Prompt

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Posts posted by Prompt


  1. X Dave Evans:

     

    My experience about the white LED is based on the cultivation of different species, Heliamphora, Nepenthes, Drosera South American and South African.
    For about year, I am experiencing sowing under white LEDs and are born from seed successfully: Roridula gorgonias, highland nepenthes, Drosera ultramafica , Drosera regia, Drosera chrysolepis.
     
    If using a single shade of white led, I believe that the neutral white is the one with the best range for the wavelengths that can receive and convert photosynthesis plants.
     
    I personally, if I can, I build the lamps with two types of white, this allows for the maximum spectrum for plants using only white LEDs.
     
    Prompt

  2. I messed up, I mean lumens indeed :)

     

    The neutral white does best in the blue range compared to warm-white, but less than the range of red, deep red. I think it is a middle ground between the cool and warm tones.
     
    I personally use two white simultaneously: neutral-white + warm-white, in some cases, cool white + warm white.
    Therefore the warm white for me should never be lacking.
     
    Prompt

  3. Hello, I cultivate some years using white LEDs and they work fine.

    Are you sure 200w fluorescent are only 6000 lux? usually a white fluorescent lamp is around 70 lux/watts, therefore 200w correspond on average to 14000lux.

     


    Taking as reference the watt, a modern white LED is more efficient than a flurescent lamp of about 30% -35%, wrote an article about AIPC Magazine where I explained the difference.

     

    If you use only one shade of white, I suggest the neutral white also called natural white, the color index is around 4500-5000K.

     

    Prompt


  4. Hello, I cultivate only with white LEDs, and in my years of cultivation under smd led, I can tell you with certainty that the 5050 are efficient for terrariums less than 50 cm high, exceeded this height you have to pass to the LEDs with additional optics.  

     

    My calculation for your 85cm x 60cm terrarium  is 6 strips of a 1 meter (about 85Watt). 

     

    The configuration that I recommend is to put striped warm-white and neutral white with a ratio of 1: 1. 

     

    You must also be attentive to the adhesive strips because it tends to detach due to the heat. 

     

    I personally use the rigid strips led that are much better for the installation.

     

    Prompt

    • Like 1

  5. Hello Gubbtjuven,

     

    For the thermostat, follow the link:

     

    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Universal-Automatic-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-220V-Control-Switch-TK0127/1713222875.html

     

    I connected the thermostat on the green wire (power) of the power supply, see figure: 
     
    gallery_8021_877_7906.jpg
     
    When the green wire is connected to ground, the power supply is turned on, when the green wire is disconnected from the ground, the power supply shuts down.
     
    Prompt

  6. Here is the cool devices, since the outer side, the components are all of the highest quality, this choice allows you to have a background noise imperceptible and flawless operation.

    The choice of components was long and laborious, the cost of the components is not negligible, around 150 euro. 

    Consumption when turned on is about 80 watts and if the terrarium is well insulated it is possible to determine the power consumption per liter, for this project is approximately 0.89 watts per liter.

     

    gallery_8021_877_214392.jpg

     

    gallery_8021_877_185982.jpg


  7. Peltier cells if properly dissipated, have an efficiency of 50-60%, this means that approximately 40-50% of the energy consumed is wasted. Now do not know the efficiency of a compressor type that used in refrigerators.

    The term energy savings, refers to the entire realization of the terrarium and not to the single cell Peltier.

    With 80 watts of consumption can refrigerate well a terrarium of 90 liters, reducing the temperature by more than 9 degrees Celsius, the equivalent of less than one watt per liter.

    To make understandable my project, I put the measurements done and reported on the graph.

     

    cool system

     

    gallery_8021_877_13246.png

     

     

     

    Warm system

     

    gallery_8021_877_68704.png

    By analyzing the performance of the chart, and taking as reference a range of 2 degrees, we can easily derive the phases on and off. Taking the reference of 17.5 degrees we can see the cooling phase that lasts about 40 minutes and the resting phase of 5 minutes. Certainly a compressor refrigerator with gas is more efficient, but also more noisy and cumbersome, not to mention the installation and the cost.

    However, my project is based on obtaining the maximum energy savings by using an electronic solid-state, with the least possible noise .


  8. Hello,

    this is my new project of universal terrarium.

    I want to share my very positive experience with the construction of multi-purpose terrarium, all controlled by electronic thermostat.

    For the refrigerant I used a Peltier cell, for the warm part, we used a heating cable.

    For the walls of the terrarium I used extruded polystyrene panels and front with double sheet of plexiglass.

    I will update the topic step by step, to be lighter on the initial topic.

     

    My project schema :

     

    cool

    gallery_8021_877_14885.png

     

    Warm

     

    gallery_8021_877_123289.png

     

    cooling assembly diagram 

    gallery_8021_877_92977.png

     

    A) tank with pump

    B) water cooler

    C) cooling fan

    D) rubber tube

    E) Peltier cell block: peltier + heatsink + water block

    F) internal fan

    G) double glazing plexiglass

    H) polystyrene slab

    Prompt

    • Like 1

  9. Some of the advantages of LEDs are:

    equal lumens consume about half of the current of other lamps

    not require reflectors because the cone of light is about 140/150 degrees

    the distance from the plants can vary, just add or remove additional lenses

    The cost of a 10-watt LED is now less than a CFL lamp

    The brightness can be adjusted according to the needs

    The supply voltage is low voltage and is not dangerous

    The light emitted is devoid of heat, the only heat emitted is on the opposite face of the light beam

    their brightness decreases over time (we're talking 50 years and older)

    The disadvantages are:

    require an electronic driver (only for power LED)

    require a heatsink

    the spectrum of white light, not cover all the frequencies

    I hope I have been of help to your reflections

    Ciao

    Prompt


  10. I use LEDs without protection with humidity around 80%, it never happened a problem.

    From my experience, the moisture in the air does not create any problem to the electronics, while the condensate is more insidious. The LEDs still operate at low voltage, and then pure water and moisture do not create damage. If the water is rich in salts, then the question changes.

    Prompt


  11. Follow the indications of the mobile, the heat is very dependent on total power strips.

    Also, the more the temperature of the led chip is high and more their efficiency decreases.

    Another important factor is the power supply, the LED strips are manufactured to operate at 12 vdc stabilized.

    If the plants do not take color, it means that they do not receive enough light, so you can buy lenses that reduce the cone of light from 120/140° to 80 ° / 60 ° degrees or approaching the plants to the LEDs (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-High-quality-High-power-LED-Lens-CREE-XML-T5-T6-U2-Lens-10mm-Convex/219000_764984513.html), in according to the size.

    Prompt