Odysseus
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Posts posted by Odysseus
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I hear you. It is a small terrarium and I will have to use things like chopsticks to work with the stuff. But, what should I do about the moss right now? I'd rather not let it become a problem.
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EDIT: Years ago I posted this about my Pygmy Bowl but since then my images have been lost. I have not yet found them, but here are SOME that I found to at least show what it was. (Original Post below images.)
ORIGINAL POST:
Here's how I have been growing my D. Nitidula x Pulchella, D. Pulchella and D. Pulchella pink flower, D. Scorpiodes, D. Carburup, D. Badgerup, and D. Pygmae that I received from those of you. It has only been almost one month since I began. I have had no problems however and all my gemmae are starting to look great!
My container is a one gallon Goldfish bowl with a lamp overhanging the opening.
The lid is on right now all the time, but today I pulled it off to see how they fair with low daytime humidity and high nighttime.
Here are my D. Nitidula x Pulchella or D. Pulchella...I can't remember right now which one I took a pic of this morning.
They are a little over 2 weeks old.
I received 6 scorpiodes at 3/4 of an inch tall already and placed them in their 3 weeks ago. They first fried a little from the light and lid being off so I placed the lid on their round the clock and the new leaves have now acclimated to the light and the lid is off during the day. I placed a ring of gemmae around those mature ones two weeks ago. You'll see some growing and some getting there.
Other notes:
My medium is 2 parts sand one part peat. I filled it with water to keep the water table high and every other day I tediously drop little droplets of water from a baster onto the soil almost like rain. I don't drown my plants but let the soil surface get a little wet every other day.
My lamp holds one 32w compact flourescent. That sits supurbly on the top matching exactly the ring of the goldfish bowl. The light is on a 15 hour photoperiod.
Green moss is growing in their too, but I enjoy the natural look it gives the Mini Bog. I just hope it doesn't go rampant too fast.
It is sitting on an end table next to our living room couch. This bog will look great once the all grow their full size and get their sharper color! I can't wait! Well...Thanks for viewing!
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You'll have to wait until summer for a photograph unless you want to see a rhizome with some leaf stumps! Haha...I guess my plant is either younger or brought out of dormancy faster. I was thinking you'd all have plants growing!
Thanks Aidan for the link. I should always visit BobZ's archive of CP pics before asking! He sure did great work!! -- Thanks BobZ --
Do you think my pics shown above are S. Leucophylla x psittacina a.k.a wrigleyana?
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My Sarr I got from the ever ignorant Nurserymen's exchange has turned out to be a S. Leucophylla x psittacina. Or at least that is my BEST guess!
So, I was wondering what anyone else's looks like so I can get an idea of what to expect in its growth. I will post a pic of mine tomorrow.
Any particular growing advice that I should know would be nice. Otherwise I'll just follow the mandate from D'amato.
Here are those photos I promised.
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I triple that notion.
My pygmies have recently sprouted from gemmae and my D. Scorpiodes have been 3/4 inch tall for a month. All are thriving and I never mist them, and even the lid that I have on them at night has two 1/2 inch holes in them providing good air circulation. The humidity stays around 80% and so they don't lose any moisture needed.
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Thanks for the reply, Josh. I understand the plant acclimitation idea better now with your pic, and look forward to the new growth. I am glad with my choice to not use insecticide on the leaves, especially since your last comment agrees with my theory on the matter.
"If you don't see the bugs then don't use insecticides."
Thanks Josh for your help, and am grateful that there are those of you who have had the experience I need to treat my plants right!
Take care! In six months I can post a different pic than the damaged leaf one and I can celebrate the change!
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Argh, over played by a professional. ;)
I gave it a shot.
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It could be... it does look alot like a N. Alata x Truncata "red stripe" to me...
Is that a fully matured pitcher? I mean, is the peristome still gaining color or has it stalled with those stripes?
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Due to lack of further advice on the Orthenex. I disregarded the idea of using it. However, after seeing no real changes in the brown spots, I removed the shade cloth. Then I noticed some spots getting a little more burnt, but not anymore than it already was.
Thus, my poor Ventricosa leaves are dying except for the two new ones and they are doing fine. I expect in a month to see some nice pitchers and three or four more new leaves.
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Ok. Here you go. The pictures of my finished PVC Shelf. I followed the advice from COOL852K and here is the finished product!
This is my CP CORNER! The smaller tank on the right is my NEP tank.
Here is the PVC FRAME.
This is with the Wood shelving.
This is the whole shebang! Thanks Jerry for the plans!! They worked great!
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I found the info on my Orthenex from the web. Here's some info.
Active Ingredients: 0.75% Fenbutatin Oxide, 3.25% Triforine, 4.0% Orthene
But if you need more here's the webpage where describes the product.
Link Omitted
Thanks for your replies.
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Ok. Thanks Swords!
Does anyone know if Orthenex from Ortho has a chance of hurting my N. Ventricosa? It is used on roses or other plants for aphids, mites, and ect.
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Wow. Lots of news from you guys! Thanks.
Yes, that Alata is particularly RED! I think is it cool looking. I think it's interesting how different plants react differently to light though. I have an Alata RIGHT NEXT to that really RED one, and it even sits taller and closer to the lights. But, instead of red it is a DARK HEALTHY green! Not a drop of Antho...
About the Khasiana, should I be pretty dissappointed? I thought it was weak cutting and felt bad at first. Then you guys hyped up the fact that mature cuttings grow fast and got me excited. Now, I am just neutral about it. It is showing slow growth on the smaller of the two leaves, so I know it will establish myself. I got it from it Cook's Carnivores. I was hoping for better. I got both plants from them.
Now, the Ventricosa problem. If it is insect infestation. I will take care of it. But, should I take the shade cloth away now? I'd like to. My P. Esseriana is in flower and could enjoy the light. And no, I don't mist my plants. But, I did mist the Ventricosa after I potted it. I received it from Cook's bareroot and was potting it. After I slightly misted it so it could have some humidity to help it in the tank under the lights. I don't remember though if any had puddled up on parts of the leaf. But, that would make sense.
Thanks for the pest control recommendation. I have already an insecticide called Orthenex for killing off Aphids on my VFT's. The nurseries don't carry just Orthene anymore. Do you think that could work? It says it could get mealyworms.
P.S. Now that I have had that infected plant in my tank for a little over a week! Do I need to apply the pest control that I get if the orthenex doens't work to all the plants? I would isolate the Ventricosa but I seriously don't have another place with high humidity to put it....hmm, is that better to get rid of those worms that thrive in high humidity??
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Good point Tony,
The Ventricosa has been under the shade cloth for a week now and has barely opened a new leaf with a young one inside. The opened leaf however looks pretty sad, as you will see in the following pictures. When do you suggest I remove the shade cloth entirely?
Swords,
Here's the pics I promised. You will see the burnt leaves, and the wilted newly opened one with a new growth coming up. I hope the two pics of the Khasiana will be enough. I sure hope it is a cutting from a mature plant. But, either way I am glad to have the plant!
http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gidgiddon....dir=/My+Photos
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No Swords. I wish it was just the Anthocyanin! One of my Alata's shown here:
http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gidgiddon...nm=Tweezers.jpg
Has ALOT of RED! I love it. So, I can tell the difference between that and of course my Ventricosa leaves. They are definitely burned. But you brought up more questions for me. Because my little 10 gal. tank has 90% humidity almost all the time! I have good air circulation at the top...but I don't think the tall Ventricosa was too high and thus in an area where the humidity was evaporating. Yet, the leaves are brown! Not so dry, but definitely burned. I should post a pic. If I already have one with the Khasiana ?Cuttting? in it or the Ventricosa I'll post it here real soon. But, otherwise I'll have to do it in a couple hours when I get home.
However, Swords. Pravda! With the new light my Alata are SPECTACULAR! Big Pitchers on a couple plants, and all around strong color. The younger ones of course have varied pigmentation, but I figured that was simply from being younger since most young NEPS are all green.
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All right! When I first received it I was sure it was a cutting from a mature plant. That got me excited...but as I studied propagation, I found that the cutting were much shorter. Now, that I know it is a vine "tip cutting" my excitement is renewed!
The only bogus part, is that these two new plants (Ventricosa and Khasiana) will soon be too large for my ten gallon tank! :x
On a quick note: My Ventricosa didn't fair too well when I added it to my NEP Tank. The light output in wattage is 92w. I burnt the living daylights out of those leaves!!! I potted it and placed it in there in the evening, and the next day I was at the College all day! Once, I came home that night at ten, my poor Ventricosa had been burning for 14 hours!!
I felt foolish assuming it would be fine...I added a shade cloth above it using a black sock of mine I cut up. But, does anyone have any more advice on how to nourish those leaves back to health? Or do I just let the new ones come in and cut them off later?
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Hello Rico,
How much light are you using for those Madagascariensis? Your Live Sphag looks so green! The live Sphag in my NEP tank is going yellow to brown where it is not shaded. The light output of my tank is 92 watts.
Do you water your Drosera overhead or just use the tray system?
Sorry I don't have a Madagascariensis pic to show you Matt, but from these pics that plant is easily on my want list!
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You'll be in luck with khasiana - it starts to climb very early on, and does produce the elegant coiled tendrils. It's also a quicky grower, so you won't have to wait long.
Great News! Especially, since the Khasiana I ordered resembles more of a rooted cutting than a young plant. I've never seen a freshly rooted cutting, so I'll describe it.
It came with two leaves at the top of a 4 inch stem. (10cm) The two leaves were both underdeveloped. Skinny leaves, one standing up and short, the other mostly pointed up but curled at the very end. They both hadn't flattened out yet or fully laid out. After a week now the shorted one is starting to grow again. Glad to hear that it is a quick grower! Sounds like I'll be eating more than just breakfast in front of my Nep Tank!
However, now that I think about it...a cutting doesn't usually have such a long stem. I suppose Cook's just trimmed it all the way to the highest two growing points. I wonder why they had to do that?
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That when they bloom they do so with such abandon they seriously weaken themselves. If you keep an eye on them and give them a little hand feeding with, for instance, "freeze-dried bloodworms" that they will perk up and bounce back more quickly.
So, then what you changed was simply feeding them freeze-dried bloodworms after flowering? Anything else besides that?
Think that'll have the same effect on D. Capensis. 4 of my Capensis are flowering. Schnell says that if you don't want seeds cut the scape once it has flowered at least one flower. Or the plant tries to send up another scape making it use even more energy.
Is that the case? Or can I cut the stalk once it appears. You know, before it loses its healthy look.
Anyway, if I do need to let the scape flower at least one flower...do you think those Blood-worms will bring my Capensis back to life too? Seriously, my Capensis is pale green and ends of the dewy traps are getting mold on them before I cut them off.
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Not that I was limiting Upper pitcher characteristics only to coiling tendrils, not intended. I only keep referring to the coiling tendrils because I REALLY love that look!
My first sight of a Nepenthes was in THE SAVAGE GARDEN by D'Amato last year. On his windowsill he was growing a N. Khasiana that had three uppers supporting themselves with one elegant loop on each tendril. It was fascinating!
So, I guess my Ventricosa is a scrambler and has a limited chance of being that elegantly coiled plant, but I do have a N. Khasiana and I hope I can get it to grow like D'Amato's.
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Wow. Pretty snazy. Taking the top off of ours unfortunately would shatter the glass. But, it is a good idea though! Thanks Rob.
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Good point Rob,
I did fail to mention about my tank, that it was a converted store display case. The bottom of my tank is wood and so I can't fill the whole bottom with water. I knew the aquarium heater couldn't work ,mostly because it would have to be in a jar of sorts. Which won't be able to circulate the whole chamber like your water does with the pump. But, if I ever buy that big of an aquarium...I will go with your plan. Possibly, a good way to make a Lowland Nep tank.
Thanks Rob.
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Exactly Swords. I believe it was your post I was referring to. Is your Nep Chamber the one with the N. Inermis hanging out on the wall, with some orchids near the front and some long bamboo vertically across the middle? If it is, then it your picture I have been drooling over.
I love your chamber. But, yes. I received my N. Ventricosa and after staring at it compared to my younger alata plants, I noticed what you called Internodes. Yeah, the internodes were MUCH longer between leaf growing points than my Alatas. Thus, I wondered if I could get it to grow uppers.
Would you say Ventricosa Red has a difficult time producing upper pitchers without support? Or can I expect to make those coiling upper tendrils on its own?
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After seeing them growing so vigorously and prolifically in the wild I extrapolated what I was neglecting them in cultivation, provided it and have had good success with them ever since.
PingMan,
What exactly did you extrapolate? I have a couple new D. Capillaris and am curious to know how I can make my plants live a little better.
What does your S. Leucophylla x Psittacina look like?
in Sarracenia
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Does anyone know alot about the hybridization for S. x Wrigleyana?
For example, D'Amato says the Wrigleyanas are "Poor insect catchers." Does that mean the sharp needle like hairs, contained in a Psittacina to lead insects painfully towards its digestive juices, are absent in this particular Hybrid? Or is D'Amato simply eluding to the open beaked mouth - wide open for initial escape - compared to the natural Psittacina with its hood and puckered collar?
Maybe I should just disect a dying pitcher.....