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in Carnivorous Plants in Cultivation
Posted January 13, 2016
Posted January 7, 2016
in Terraria - Cultivation & Equipment
Posted March 11, 2015
X Dave Evans:
I messed up, I mean lumens indeed :)
Posted March 10, 2015
Posted February 24, 2015
Posted February 23, 2015
I present: Miss South America and her daughters
Posted October 4, 2014
Edited October 4, 2014 by Prompt
Posted September 11, 2014
For the thermostat, follow the link:
Posted August 21, 2014
Edited August 21, 2014 by Prompt
Posted August 20, 2014
Zoom view internal cool system, group: peltier (hidden from polystyrene panel), heatsink, silent fan, basket lock (red element).
The polystyrene panel is covered by an adhesive sheet mirror
Large view in terrarium, group: peltier, heatsink, silent fan
Posted August 16, 2014
Posted July 28, 2014
Edited July 28, 2014 by Prompt
Peltier cells if properly dissipated, have an efficiency of 50-60%, this means that approximately 40-50% of the energy consumed is wasted. Now do not know the efficiency of a compressor type that used in refrigerators.
The term energy savings, refers to the entire realization of the terrarium and not to the single cell Peltier.
With 80 watts of consumption can refrigerate well a terrarium of 90 liters, reducing the temperature by more than 9 degrees Celsius, the equivalent of less than one watt per liter.
To make understandable my project, I put the measurements done and reported on the graph.
By analyzing the performance of the chart, and taking as reference a range of 2 degrees, we can easily derive the phases on and off. Taking the reference of 17.5 degrees we can see the cooling phase that lasts about 40 minutes and the resting phase of 5 minutes. Certainly a compressor refrigerator with gas is more efficient, but also more noisy and cumbersome, not to mention the installation and the cost.
However, my project is based on obtaining the maximum energy savings by using an electronic solid-state, with the least possible noise .
this is my new project of universal terrarium.
I want to share my very positive experience with the construction of multi-purpose terrarium, all controlled by electronic thermostat.
For the refrigerant I used a Peltier cell, for the warm part, we used a heating cable.
For the walls of the terrarium I used extruded polystyrene panels and front with double sheet of plexiglass.
I will update the topic step by step, to be lighter on the initial topic.
My project schema :
cooling assembly diagram
A) tank with pump
B) water cooler
C) cooling fan
D) rubber tube
E) Peltier cell block: peltier + heatsink + water block
F) internal fan
G) double glazing plexiglass
H) polystyrene slab
Posted June 13, 2014
Edited June 13, 2014 by Prompt
Some of the advantages of LEDs are:
equal lumens consume about half of the current of other lamps
not require reflectors because the cone of light is about 140/150 degrees
the distance from the plants can vary, just add or remove additional lenses
The cost of a 10-watt LED is now less than a CFL lamp
The brightness can be adjusted according to the needs
The supply voltage is low voltage and is not dangerous
The light emitted is devoid of heat, the only heat emitted is on the opposite face of the light beam
their brightness decreases over time (we're talking 50 years and older)
The disadvantages are:
require an electronic driver (only for power LED)
require a heatsink
the spectrum of white light, not cover all the frequencies
I hope I have been of help to your reflections
Posted December 13, 2013
It is sufficient that cover only the contacts with silicone or with varnish or nail enamel.
For the body of the LED does not need any protection.
Posted December 12, 2013
I use LEDs without protection with humidity around 80%, it never happened a problem.
From my experience, the moisture in the air does not create any problem to the electronics, while the condensate is more insidious. The LEDs still operate at low voltage, and then pure water and moisture do not create damage. If the water is rich in salts, then the question changes.
Posted November 30, 2013
Edited November 30, 2013 by Prompt
Follow the indications of the mobile, the heat is very dependent on total power strips.
Also, the more the temperature of the led chip is high and more their efficiency decreases.
Another important factor is the power supply, the LED strips are manufactured to operate at 12 vdc stabilized.
If the plants do not take color, it means that they do not receive enough light, so you can buy lenses that reduce the cone of light from 120/140° to 80 ° / 60 ° degrees or approaching the plants to the LEDs (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-High-quality-High-power-LED-Lens-CREE-XML-T5-T6-U2-Lens-10mm-Convex/219000_764984513.html), in according to the size.
Posted November 11, 2013
Not only for Nephentes, you can also cultivate other species under this light intensity
Posted November 10, 2013
If you use only linear fluorescent lamps and / or CFL, you need a power of about 400 watts / 450 watts.
Hello Vincent, hygrometers measure the humidity from 0 to 100%, I have seen no hygrometers that measure different moisture.
We growers do not need professional hygrometers, most of us, use digital hygrometers low cost found in any oriental shop, supermarket or electronics stores.
I use a digital thermometer/hygrometers with probe, paid 8 euro.
Posted November 9, 2013
If you write the area you want to illuminate I can tell you how many total watts are needed.
Posted November 8, 2013
The lack of color is due to many factors, the most important:
Distance light plants
Type of light is not suited to plants
I suggest you put the cfl phytostimulants, especially with accentuation of the red band.
Posted November 2, 2013
Edited November 2, 2013 by Prompt
Yes, you can put it to 1.5 meters,
but then you need to cover all the surface with a consumption of 130 watts?
It is better to opt for a different lamp?
If you write the area you want to illuminate I can tell you how many watts are needed.