Rob-Rah
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Posts posted by Rob-Rah
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Just bumping.... no-one have any advice on waterproof level and the power output of these for the space I have in mind?
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It will be rather unstable in such a bottle, but the depth is ok. I would sink it into a wide pot of soil to stop it falling over. Older Drosophyllum are straggling and sprawling. I plant seeds directly into 10" or 12" full length clay pots.
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I find I get germination best in autumn and spring, when nights drop to around 5C but days in the greenhouse are still warm and in the 20s. I wouldn't think it would be happy sucessful germinating outdoors in the UK at present, or anywhere where the night temps are still getting down to freezing (though the plant once germinated might be ok, the seeds need a degree of heat to germinate).
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Hi,
I am planning to place lights inside/outside (?) my cold-frame terrarium in my greenhouse to assist with highland growing in there in the winter, when the UK is too dark. The tank is very humid (heated by waterbath in winter, and with ultrasonic fogger in summer) and 4 feet long x by 3 feet deep.
Can someone tell me if the thing below looks ok to use? Importantly, do these things make a lot of heat, either upwards (i.e. will they fry whatever sits above them on the staging) or radiated downwards (into the tank)?
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.js...49&id=11408
Thanks for any help.
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Just thought I'd start this as no doubt a number of people have procured the small U. campbelliana plants recently offered on this forum. (I will be getting mine soon.)
The supplier is not available to enter into a back-and-forth discussion on the forum here, but has kindly supplied me with his growing conditions just to pass on on here:
High humidity above 80 percent, pure peat, high lighting levels (tube light about 10 cm above it), temperature not above 25 Degrees and better below 20. They like a change in day night temperature of about 10 degrees. They do not like terrestirial conditions and waterlogging. Just keep it moderate wet. I use very old pure peat, from the bricks they used for heating, and a mixture of dead spaghnum and peat will do as well.Do know these are my condition and it is quite hard to keep them, maybe there are other ways.
Do any of the people here who have the plants want to enter into a discussion about their own (proposed/extant) techniques?
Cheers.
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Just been looking back at old topics and found that I posted myself about a late-start to the tuberous season last year too... http://www.cpukforum.com/forum/viewtopic.p...&highlight=
Maybe this is normal....
Cheers.
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Just reporting back.... the high light treatment worked well (a foot from a 125W Envirolite bulb - sharing a tank with petiolaris sundews, which are raised nearer the light) and the plants have grown quicker and produced larger pitchers.
Cheers.
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No. I didn't have the heart to curtail its little display, as I'd never seen a flower before :-o Pics were posted somewhere on here in spring last year...
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I wetted mine back in the middle of Oct, then placed into a water tray towards the middle of Nov, and only just noticed the growth.
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Back to this topic again.....
I have the first leaf of one of my pots of the U. menziesii showing above the soil today. Yay. So it's not dead. :-)
No sign from the second pot yet.
Anyone else seeing growth yet?
Cheers.
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My tuberous drosera are very late emerging this year.
D. macrantha and D. whittakeri are up and growing. D. erythrorhiza has just emerged today. No sign yet of D. menziesii, D. platypoda, D. stolonifera or D. gigantea.
My D. cistilora also only just emerged last week.
Don't know why they're so late!
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All of mine are overwintered at frost-free (i.e. heated to a smidge above zero Celsius as the minimum):
H. nutans
H. heterodoxa
H. minor
H. elongata
H. hispida
They grow more slowly than if kept warmer (I used to do so), but it certainly doesn't hurt them. I imagine they appreciate warm days if the nights get that cold though.
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Sarracenia are mosty sessile.
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I only grow D. paradoxa and D. ordensis in my unheated propagator. The lights (on from 9am-10pm) are very bright and also heat the tank nicely while on, up to around 30C. The nighttime drops to around 18C. The plants seem happy enough. Does the temperature requirement being talked about here apply day ad night, or just daytime?
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I grow mine in shade (one 15W fluorescent bulb, but the tank is in the edge of a room in the house and gets a little light from a nearby window, but not much, and no direct sun) and not too wet at the root, in a tank. Temps 16-30C, but mostly around 22-26C.
Perhaps a foot away from a rather brighter light (I don't know what you use) might be too much light for it.
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I have two plants growing happily an inch apart after germinating together... Been 14 months since I planted before germination occurred though - the cold nights starting at the end of summer seemed to trigger it.
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Check eBay for miniature cattail (Typha minima) - or google its scientific name. I also use Carex panicea in my tanks, as it's nice and small growing.
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I find that my tanks with plenty of rotting typha leaves on the bottom stay clearer of algae than those without (a couple of my utric tanks), and the Aldrovanda do superbly. Indeed, the one with the thickest layer (2") has been crystal clear for two years now. There is an article or two about this on the bestcarnivorousplants website, and it works like barley mats do in preventing pond algae I think.
I am hesitant about absolutely leached water for Aldrovanda, as they do not grow in sterile conditions the wild, and appreciate some nutrients in their water. This year I removed my water hyacinths from the Aldrovanda tanks (leaving typha and carex plants in there) and have seen just as good growth as in previous years.
Snails are great for helping out as well - they seem quite careful not to eat the Aldrovanda and strip the algae off it quite efficiently if there is ever is any, and they keep the sides of the tank clean too, and perhaps that stops algae getting a foothold. Addition of daphnia can assist with a sudden infestation of algae, but their presence under "normal" conditions seems to make no difference, and a stable tank will stay clean without them.
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I have given my first sprinklings of water to mine, as my tuberous drosera are sprouting from the tubers now. I plan to put in water in a few weeks time (end of Oct) and then to gradually raise the level.
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I think I remember reading results of tests somewhere where either smoke or GA3 actually inhibited germination in some seeds. I wonder if I can dig it out again.
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Lovely - can you post a pic of the pot, leaves, scape and flower all in the same shot, to give an idea of scale?
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Nepenthes would not respond to smoke though - they don't come from fire-prone areas. Unless you were just hoping against hope that they might respond....
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Errrrm. How are you heating this greenhouse, and how big is it? A small structure will be almost impossible to keep warm. It takes a large volume of air warmed up to be able to withstand the cooling effect of winter nights (unless the heater is large enough to apply direct heat to all parts of the greenhouse). Is it glazed to the ground or is there some kind of insultaion by concrete sides?
N.pervillei
in Carnivorous Plants in Cultivation
Posted
What conditions were you using, Bill?
I have grown this in the past and it does indeed expire very quickly when it decides to go....