due to 60% shading over the summer.

    Stefan

    P.S. I brought some of the seeds in vitro and got germination 4 weeks ago. So this beautiful Drosera should be save in cultivation and if my generous Donor agrees I can spread it a bit within the CP community!

  10. Hi all,

    I donot share that opinion. If you let the roots dry out completely during the summer you risk your plants. Also the compost of 50/50 peat/sand is possible, but plants benefit much more from other mixtures. And you want to see them flower, wont you?

    Below are some different forms of D. cistiflora all found in the Darling Area in South Africa. Photos taken today in my greenhouse:

    dcistiflora144dunkelrotDarlingp.jpg

    dcistiflora52pinkDarlingp.jpg

    dcistiflorapinkDarlingp.jpg

    They all are kept in the coldhouse together with Roridula, Australian tuberous Drosera and lemon trees. During the summer as soon as they go dormant pots are kept slightly moist in the middle of drying out and watering. Watering lets the roots rot, no water lets them dry out and possibly die. In my eyes bringing D. cistiflora over the summer months is difficult. Plants seem to benefit from large, deep pots. Cactus pots for deep rooting Cacti (Ariocarpus, Lophophora) are very good. I have never used artificial light but I am sure plants benefit from it. Some forms are very easy infected by fungi like mildew. If that happens I spray with Baymat (donot know whether it is sold in the UK but could look for the chemicals in it).

    A slightly nutrient enriched medium seems to be beneficial for the plants. What I have observed over the years is that plants transplanted in fresh compost donot as well as plants standing in the old compost for years. Experimenting with Vermicullit, Perlite, clay pearls, clay, loam, sand ... brought me to the conclusion that stuff sold here as "black peat" mixed with sand does much better than the blond peat (white peat). Black peat is more decayed and I think that sets some nutrients free D. cistiflora like. Soil from different natural habitats were always sandy clay and/or sandy loam with much more sand than clay/loam. Some substrates looked like pure yellow sand with no additives as we know from Australian Droseras. This observations let me experiment with Vermicullit for better drainage and clay pearls in various peat based mixtures. All plants you can see on the photos above have an addition of different clay/loam in their substrate, some of them show flower buds already.

    And to come to an end donot forget that plants love much lower nighttimes than daytimes.

    Hope that is not too long and boriing for you all!

    Stefan

  11. Thank you Vic for moving my post to the Utricularia forum but now my problem is I cannot edit the original post.

    So I started a reply but feel free to move this reply to the top!

    To show you my growing conditions two fotos of U. quelchii, one not good but taken 15min ago in my greenhouse:

    uquelchiiwhp.jpg

    This is a styropore box about 30x20cm filled with NZ sphagnum and planted with divisions of U. quelchii around May 2003. Note the numerous small leaves emerging.

    uquelchii.jpg

    This is a round pot also filled with NZ sphagnum but with a bottom of a mix of peat and orchid substrate. In my eyes a very good growth. Planted division spring 2002. Sorry for the bad photo, it was made 30min ago.

    ugeminilobap.jpg

    This photo shows the pretty rare cultivated U. geminiloba that is said to be a "stone surface grower". Sorry, I only know the latin word but not the English one. Planted in pure NZ sphagnum, kept in the coldhouse since 2002 and flowering for the first time in 2003.

    Hope that helps you cultivating that beautiful Utricularias!

    Stefan

  12. I am pretty sure the plant on the foto is not D. villosa, which is very very rare in cultivation, but D. graomogolensis. I keep my plants of the let me say "D. villosa complex" in my coldhouse together with the tuberous Droseras at 6-12 degrees Celsius.

    I have never had problems during the winter except some cases of Botrytis.

    Hope this helps

    Stefan

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