byblis

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Everything posted by byblis

  1. Hi Greg, I have GAB3 from two different sources and every company tells different things: Sigma-Aldrich: Store at room temperature Second (Phywe if I remember correctly): Store at +4┬░Celsius I keep it cool but not in the fridge and it still works. I think that you might loose it/some of it in the fridge if water condenses? and the GAB3 gets wet. it is said that GAB3 becomes inactive after 1-2 days diluted in water. That is the reason I donot like soaked paper GAB3. Kindest regards Stefan
  2. Hi, it might be your plant is infected with mite I donot know the exact english name. Try to spray it with an acarizide 1-2 times and watch for better growth. I donot know what you gus there use here on the continent we used to spray Vertimec (no longer allowed) and now Kiron. Hope this helps Stefan
  3. Hi all, my D. praefolia are flowering this year for the first time. Here is a pic: Hope you enjoy it! Stefan
  4. No, that┬┤s my friend Klaus Keller, another Roridula grower and bug keeper from Southern Bavaria. Stefan
  5. byblis

    U. lloydii

    Hi all, here a photo of U. lloydii, one of the numerous yellow flowering Utricularia from Venezuela. (Hope your ID was correct Andreas!) Stefan
  6. Hi all, thank you for your compliments and thanks again to Sebastian Vieira, who managed to collect and distribute this species. Please read also his interesting article on the collection trip on his homepage. Cultivation: I obtained a pot with two or three growth spots earlier this year in May or June. I repotted the plantlets pulling away as much moss as I could do with tweezers because I had the impression that some weedy Colombian moss was to overgrow the plantlets. Then I potted one part in pure peat, another one in pure Chile sphagnum in a small pot. Cultivation in my warmhouse with dropping night temps during the summer with a bit of shading. That was all, the plants grew well and the plant in peat sent up two flower scapes in August. Today I was able to pollinate the first flower and could see a large amount of pollen produced. So seed production should occur soon. Hope this helps Stefan
  7. Hi all, I wanted to share an image of a beautiful little gem from the highland forests of Colombia. A special thanks to Sebastian Vieira who made a few plants available to some growers. Together with U. asplundii it is one of my favorites! Hope you enjoy it! Stefan
  8. Hi all, I managed to get a couple of plants of D. broomensis. Are there any specific cultivation notes? Dormancy and so on? Of course I know about the climatical conditions in the Broome region but there might be something special. Kindest regards Stefan
  9. Hi, depending light I give my fully adapted adult plants full light shaded from May - September with a 60% cloth. Younger plants/divisions are kept behind the wall of my earthhouse out of direkt sunlight. In my experience too much sun for divisions sometimes results in a loss of plants. A flower of the Ilu Tepui clone I sell sometimes to give you an impression: @Sebastian: That is your clone and the flower was induced in my warmhouse this year! Kindest regards Stefan
  10. Hi, I have never seen bugs for sale and it does not make sence as they are kept best on plants. There is definitely no chance to post bugs for several days and allow live arrival, I once gave away a plant, the new owner killed all bugs accidantally but new larvae appeared after some weeks. So the eggs seem to have survived on the plant. Usually I am giving away bugs but mostly during summer/autumn, keeping them alive during the winter you need regular feeding of them all 10-14 days and for me it means buying flies and maggots all 2 weeks. Last parcel was not packed properly and the maggots werre crawling in the post-wifes car .... Back to the bugs: If you ever are in Germany and it is not spring visit me and you can get a starter packet of bugs. How you import them into the U.S. should be your own problem! Regards Stefan
  11. Hi all, Seandew, the plant is great! Anything known about the location it was collected? Perth Airport site plants under my growing conditions never have so many growing points, 1-3 are the normal amount of. I keep all plants under "tuberous Drosera growing conditions" with cool winters and summers as they are in Central Europe. Watering 1-3 days after the water in the tray is gone and plants kept in constant water most time of the summer. But I think (if I werenot so lazy..) plants would benefit from moist, but not wet substrate. Mine dry out and die if I try to keep them this way. And donot forget that you need both plants to obtain seed via cross pollination! Use a tuning fork to obtain pollen and live in continuous fear of your wife if you take it without her personal permission as I did one day with the tuning fork of my wife :-)) Expect the first flowers end of the year/next year. Kindest regards Stefan
  12. Jeff, you wrote That is definitely impossible!!! P. leptoceras NEVER occurs on calcareous rocks but needs acid pH and calcareous FREE underground. This makes this lovely species grow only in the Central Alpes from France to Austria. Whatever you have found on calcareous rocks must have been P. vulgaris or P. grandiflora. Stefan
  13. byblis

    p.lusitanica

    Jeff, I have never heared of a species "P. gysophila" so far and this means it doesnot grow in Germany. We have two species here: P. alpina and P. vulgaris, perhaps you can add P. vulgaris bicolor if you think it deserves a subspecies rank. P. leptoceras is not found here because we only have calcareous soil/rock in most of the area. Hope this helps Stefan
  14. Hi, I am going to sow Byblis, too and I always add Perlite to the medium. Keeps it a bit more open. I have tried this for all 6 described species I grow. Stefan
  15. Germination: My own seeds give the best results of estimated 70-80% of germination. What you see in the picture is the second generation, mother plants were grown from seed purchased from Allen lowrie. I soak all Byblis seed except B. liniflora in 1mg/ml GAB3 in deion. water for at least 24h better for 3-4 days. No smoke, no ethene etc. is used. Then I place it on top of my germination mix of mostly peat, charcoal, sand (have to look for the exact mixture) and keep it under warmhouse conditions. Germination seems to be triggered from warm, damp conditions. I donot understand that because plants should germinate in cool climate but that is what works for me best. After germination I take away the cover of the mini greenhouse/tank and let the seedlings grow for a while in the warm house moving it to the coldhouse as soon as I think all seed has germinated. Keeping it longer in the warmhouse results in damp off and slow growth. usually I loose about 10% or so due to damp off and that I can live with. This method also works for B. filifolia, B. aquatica, B. rorida. I will sow more seed in February and post the results. Kindest regards Stefan
  16. Sean, I have had the plant for about 3 years in a tnak with about 90% humidity on an east faced windowsill. Then after a move it died within some months. I have never seen more than about 10 pale greenish to yellow leaves but flowers regular every spring. Unfortunately it died about a year or so before I erected my greenhouse. Under my conditions it never was an annual. That is not much help! Stefan
  17. Sorry, saw this topic late. And I didnot realize that pics are so rare in the web. Here is a close up of a flower: I collected the plant accidantally around Darwin, N.T., back in 1996 (and wished I ever could return!) Photo quality is low because I had to scan it from a print I made from a slide; slide quality is much better. Sorry for that but I agree it is one of the most beautiful species I ever have seen. Compares to U. asplundii! I agree that the yellow folwer is U. subulata, especially the leave shape of the submerged leaves is what I get under the same conditions. Hope this helps Stefan
  18. Hi all, just wanted to share an experience I made over the last 6 months. Usually I sow all Byblis species in early sprung to allow it as long a growing period under best light conditions as possible. But in autumn 2004 I had so many seed of B. lamellata and B. gigantea that I tried to sow it in September to see whether there is germination and growth during the winter. Here is the result: left: B. lamellata from Eneabba, right B. gigantea from Perth Airport site Only very few plantlets died so far but some got badly damaged from slugs. Plants size is big enough to expect flowers during the summer, so autumn sowing may save you one growing period from seed to new seed! Kindest regards Stefan
  19. Hi all, after a few failing attempts finally I was successful to germinate some of the very last seeds from D. graminifolia from the TYPE location in Serra de Caraca. As Fernando told us plants at that location are extinct/nearly extinct due to mining so I think it is important to maintain it in cultivation. I hvae about 10 - 15 different plants in vitro and will try to propagate and distribute it as much as I can if the tube keeps sterile. A big thank you to the two people collecting the seed/sending me the seed! (You know who you are!) Stefan
  20. Hi Sean, it is not P. leptoceras. The flower is deformated but the leaves of P. leptoceras look quite different and remember more to P. vulgaris. The plant on the photo doesnot show that characteristics. Phil: P. leptoceras is definitely not always accompanied by pines, I have found plants by the thousands growing above 2000 m (6000 feet for you guys) in the Italian mountains. There was no pine, just a few larches and one alpine tree I donot know the Englisch name. Substrate was black, acidic soil and you are right that P. leptoceras is the acid growing Ping. of the alps, P. vulgaris is found on limestone ground. Stefan
  21. Here a photo of the plant: I donot remember who gave me the plant originally but I have doubts on the identity/location of the plant. Any comments? Stefan
  22. Hi all interested in G. uncinata I obtained about 7 flowers and pollinated all of it with a fine marten hair brush resulting in 6 swelling seed capsules. Before capsules turned brown the flower stalk rotted just at substrate level. I cut it and put it into water on a white piece of paper. After some days the first two capsules turned brown, were harvested and I obtained some fertile looking seed. Sowed it the same day onto pure peat in a petri dish and got germination of about 10 plants so far. Wish me luck to keep the tiny seedlings alive! Stefan
  23. I grow all my Genlisea species in pure peat in a greenhouse with temps above 17 Celsius and shaded with 60% clothing during the summer even if there is no summer like this year. Tries in the coldhouse with temps down to 6 Celsius were survived by G. violacea (Caraca) and G. hispidula, others I didnot try so far. Stefan
  24. Hi all, at the moment G. hispidula of all three locations I grow are flowering, so here a comparison of flowers of the locations Mkambati, Transvaal, Pretoria (all SAF): There are significant differences in flower shape, angle between lower lip and spur, spur size/shape and coloration. By the way the middle flower shows the plants with the "blue" flowers and in the upper foto you should be able to see a shade of blue in the middle of the flower. Stefan
  25. Greg, I carry them from my coldhouse to my warmhouse several times a year! At the moment the left two are in the coldhouse with normal temps from 8 Celsius to what you can get in a shaded greenhouse (30 +). The large plant I think is D. villosa is in the warmhouse 16 Celsius Minimum to 30 Celsius. Substrate pure peat, I have tried NZ/Chile sphagnum with success, too. Yes, plants can be propagated via seed but faster are leave cuttings. (Greg, accidantallay I have sent this to you also as PM, sorry for that) Stefan