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Rob-Rah

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Posts posted by Rob-Rah

  1. You can purchase an adaptor from an electrical retailer. You plug it into the wall and it generates a voltage you choose.

    To connect it to a PC fan you need to do some work. You need to solder the ends of the PCS fan's cables to an appropriate plug/jack which will plug into the adaptor, and then insulate the joint with some electrical tape. Not too hard.

  2. I grow mine in a 2' long fishtank (lowland terrarium) in my bedroom wiht no extra heat. About 4' from a E-facing window, with 15W lamp additionally. Temps are household (16/17C-whatever the weather gives us). It grows slowly but steadily, increasding size and pitchering. Best period seems to be late summer (Aug-Oct). The light adds heat in the daytime (it's on 8am-10pm).

    My "lowland" conditions are not as hot as many, but I grow N. northaiana, N. ampullaria, N. bellii in it (along with a few more inermediate growers: N. truncata, N. adnata). All do fine. I don't believe that "true lowlanders" need it quite as insistently tropical as the literature may imply, as long as you have some kind of aertificial heat (a light seems enough) to warm them and evaporate the necessary atmospheric humidity for at least some of the time (aka when the light is on).

  3. I wouldn't recommend Disa for a terrarium necessarily. They really like fresh air. Then again if your highland terrarium is equipped with air-exchange it may be ok. Or are you growing in the open room and not in a terrarium?

    Dracula was mentioned earlier. This may like the temps and humidity, but it is a definite low-light genus and the higher light needed by your neps won't be appreciated. Some Masdevallia will do better, but these are also generally shade plants.

    Highland orchids that want more light, like Sophronitis and Odontoglossum/Rossioglossum species, would do better with highland neps.

    Cheers.

  4. Dracunculus is quite hardy without extra protection unless we get prolonged subzero temps for several days at a time. Have to avoid the tuber freezing solid, but as it's underground it seems quite resistant to it. Mine have been outside in SW London for 4 years with no extra protection. Snow might well help insulate it in a way that prolonged freeze doesn't.

    I also leave my Arisaema outside all year, but they are planted deeeeeep to insulate against cold. Around 8"-10" deep.

  5. I have T. chanteri and T. integrifolia. I have had them a few years now. They never seem to do very well, the foiliage tending to dry at the tips before unfurling properly. The plats stay smallish. They are kept nice and humid.

    Does anyone grow them well, and who can tell what sort of conditions they acheive ths in please?

    Thanks.

  6. Bench-170

    Squat-200 (no spotter)

    Leg Press-dunno prolly 400 at least

    Deadlift-135 (no spotter)

    Wide Pullups-16

    Chinups-25

    Pushups-61

    1 Mile- <6 min

    5k- 21 min

    10k- 36 min

    Shrug-150

    Clean & Press- 70?? (dumbbell.. no spotter dont wanna fk up back. haha.)

    Single rep, or sets of what?

  7. madagascariensis likes to be kept warm during the winter months as well.

    Although a minimum of 40F is ok too. The plant dies back at low temperatures, but just keep the soil moist (not standing in water) and the plant will bounce back again in spring.

  8. I grow N. fusca on my NWW-facing bedroom windowsill.

    Do you grow it in a terrarium or aquarium???

    Do you know the humidity in %?

    Just on the windowsil in a pot. No cover. The humidity will be lowish. UK outdoors is something like 50-60% - indoors will be a little less. 40%-60% maybe?

    It was labelled "dark form" and came from Cantharifera - suppliers for one of the big distributors, but I forget which now.

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