brad

Howard, Nice dissection of the ‘Tarnok’ flower. Great photos, beautiful specimens. The seeds look perfect and viable. For final proof that ‘Tarnok’ is fertile, at least as a seed parent. Give us a quick update when you get germination. Brad Ventura California

Kitchen refrigerator, cold wet stratification, 2 weeks worked fine with S. leucophylla, 3 weeks worked fine with S. flava. I routinely use 4 weeks which always works for me. Some report that S. purpurea purpurea does better with 6 weeks stratification. Regarding Southern California, outdoor stratification will work because I always get stray Sarracenia seedlings popping up naturally here. However I do not know how long it will take to get germination this way. If you cold wet stratify in the fridge for 4 weeks, you can easily get good uniform germination 2 weeks later if you provide the seeds with good growing conditions. Brad Ventura California

I am curious: If respected CP growers told you that baby VFT need dormancy, what would you do to provide this dormancy? If respected CP growers told you that baby VFT do not need dormancy, what would you do to provide continued growing conditions? In my experience baby VFT do not need a dormancy. So now what do you do? When the seedlings are well established, tips to get them to grow faster are found at the ICPS web site Germination Guide which includes a recommendation of repotting. Feeding the traps or providing weak foliar fertilization and repotting are reported to give stimulation to get them growing bigger by many growers. Brad Ventura California

Alex (Glider), Please explain the theories you are testing. I do not have any theories. But regarding your VFT, refrigerator and mulching. Both sets should do fine, if you do things correctly. If you put a healthy VFT rhizome into the refrigerator, then later you should be able to remove the same healthy VFT rhizome from the refrigerator. You are just buying time, until your growing conditions improve and you are able to grow them again. Mulching VFT is protecting them from harsh cold and elements that you feel is beyond what the plant could tolerate without the mulch protection. Both techniques have been performed successfully by many VFT growers, so I am not sure what you are proving. Brad Ventura California Disclaimer: If you cannot provide your VFT with a decent growing environment, it is your responsibility to provide your VFT with a decent growing environment.

Vraev, If you want to continue to grow your VFT under lights that is fine. I would use at least four 4 foot florescent cool white light tubes. The plants should be about 12 inches from the bulbs. I would use 16 hr/day length. This would be an excellent poor person’s setup. I would grow the plants in pots so you can control the water amount. I would grow them in the day at 70 – 80 F. Occasionally feed your plants in the traps appropriate insects, or possibly foliar weak dilute fertilizer. I would use an open top terrarium if a terrarium must to be used, good ventilation is best. Acclimated VFT can tolerate fairly low humidity. If your light is strong enough to support healthy growth there is really no need for so called dormancy. Just keep them growing. In Nature dormancy occurs so plants can survive the poor growing conditions of cold temperatures and short daylength that occurs in late fall and early winter. It also sets up the timing that VFT’s key on to flower together. It allows the seed to be set early to mid summer so the seedlings have a chance of growing and then surviving their first winter. Since you will be providing an excellent artificial light source, just grow them. Brad Ventura California Experiment, experiment, experiment, experiment Use different soil mixes, use pure peat, use pure sphagnum, use different size pots, grow some closer to the lights, some farther, feed some, starve some. experiment, experiment, experiment, experimenT

“I imagine only the Bulldozer has killed more VFT than the windowsill.” It is a bad joke. Seriously, appropriate windowsills are excellent places to grow CP. Brad Ventura California

Rob, I have no clue to your actual growing conditions. But a plant on a window sill often gets more sunlight this time of year that it would in mid Summer. This is due to the angle of the sun being lower in the sky and actually having a better angle to light the room. Maybe, to the plant the daylength in Summer was decreasing, because light was traveling over the house instead of into it, and now as more light enters the room in Fall giving the plant the false impression of increasing daylength. Typically the VFT flower bud forms in the rhizome in late Fall. As conditions allow in late winter and spring the flower bud will grow until it flowers. VFT have been known to flower anytime of year. Fall is a good time for the odd Sarracenia or VFT to flower. A window sill is not the ideal setting to make accurate observations regarding the growth responses of plants. There are just too many variables involved. Every house is different, every window is different. Brad Ventura California I imagine only the Bulldozer has killed more VFT than the windowsill.

The best way to grow CP better, is to experiment, and try to improve your growing techniques. My simple way of repotting is basically a poorly controlled experiment. Like I said when I divide a VFT, the divisions each go into a new pot with a new soil mix, the main plant goes back to where it was. With this technique a grower can decide which is best by observing the exact VFT clones response. Not a perfect experiment but good enough for me. I forgot to mention in my previous post, if a prized VFT appears to be ailing even slightly, I will repot with a new substrate mix every time. I still recommend annual repotting however. It is the standard which all variations on repotting cycles should be compared. Brad Ventura California

I believe in the theory to repot VFT annually. I believe any time is a good to repot VFT, but winter is best, if you can time it just before the breaking of so called dormancy. However in practice I have never done it this way. Most of my VFT are in their original soil mix to this day. I have VFT in pure sand for 5 years doing fine, I have VFT in pure peat for 4 years doing fine, I have VFT in pure LFS (long fiber sphagnum) for 5 years doing fine. I have VFT in varying ratio mixes of peat moss and sand doing fine for 4 years. The only time a VFT gets new soil is when it is divided and the divisions get a new pot and new soil. The main plant usually goes back into its old pot and soil. I never routinely repot VFT. Seedlings and small VFT, obviously need repotting as they get larger. Brad Ventura California

Here are my long winded thoughts: Jeffery has shown pictures of different ailing VFT during the past 6 months or so. The common abnormality I see in all his photos is Root Rot. Root Rot is caused by many problems either singly or in combination. The most common cause for Root Rot in VFT cultivation is over watering. I know water is not the cause, because I have grown VFT completely aquatic, under water for more than 6 months. Over watering using the tray method, causes a constellation of problems of which any one could cause Root Rot. It is not the water itself, but could be microorganisms including algae and bacteria, their toxins, and their metabolism which depletes oxygen and produces waste products. How do I know that over watering is a problem for Jeffery. Because he keeps 2 inches of water in the tray. Over watering for one grower may not be over watering for another. For Jeffery’s conditions he is over watering. Is over watering the only problem Jeffery has, I do not know for certain. The only thing I know for certain is that with 2 inches of water in the tray Jeffery is over watering. He needs to experiment with all variables to grow his VFT better, in the conditions he has. For Jeffery larger pot size would be helpful, avoiding water stagnation would help, he may need to feed or fertilize his plants, the list is endless. But one variable he has got wrong, for his growing conditions is over watering. Jeffery also has issues with poor seasonal variation, high heat, a lot of cloud cover, a lot of rain. Jeffery will have to experiment a bit. He should also contact the successful grower he knows for information and help. A hobbyist with Root Rot problems should set things up to require daily watering, ie the tray is dry 24 hours later, and then is refilled. If the tray dries out prematurely, a larger tray will be better than filling a smaller tray too high. The tray still needs to dry out completely everyday, to be certain this is not the variable causing the Root Rot. Root Rot can be caused by many problems, such as poor water quality, poor soil substrate, fertilization of roots, pests etc,etc,etc. But over watering is one variable that can be easily corrected if this is the problem. Brad Ventura California Disclaimer: Why did my ailing VFT still die after I corrected my watering techniques? Because over watering can often ruin the soil substrate as I have alluded to above (waste products, toxins etc). If bacteria, algae have affected the soil, it may be technically ruined. Repotting will be necessary and then proper watering techniques maintained. Growing healthy VFT is very easy, I mean very complex.

Maybe it is only me but ---- “they are allowed to stand in around 2 inches until the tray dries up so that all sounds ok.” --- that does not sound OK to me. A VFT in a possible 4 inch pot allowed to stand in 2 inches of water until it dries up, is over watering to me. Hot growing conditions and stagnant water will kill VFT. If it is raining your VFT does not need a water tray. In your hot humid conditions a VFT might get by with ¼ inch of water in the tray, replenish when that dries up. You need to experiment. Find out how the place you bought the VFT from grows them. They seem to know how to grow VFT. Brad Ventura California

VFT do not adapt to anything. To have success growing VFT means the plants tolerate the growing conditions you provide for them. There are numerous variables to successful growing. The VFT do not adapt to them, they either tolerate them or languish and die. Get enough of the variables right and you will have success, get even one variable wrong and you may kill your plants. Placing a VFT in the refrigerator is not a variable of successful VFT growing. Placing a VFT in the refrigerator basically puts a halt to growth of the plant, usually at a time when a grower is not in position to grow the VFT well. It is not dormancy, it is a time buying process, until growing conditions are better. Dormancy happens in Summer and Fall, a long process, in which the rhizome actually strengthens and readies for harsh conditions to come. Winter is not dormancy, Winter is the down time where, halt of growth is endured until growing conditions improve and the plant can grow again, Spring. My VFT tolerate my conditions, they have not adapted to anything. Brad Ventura California Variables include soil, water, light, temperature, nutrition, daylength, pest attack etc.

How about 12,000 fresh 2006 VFT seed, free to the first 200 growers? Old seeds are like fine ferments, they just get older with age. Brad Ventura California

VFT Dormancy is determined by daylength, not temperature. VFT have growth cycles throughout the year determined by daylength. Dormancy initiation begins in late Summer, often the hottest time of the year, and continues into the Fall. In winter they wait, for increasing daylength and enough warmth to allow them to grow again. Temperature only seems to regulate growth rate. Warmer allows faster growth. Cold slower growth, to a point near freezing which halts growth. Putting a VFT in the refrigerator will only slow or stop growth, it is not Dormancy. Sure it will start to grow again when you remove it, often a burst of growth due to the stimulation of the warmth, but the plant will be as weak as it was when you put it into the refrigerator. In Southern California when an outdoor grown VFT breaks dormancy, often late February, it shows robust growth with very large traps, 2-3 times the size of winter traps. When a VFT breaks a True Dormancy it is an impressive sight. Brad Ventura California Disclaimer: VFT do not have a Dormancy, they just grow in predictable growth cycles throughout the year. If you freeze them they stop growing, if you dry them out they stop growing. But there is never a Dormancy with a happy VFT.

Hi Bob, I guess I wasn’t very clear to you, to cause such confusion. I do not know what ‘All Red’ VFT Ron Gagliardo used, but from his words in his description he is describing ‘Holland Red’ or a direct descendent of ‘Holland Red’. I do not know what the ‘other VFT’ Ron Gagliardo used, but from his words in his description he is describing the ‘German Dentate’, ‘Dentata’ also known as ‘Sawtooth’. So in summary, in my words for simplicity, a VFT cross of ‘Holland Red’ and ‘Sawtooth’. Ron Gagliardo, says ‘Red Dragon’ is a result of this cross. Why don’t you just call Ron yourself. I have found him easy to reach. Brad Ventura California

Intentional selfing of ‘Holland Red’ you would end up with ‘All Red’ VFT progeny. All Red appears to be transmitted in a recessive fashion, but that does not mean it is a recessive trait. It could be two or more genes with variable interaction and phenotypic expression. An accidental selfing means, one pollen grain, two pollen grains or how many ‘All Red’ VFT result, pollen grains from the ‘Holland Red’ strike at the stigmatic surface of a ‘Holland Red’ flower. Since this was not intentional by the breeder, it is an accidental occurrence, an accidental selfing of a few seeds. Accidents do happen, a lot. Brad Ventura California

I agree with Sean. ‘Red Dragon’ is the result of an accidental selfing of ‘Holland Red’. Accidents do happen, a lot. Brad Ventura California

Hi Tim, I have experienced this every year too. Some clones do not seem to ever produce pollen for me. For example VFT “Fang” and its 10 flowering clones, have never produced a noticeable grain of pollen for me in the past 3 years. This year has been very cool here, coldest Spring ever. Pollen production has been very poor. It seems that cooler temps inhibit pollen production. When temperatures are above maybe 75 degrees F for the daily high, then pollen production improves. The warmer the temperatures the better the pollen production it seems. Good luck. If you want some fresh VFT seeds, PM me your address. Brad Ventura California

Hi, VFT do best as surface germinators. Strong seedlings maybe could handle a few millimeters of peat or sand on top of them as they germinate. If you value this seed, this is what I would do. When first sown VFT seeds will float. There is still a chance that your seeds or portion of them may float, you never know. Anyway I would wet the substrate and gently loosen it up, hoping some seeds would still float. Then you could retrive them and try to sow them again. Good luck trying to make the best of a bad situation. Brad Ventura California

Trev, Nice photos. I thought everyone clipped the VFT flower stalks right when they noticed them, I guess not you. The two 'Sawtooths' look like identical twins. They appear to be very special VFT. 'Jaws' looks a bit dangerous. "More to follow..." that is very good news. Brad Ventura California

Hi Ries, That is my photo. I believe the best S. x moorei are the ones that show a pitcher form most like S. flava and the coloration most like S. leucophylla. Of all the S. x moorei I have seen S. Adrian Slack is amoung the best. This S. x moorei however is about 50/50 in form and color and is beautiful. Not as nice as Slack, but still a nice specimen. This S. x moorei is from Dean Cook of Cook’s Carnivorous Plants. It is growing in the collection of Joel of the ‘Nepenthes Around the House’ web site. You could contact either of them for more information. Here is the thread with the Spring pitcher picture you found and another pic of the plant from Autumn with two Fall pitchers of this clone. http://www.cpukforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6771 Good luck, Brad Ventura California

Rob, I actually see three healthy new growing leaf buds, 2 upper mid center (at the height of the pot rim) and 1 lower mid center (just breaking the soil surface level), all well seen in your second photo. These are perfect healthy new leaf growths that will be your next set of new traps. No problem there. Regarding the two aborted leaf buds with black growths they are insignificant now. They may however be the beginnings of a new division of the rhizome under the soil surface. Or they may be leaves that were formed in the transition period as the plant grew a new root. Or they formed during a time of shock to the plant, transplanting, or too much water, or too little water at a critical time in their development. However, those three new leaf buds look fine for now. Good luck, Brad Ventura California

Aidan, I agree and disagree. The problem of accurately identifying cultivars and named plants is also a problem with all genera of CP. You really have to trust your source. Regarding VFT, I enjoy keeping track of the history of this plant. There is even historical controversy regarding the name Dionaea muscipula (Ellis or Solander) who really named it? There is the annual exchange regarding Slack VFT? South West Giant? G16? There is always confusion involving all the VFT associated with Colin Clayton. ‘Dentate’ is misspelled to this day Dente, by its original and continued mass supplier. Even the origin of ‘Royal Red’ found its way to the Legal Courts of Australia. This is a thread about a Named VFT called Green Dragon. So I will comment on it. Its name is a misnomer, because when well grown it’s just another Red VFT in the confusing mix of the many All Red VFT. Also the originator and main source of Green Dragon has discontinued production of this plant. Brad Ventura California

Shiela, You know VFT are very variable in their growth habit consistency. Observations regarding the redness in VFT vary too much, in the “All Red’ VFT and even in “Typical” VFT. They become red and redder when it suits them. Hopefully your VFT are correctly labeled, I am sure they are. Chloroplastik, ‘Red Dragon’ is a selfing of ‘Holland Red’ because: 1. The “All Red” trait of ‘Holland Red’ behaves in a Recessive Trait fashion. It may not even be a single gene expression, but multiple crossings have shown it to be at least transmitted in a Recessive fashion. 2. When Ron Gagliardo crossed ‘Holland Red’ x ‘Sawtooth’ he got 20 seeds from the ovary of ‘Holland Red’. 7 grew out and then he selected 1, the ‘Red Dragon’. To get a Recessive trait phenotype in a single crossing means that the ‘Holland Red’ was selfed (accidentally). 3. Additional evidence, is since the origin of ‘Red Dragon’ it has been itself used in multiple crossings and selfings, and the progeny show no tendency to a reduced tooth form (ie Sawtooth). I have personally spoken to Ron Gagliardo and he confirmed that the ‘Red Dragon’ is a seed from ‘Holland Red’ after a single crossing with ‘Sawtooth’. Julie, Regarding your information on DENTATA, SAWTOOTH, CLAYTON'S VOLCANIC RED, ROYAL RED, and GREEN DRAGON. Where did you obtain your information? This is all new to me. Brad Ventura California

Can’t really tell much about that seedling. Could be unhappy and stunted from the surface algae that is present on the sphagnum. Maybe in time the VFT will grow enough in size to be able to see it better. Brad Ventura California