Odysseus

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Posts posted by Odysseus

  1. UPDATE:

    So I got the replaced D. scorpiodes and D. dichrosepala. I didn't get a pic of the whole bowl when I got these, so I will update this tomorrow with one.

    D. nitidula x pulchella pulling through it looks like:

    DSCN5564_zps1a11d468.jpg

    Some of my gemmae are growing nicely! Here are some macro shots:

    As you can see, I have had it too moist so far. I haven't been over watering it, it is all just from humidity. Up close it looks soaked but it really isn't that bad. Just a bit too moist it has encouraged green growth and fuzzed up some gemmae.

    DSCN5571_zpse9e05723.jpg

    DSCN5554_zpse6ad47f9.jpg

    DSCN5559_zps6ef0c6fe.jpg

    And some of my gemmae are suffering through some mold it appears:

    Anyone got any advice? or just keep the ventilation up and let the surface dry up a bit more and wait it out?

    DSCN5563_zps4f0117f4.jpg

  2. Glad it has inspired you! I am so fond of the quick maturation cycles of gemmae grown plants and the pygmies are dang good looking too. :)

    If the pipe was in between the scorps, could that make it harder to put water in once they grow big?

    Yeah, looking at my pic of my pygmy bowl back in 2004 pointed out to me too that when the scorpiodes get larger there will be a difficult time getting access to the pipe....I guess in the back or front I can put it in the middle again. I am going to find a narrower pipe this time though.

  3. Going to need to add a pipe in there after all so that I can water from the bottom up. Having the water table lower will help with the moss and algae.

    Last time I had a big, kind of ugly looking pipe in the bowl to help apply the water down low and thought I didn't want it this time, but something will need to be put in. Maybe in the middle where the future scorpiodes will hide.

    PygmyBowl_April1st_zpsf6891762.jpg

  4. UPDATE:

    The D. scorpiodes and D. dichrosepala didn't make the travel and arrived dead, but there were some gemmae on each plant that I potted up. I am getting replacement plants soon, thankfully the online seller is honoring that! So appreciative!

    But here is an update as of last night, February 3rd:

    PygmyJar_Feb3_zps9f28a7eb.jpg

    Sort of "close-up" shot of some gemmae growth: (I will need to get my camera out for some macro shots.)

    PygmyJar_Feb3_closeup_zpsba7fca62.jpg

  5. The High Output fluorescent from Sunblaster sounds like it would be great.

    If you do go for CFLs, I can vouch for 4 being enough even without a reflector, even though it is like "burning 1 pound notes to keep warm". I don't disagree there.

    I am using mirrors below but need a reflect setup and tinfoil worked fine for me in the past so I certainly can recommend that as well.

    Good luck and happy growing!

  6. My advice is get as tall and as big a tank as possible. :). This was six months growth.

    4137576709_546d61d455_z.jpg

    Totally agree - but talk about a full tank! Wow :D

    I have a really long 40 gallon tank but it isn't tall for neps, but MUCH taller than the 10 gallon in question here. It definitely is my goal to use that 40 gallon tank again as well as get a larger one someday, but I need to move out of this apartment first.

  7. The hard part is the forum uses a javascript or some other code to load the buttons above and on a phone or ipad you don't get that shelf of useful buttons. So you have to hard code it, but that is really simple still.

    I use the Photobucket app and then from that app, I load an image off my phone to my photobucket library and then copy a "Direct Link" to that image from Photobucket and paste it into the image code here at cpuk that is

    [img][/img]
    

    For instance:

    [img=http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e160/_Odysseus/DPygmy_Flowers_zpsc6901f58.jpg]
    

    Will become:

    DPygmy_Flowers_zpsc6901f58.jpg

    • Like 1
  8. My space is 40cm by 58cm and is without any reflectors and working great with four bulbs.

    I personally wouldn't go with less than 2 if the lights are REALLY close to the plants. But if you got 30cm or more space between bulbs and plants, I would add more. The successful number I have been using for 10 gallon terrariums has been four. Whether four bulbs were necessary I can't say, just that my plants have been doing great with them.

    Not familiar with the bayonet fitting, but those are very similar to the CFLs I am using in my tank right now.

    As you can see, it gets rather warm in there, but these bulbs are rated to 145f so it is fine.

    photo_zps15722285.jpg

  9. I used to have a few tanks of lowland Nepenthes. When the plants started to get too big I would air layer them, you get a new plant and prune at the same time! Also seemed to be good at encouraging ground pitchers in ampullaria.

    That is a good suggestion. As of writing this I have only a memory of hearing the term "air layer" and have a vague notion of what it means. But I am going to look it up and consider doing it when time comes!

    Thanks for the suggestion there, especially coming from someone with experience growing them in tanks as I am unfortunately required to do.

  10. I never had much luck with them in the greenhouse so I planted one out in my pond margin bog garden, they're spreading like wildfire in there, I dug up a few for someone and they all seem to be connected under the peat by long thick roots.

    Trev, have you ever posted a picture of this Pond margin bog garden? I made a cursory look through topics you have started and didn't see anything from that, do you mind point me in the right direction if there is a good picture of it out there?

    Thanks in advance!

  11. From my experience, which has been always growing under lights, you do not need the grow tubes from an aquatics outlet.

    Just be sure you get a solid amount of lumens 1450 or more and 6500K daylight bulbs.

    I am sure some specific plants would do poorer under those conditions, but they are the exception. As long as the light is bright, close and daylight, my plants have grown really really well.

    Drosera may need more of the lights to enjoy the coloration they can get, but they will be dewy and flower. They did for me with just 4 spiral CFLs that were Daylight 6500K bulbs.

  12. Thanks, Guys!

    I am very excited to see how things go too. Last time, after only 2 months most plants were large and enjoying the space. So shouldn't be long before we see the progress.

    The nitidula x pulchella and dichrosepala are coming as near flowering plants, so at least there will be something of note to look at in there by tonight.

  13. UPDATE:

    This week I have been getting gemmae from generous friends and potting them up in 2-inch square pots and my Pygmy jar. Nothing is visible, more than green gemmae, but here is an update:

    Pygmy Jar

    2 parts sand 1 part peat

    The toothpicks are for my own use remembering where I want to spread the gemmae out and where I HAVE already planted some. As soon as I plant the last three I will remove them.

    PygmyJar_3gemmae_Jan30_zps477a0f01.jpg

    Here is a view from above with the layout plan:

    I have already placed the D. roseana, D. pygmae 'green flower' and the D. pulchella 'pink flower' gemmae.

    Pygmysetup_zps81b3f937.png

    Close-up of the D. pulchella gemmae

    The other gemmae is smaller and tough to see against the sand/peat mix.

    c2c18896-115d-4035-a193-34f385af9f46_zpse680ee23.jpg

    I will be getting my D. dichrosepala, D. scorpiodes and nitidula x pulchella from Cook's Carnivores tomorrow and I will be updating this with one more pic then.

    Stay tuned! :D

  14. Johan, that is an interesting suggestion.

    Do you have any pictures showing your use of this and any links to the exact product that you recommend? Obviously, something with a proven track record of not being harmful or bringing anything unwanted to the growing medium like minerals would be better to look into.

    Thanks!