brad

Full Members
  • Content Count

    180
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ventura, California
  • Interests
    dionaea, sarracenia, darlingtonia

Recent Profile Visitors

1,729 profile views
  1. brad

    Natural red form

    The first "All Red" VFT plant ever documented, is a VFT named "Holland Red". VFT "Holland Red" is also the only "All Red" VFT to be documented wild collected as its origin. "Holland Red" is still grown in many VFT collections today. Also "Holland Red" is the direct parent plant of the VFT "Red Dragon" and "Green Dragon", and possibly the parent of some other "All Red" VFT. If you want the only documented, wild collected "All Red" VFT then get a "Holland Red". Brad Ventura California
  2. Amar asked: "how would say one can prevent it?" Well if you have classic root rot, then following the advice above of Steve (xscd) is perfect. Other ideas include, watering just enough to require daily watering, lessens the water stagnation situation. Also occasional top watering and discarding the flow through is helpful. If you soil substrate has degenerated or is algae laden repotting to a new fresh soil substrate will help. If a plant is suffering root rot it may be necessary to slowly nurture it back to health, before exposing it to harsh growing conditions. Brad Ventura California
  3. Classic VFT root rot, which then quickly leads to rhizome rot is most often caused by bacterial overgrowth in the soil substrate. The bacteria consume the oxygen and release waste products into the soil. Generally it is due to bad luck and promoted by the stagnant nature of the water techniques we employ in growing CP. The process of root rot seems to often be initiated by a heat wave. This stimulates the bacteria to grow faster, therefore consuming more soil oxygen and creating more toxic waste products, at a time when the plant itself needs more oxygen and clean soil substrate. This results in root death and then several weeks later rhizome rot. Brad Ventura California
  4. brad

    Shrinking Flytrap

    Hi, Your first picture shows a VFT that looks like it is going into late Fall and Winter growth. The aborted traps on the older and newer leaves, show that the plant is stressed. Not sure why it is stressed, again could be any number of reasons or combination of reasons. The plant is obviously alive and waiting for better times. You describe a couple of roots being at the bottom of the pot. Those are old roots. You need to see at least one or two short healthy roots at the end of the growing point, these are the new roots which will support new growth. Also, underground you should have seen several new leaf buds and a very small flower bud arising from the growing point. Whatever is stunting this VFT, your repotting in new substrate will eliminate the substrate as the problem. Good luck, Brad Ventura California
  5. brad

    Shrinking Flytrap

    When VFT revert from the winter growth (small short wide petiole and small trap) to spring growth, they do it with strong growth (larger petiole and large or at least larger traps). The breaking of dormancy therefore, shows very strong healthy growth. Anything less is just not normal. You have a nice experiment. You have a healthy plant that has broken dormancy with you stating: “the "all green" plant has clearly woken up and throwing out new traps almost daily.” Then the other plant is clearly unhealthy and is declining and you state: “However, the other plant which I believe is just a "typical" type seems to be continuing to shrink” There you have it, a healthy VFT and a sick VFT. Regarding the sick VFT you can wait it out, or you can investigate, you can repot or not, that is what makes the hobby fun and a challenge. Again the normal breaking of dormancy is strong robust growth. Anything less is just not normal, for any number of reasons Brad Ventura California
  6. brad

    Wakey wakey

    Pictures can be very deceiving, and I hope this picture is. It appears to me that the back petiole is rotted at the soil surface (center of the plant at the soil surface). In addition there seems to be other rotting leaves. If these rotting leaves are new growth then the plant is declining. Hopefully my vision is just bad. Good luck with the new growing season. Brad Ventura California
  7. Very nice example of a Typical VFT displaying wide petioles with serrated edges. It is due to low light intensity. Your VFT seems to want stronger light. If you give your VFT better light conditions the new leaves will loose this trait. All the different VFT I grow can display this "wide petiole, serrated edge" trait, too. Brad Ventura California
  8. As stated by cgarry in the first response to this thread: “De-ionised water from Halfords is fine for CPs.” This is True. Deionized Water is perfect for CP. In fact Deionized Water is considered the purest water that can be reasonably produced, often purer than Distilled Water. Helleentje, wrote: “we cannot use de-ionised water as this merely swaps calcium and sodium icons. So that would rule out the Halfords de-ionised stuff.” This is incorrect. Seems like you are describing a process called Water Softening, which is bad for CP. Regarding Dionized Water, production of this water completely removes calcium and sodium ions from the water. In summary Deionized Water is amoung the best water for CP. Other easily obtainable and appropriate water would include Distilled, Reverse Osmosis, and Rain. Even as posted in another recent Thread, industrial produced Sterile Water is perfect for CP. Good luck in your quest for Pure Water, Brad Ventura California
  9. brad

    I Am Totally Lost

    Varun wrote: “when I watered today...it took a while for the water to come out... maybe a lot is being absorbed.” Probably not important, but when I top water any of my Pots (20 ml of pure water at once), water begins to run out the drain holes within seconds, easily within 30 seconds, probably less. OK, so it took a while for the water to come out, that is not helpful. Once you saturated the soil, then added more water, how is the drainage then?, that is what is important. You want good drainage, because this is the other place the pot communicates with the rest of the world. Also, if the soil substrate has not soured (no bad smell), which you state is the case, then hopefully things are on the road to recovery. Good luck, Brad Ventura California
  10. brad

    I Am Totally Lost

    First, regarding Dormancy, I do not believe VFT have a Dormancy. VFT grow in cycles throughout the year in response to daylength. Temperature allows the VFT to grow at certain rates. If it gets too cold to grow then the VFT stops growing. Some of the VFT in your photos are in Dormancy now. Their growth has arrested, they are basically Dormant. When a VFT stops growing it is Dormant regardless of the cause. I can see new growth emerging from those plants, so they are alive and kicking, hopefully it is just a one time bad event. Regarding repotting your VFT that is entirely up to you. CP growing is a hobby of fun, and as much as you want and allow, scientific discovery. Here is what I would do, it could even be dangerous, so you decide what you want to try. 1. Smell the surface of the substrate, bad smell is bad. 2. Smell the base of the pot at the drain holes, bad smell is bad. If so far, ok, then proceed. 3. Place pot in a clean bowl and top water, as the water emerges from the pot access if the drain holes are functioning as you want. After you get enough water collected in the bowl, remove the pot, and evaluate the color, quality, and also the smell of the water, bad smell is bad. 4. If everything is to your satisfaction, then hopefully this Summer Time Dormancy is a one time event and continue growing your VFT as best you can. Good luck, Brad Ventura California
  11. brad

    I Am Totally Lost

    Those aborted traps are again from stress. (duh, obvious) It is from failure of the roots being able to support the requirements of new growth, so the traps arrest in growth and die. It could be due to one or many different variables causing an unhappy plant. It could be a pest attack. The information that cuttings in the same pot are thriving tells a lot. It tells me that most of the growing variables are correct. So you have to figure out what are the microhabitat differences of two plants in the same pot. Pests attacking one plant and not the other is a possibility. Another possibility, is that typically a cutting’s roots are growing in more superficial (higher) layer of the soil substrate, and a mature plant’s roots will be growing very deep in the substrate. The superficial substrate will, if not infiltrated by algae, have more relative oxygen making the cuttings happy. However, the deep substrate will have less oxygen causing a toxic zone to the roots. Not only less oxygen, but a zone for anaerobic toxins to be created by bacteria. High heat levels will only accentuate this process. Often high heat levels are what initiate this process to begin with. So again, it could be a pest attack or any number of problems. Nicely discussed by HugoMorse is that overwatering may be the cause. But VFT cannot be overwatered in Theory. However VFT hate stagnant water complications of low oxygen levels and toxin accumulation. My guess is anoxic substrate leading to the time tested diagnosis of root rot. You may not have root rot yet, but the roots are not happy enough right now, to support healthy plant growth. If new healthy growth resumes you were able to ride out the storm. Otherwise repotting one of the affected plants into new substrate may show you exactly what is going on. Good luck, Brad Ventura California A VFT rule of thumb: “happy healthy roots, make happy healthy traps.”
  12. Every VFT grower knows, that each VFT grows differently year to year. They are not always consistent. Some years they are redder in color, some years they are lighter, that goes for All Red VFT too. Some years the traps are a bit bigger, some years they grow a bit more upright, any trait you observe can vary over time. The biggest factor being the exact growing conditions are impossible to keep exact. Even perfectly grown VFT eventually they cycle down, for any number of reasons, all due to their changing growing conditions. When they cycle down they begin to look like any number of other VFT. That is how all VFT grow, they have good months and bad months, they have pest attacks, they grow up to the pot edge, etc. etc. etc. Regarding trading Named VFT clones. You have to trust your source. And then grow them the best you can and enjoy. Nearly all the people involved in naming and distributing VFT clones that are discussed over and over again on these forums are alive and reachable by telephone, email, mail etc. If you want to know more about Red Dragons or Green Dragons or Petite Dragons or Red Piranhas or Clayton’s This or Clayton’s That or Creeping Death or Dentate or Dentata or South West Giant or basically any other reasonable Registered or Named VFT clone the originator is alive and reachable. If you grow your special VFT clone redder or larger than that what is described (published) or common knowledge, it is probably because you just grow it better than the originator or other growers do. Also, just because every All Green VFT you grow eventually shows some red coloration, don’t panic. Because All Green VFT do show some red at various times, regardless of what the originator publishes or tells you. Same goes for Big or Giant VFT, if the originator named it Giant then it is definitely a Giant in their mind. Keep your VFT well labeled, because I may want to trade with you in the future. Brad Ventura California
  13. That is a bit of sunburn, or if under strong artificial light, also a burn. Usually not much to worry about. It occurs during repotting in several ways. One way is if you potted the rhizome a bit higher than it had been previously, therefore the exposing the petiole bases which had been under soil, now exposing them to strong light. Another common way is that when a VFT grows normally the center of the rosette is very tight, but when repotted the center is a bit more lax and again exposing petiole bases to strong light which had previously been closely opposed and not exposed to light. A third possibility and probably in this situation not possible, you are just growing the VFT in stronger light than the previous grower, but I doubt this. So you have a bit of transplant sunburn (light burn), seems like the burn has been done, so just keep on growing them as you would all your other VFT. Good luck. Brad Ventura California Transplant sunburn is one problem. Transplant shock which is due to root disturbance is another. The two combined can really set a transplanted VFT back.
  14. Very simple, your plant has VFT transplant shock, from the repotting procedure, happens all the time. Just grow it the best you can and it will recover, hopefully soon. Small VFT are very fragile (Big VFT even have very fragile roots), but if it is making new leaves, this is good. When the new root forms, it will make strong traps for you. Brad Ventura California
  15. Alexis, brings up a good point. Newbies. The “Newbie Syndrome” is when everything the good intentioned Newbie does, is exactly the wrong thing at the wrong time. The well read very knowledgeable Newbie knows that VFT grow very well outdoors in Full Sun. Every Experienced Grower knows that the VFT is going to suffer some Sun Burn, not a big deal. But the Newbie soon sees the plant suffering, the once green petioles begin to redden, the traps begins to slowly blacken. Panic sets in, the plant is dying (not), the Newbie is frantic. The plant either comes indoors, or into shade or something worse. This is exactly the worst thing that can be done. The damage is done, the burn has occurred, now the Newbie has compounded the problem by trying to protect the plant, the new growth is now being shaded, the plant will now truly weaken and possibly spiral slowly to its doom. If the VFT had just been left out in the sun the new growth would get a better start for the sun loving VFT. Brad Ventura California The “Newbie Syndrome” can be observed in Repotting Water Quality Watering too much Watering too little Terrarium Growing Reaction to Pests and even worse reacting to pests which are not there. Soil substrate The list is endless. Recommendation: do not be a Newbie for a long time, and even worse do not use the advice of Newbies. To really understand VFT takes time, they grow in an annual cycle, that takes a year in itself to experience. Do not let being a Newbie last you a lifetime.