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Odysseus

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Posts posted by Odysseus

  1. Like Aidan says, they are forgiving. But if you're going to seriously get into this hobby, you'll probably want some sort of grow chamber or greenhouse, and then you'll see the humidity shoots up.

    Oh I hear you Tim. My nine 10 gallon tanks sitting on a pvc shelf I made after Cool85k5 plans and my wood shelf and box I made to house a couple other ones are working really well. But, as you said a Greenhouse is what I would want! And I desperately want one! :D I am working right now on plans for a temporary greenhouse, because my brother in law is buying some land this year and building his dream home and a greenhouse over there. He wants my wife and I to rent the basement from them while we go to school. It is a perfect setup and i'm already drooling over the greenhouse idea. But, until the land gets freed up from the serious lawsuit going on between a few neighboring lands...we'll have to wait.

    Thus, I need to build some temporary greenhouse, but don't have an idea of what is best yet! The supplies could bring us up into the 1000's easily if we are not careful, and we want everything to be temporary. So, we can either move all the parts and rebuild or just transfer the whole thing and use as a cool greenhouse next to the warmer greenhouse. We just don't know yet. I've seen some 100 dollar or less 10-12 foot by 9 foot greenhouses be sold on ebay, but I am not sure how much I trust that.

    For now I need to make due with my 10 gallon terraria...but My neps are growing too large for them and the Sarrs will not be suitable from the beginning. I got S. Flava and S. Leuco from Lee's Botanical Garden's already dormant. So I have never seen their real size. Thus, I am growing the larger of the two S. Flava, it's rhizome was massive compared to the Leuco, on a south facing windowsill.

    Until I get the temporary greenhouse up, does anyone find the 35-40% humidity a serious problem? Or is that range a little below their tolerancy?

  2. Thanks for the interesting low-humidity tests, Steve! I'll just shock people around their houses as I test their home for low humidity. ;)

    To answer some questions on my climate...it has snowed relentlessly this winter and is raining even now. However, a day after a snow melt while the sun was out, I measured the humidity with my hygrometer. It was barely over 40%! When I tried again over earth and not cement the humidity was much higher the closer to the ground.

    During the summer however...the sun really dries out our air. And if our air on average is 40% or higher in the winter, the summer will evaporate all that up! Thus, outdoors may be pretty difficult to take care of my Sarrs without a greenhouse. I might have access to a greenhouse at my summer job at Sun River Gardens. However, for now, the best I can do are my sunny south facing windows.

    Right now - I just checked my S. X Wrigleyana - it is sitting in a basin full of water. I should post a pic.... Anyway, the hygrometer reads 40%. Does anyone think that 40% is too little?

  3. With all the different books they say "High" humidity is necessary for sarrs. Yet, many of you have your sarr, some drosera, vft's, and others simply on the windowsill. I have read that you have had great success with it, but we all have varying daily humidity. So, here's my question aimed at those who have experimented with accurate measure different humidity levels for sarrs.

    ONE: In a small basin filled with water, rocks, a Drosera capensis, and soon VFT; I have an S. x Wrigleyana. These plants experience an evening and day average of 45% humidity. It fluctuates from 45 - 53 depending on water evaporation from the basin. I mist them in the morning and in the evening to get humidity up for a moment. They seem to be doing fine. Wrigleyana is a psittacina cross, thus it does well on the window sill. But, I am curious at what minimal humidity I could keep this plant doing well? Do I need to mist them?

    TWO: I have acquired an S. Flava "red mouth" as it was called by Lee's Botanical Garden. What would be the MINIMAL humidity it would do well in?

    Thanks for your time! :D

  4. Jeremiah,

    How recent was that? It looks like Peter's new location in Sebastopol. I have a trip to Monterey next month when I too will visit Peter's California Carnivores! I am really excited, it's almost a trip to Mecca for me! :D My wife on the other hand supports me, but is not sharing the same enthusiasm. :D

  5. Odysseus - You will have to start your own society. There has got to be more than just you in Utah. It's a big place! :mrgreen:

    Yeah...of course you've got to be right, Aidan. Hmmm....How do I find them....I have been on Petflytrap here and there, but my favorite posters there are posters always here so this is my CP home. I should post here and there to see if anyone would be interested in a Utah Society. That could find those few Utahns interested. I sure hope there are more than I fear. I feel inspired to do so, thanks Aidan! :D/

  6. I am thoroughly jealous of you guys who live at least in the same state as a Carnivorous Plant Society. I live in Utah and I would have to travel to either Colorado for their society, or to California's bundle of options. But, I wish there was one within a few hours drive. I've only heard of one man on the web who grows CPs out here in Utah. That man has already moved to California. Sigh... :D

  7. The way I see it, is that the general public has no idea where these "Sarracenia Lillies" come from and their status on extinction.

    I believe that anyone intelligent who feels it is'nt hazardous to their personal stock of Sarracenia and want to sell them as cut flowers should be able to. But, this is a sensitive subject, and they should do more than just post, "These are plantation grown." Because that statement means nothing to the average laymen. If they understand the liability of cutting from the wild, than they also know of their precious need for conservancy.

    Thus, my feelings are. If anyone intelligent has a great plantation of Sarracenia and want to harvest their pitchers do so. But, include in your sales the statement:

    "These beautiful Sarracenia species are endemic to the Northern Americas and are on the verge of extinction in the wild. We respect other's efforts fighting for their conservation in nature and therefore cultivate our own plants here at Such-and-Such Nursery. We are certified and licensed to sell these endangered species as cut flowers. Please respect their endangered lifestyle and purchase your plants only from other certified nurseries."

    If this message or something similar is made aware to the purchasing public, perhaps living in an area where scarce Sarracenia populations still exist, than those innocent uninformed public will not unintentionally equate these "Sarracenia lillies" with common plants and pluck them as they do daffodils.

    I for one, would not purchased a coat made from Koala fur EVEN IF the company self raised the koalas.

    The public believes what it sees, and if the world is selling masses of something they figure there must be plenty of these plants and wouldn't shrug at the idea of filling their vase with freshly cut S. Oreophilla from the wild.

    Thus my opinion: Legally certified nursuries need legal documents to ensure that their plants are not from the wild before they can go mass supplying the world through Ebay.

  8. It depends of it is an incandescent bulb, flourescent, halide, growlux, etc. It really depends on what type of light. If you go for the compact flourescent, at least I can already vouch that it will work well for your plants. :D

    Check out this thread earlier thread on the subject : http://www.cpukforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1419

    or

    http://www.cpukforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2070

    Good Luck... if these aren't what you are needing try a SEARCH. :D

  9. 1) What different type of layers should there be?

    I’ve seen some with Perlite on the bottom, followed by the normal mixture of peat/sand. But what about drainage? Should every Terrarium have a pump? If yes, how to arrange it in the setup?

    I suggest for ease of maintanence and dormancy requirements, you start with a greenhouse style terrarium. That means: All plants in individual pots, and if you choose you can place those pots in water trays of distilled water. If you skip on the water trays make sure you keep the plants watered when they need it. But, for simplicity I suggest you stick with the water tray method. Those plants you purchased can all thrive on the water tray method.

    2) What amount of lights are needed above the described tank? Of course the same length but 1 or 2? And what wattage?

    With D. Capensis and Flytraps they should all be happy with at least 3 or more compact flourescents all 23w or more. The minimum light wattage I have ever grown these under was 50w. But my plants are all MUCH happier with 80w or more! (Most enjoy more) KEEP YOUR SARRACENIA OUTDOORS IF YOU CAN! They love lots of sun.

    3) Heating... Absolutely needed or do the cool white lights generate more then enough warmth? Maybe even too much? :D If so do I really need a cooler... *Hhmmz...*

    With the lights above your tank and if your room temperature is at least 20c then you shouldn't have ANY trouble giving the plants the temp they enjoy. Don't worry about alternative heating unless your room temperature can drop below 4c. :D

    4) When you reach the optimal heat level, will there automatically be enough humidity or do you need to perform some sort of special ritual or something to make it perfect? ^^

    Don't do anything. The heat from the room will be enough. If your plants are all watered or even in water trays the humidity will be fine. Don't mist your plants with distilled water unless you notice a significant drop in humidity. Besides, drosera don't enjoy being misted. Thus, unless you place a fan-heater inside your tank, the humidity will be 80% or higher.

    Can’t think of more possible problems at the moment but I’m sure there are many more so any additional information is appreciated. :D

    Also make sure your terrarium has a lid. You can make one out of Plexi-glass if it doesn't already have one. If you do have a lid, make sure there are at least two 2.5cm gaps in the lid on each end to provide for air circulation. Without circulation you are opening your tank for definite fungal and algal colonies!

    About the lights. Depending on where in your house or apartment you have the terrarium you could use lamps, clamp lights, or build a light ballast yourself. Be creative, there are plenty of cheaper ways to support the bulbs above your plants, without having to surrender and buy anything at the Hema or Blokker. ;)

    Good Luck, Phyrex. And as always feel free to PM me if you have any questions. :D

  10. On the EBay auction they claim all plants are from a plantation.

    Flowers are from Plantation Grown plants.

    But, I don't know. If these people REALLY grow the plants why do they massacre them for CUT FLOWERS!!! Are they idiots? Don't they ever SEE the real flower they produce! Find they no intrigue in these beautiful plants?

    Sigh...

  11. Thanks for the reply and the pic! That Aliciae seedling matches mine very well! It also makes sense with the growth pattern. All the rosettes are growing at different angles than each other, and that is a characteristic of Aliciae.

    Tim,

    The plants you sent Jerry have made it to me! I really like them! Thanks for the plants! (Indirectly)

    Looks like the consensus is Nidiformis and Aliciae. I am glad to. I have a couple capollaris already. Plus, the Nidiformis is doing really well and looks great!

    :D Thanks again everyone!

  12. Unlike the now ID'd Nidiformis, the plant pictured above hasn't really burst with growth! The dew is moderate too. I wonder if the moss is choking the plant. I just can't figure out whether it's a good idea to pull the plant up and weed out the moss.

    Does anyone here think I should get rid of that moss? It seems to be almost too much intertwined tightly with the plant...

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