Rob-Rah
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Posts posted by Rob-Rah
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What's it potted in? And in how large a pot?
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Does yours experience any kind of dormancy at 50F in winter?
Lovely plant!
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You could call them "open media" utrics?
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Well, I ought to know if it's any good within a few months.... :-)
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Yeah, post the pic please! We always get the pics of the flowers open on this plant. I have never personally seen a bud :-)
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Having had a tolerably stable little while with U. campbelliana growing in a mainly Seramis mix (Seramis with maybe up to 25% mix of dead LFS and small grade bark), I have repotted all my macro utrics into this mix (except nelumbifolia; and except for one plants of humboldtii, which I shall compare in pure live LFS to that in the Seramis mix). I was wondering if anyone else had tried this sort of media for these plants (U. alpina, longifolia, endresii, quelchii, praetermissa, geminiloba & asplundii). I will of course report back in due course.
The bonuses seem to be that the media is impossible to waterlog, but retains moisture well, and wicks up moisture well if it stands in shallow water. Almots hydroponic. It is also highly aerated and does not compact.
I have been using this mix for my Nepenthes for a year now, and the root systems are stronger than in any other mix I have used.
Cheers.
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Sounds like the archive of Aldrovanda cultivation papers on www.bestcarnivorousplants.com
Cheers.
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Lots of sun??
I grow mine in the shade in an unheated greenhouse (under the staging) in a moist well-drained humus-rich soil (bark chips, composted bark, potting compost, sand, grit and perlite) in a big pot. It multiplies each year and flowers regularly. I wound't treat it to full sun, but brightish shade seems about right.
(Don't confuse it with Dracunculus, which does want full sun)
You can pot it rootless if you want to - just don't overwater it (or water it al all!). Roots tend to form properly once the leaf is unfurling (after flowering), and that is when you can water it normally.
Your tuber is a little small. It might flower, but don't worry if it doesn't. Mature tubers are around 12-15cm diameter.
Don't have it in the house (or greenhouse) when it flowers. The smell really is terrible.
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What the heck. I'll give it a go and see....
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Bumping again. These look like the best I can do for the space I have.
Further question....
This twin light fitting is 116W (2 x 58W Osram T8 1.5m). The lights will be around 1-2 feet away from the plants. The tank is under the staging in a greenhouse (I guess it's semi-shade to bright shade in summer, and shade in winter). I want to be able to make macro-utrics and highland neps happy. Is this going to be enough light?
Thanks.
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They don't need as much coddling as give mine; but I grow them in plastic mesh posts in an approx 50:50 LFS/seramis mix, 18" (diagonally) under a 125W Envirolite lamp in a tank. The temps are 28-35C in the day (due to the lamp) and 16-22C at night (normal household temps). I don't have a hygrometer so don't know the humidity in there.
From what I can tell, they really like the high light level, and the well-drained but wet soil.
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If it were in the sludge at the bottom o winter-wet pond, the bottom of the pond might stay above 4C due to the properties of density of water at 4C.... who knows.
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I grow mine in plant saucers, not pots, as I find it's a waste of compost otherwise as my roots seem to be shallow. The sort used for 6" pots and larger are usually an inch or 2 deep, and I skewer holes through the bases to drain. Overhead watering every day when growing and a fairly coarse mineral media.
Interesting to hear that they can produce deep roots though.
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That mean that the plant must grow submerged in this period? as a U. biloba?
Thanks in advance
No. I think it means stand the pot in 1-2" of water, like most other CPs.
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I am thrilled to discover I have germinated one plant of D. derbyensis from seed in my petiolaris tank. Phew. My first petiolaris from seed (why won't D. falconeri work for me??) It's given me courage to try some more of this group from seed now.
Anyway, my lone plant will eventually want repotting and centering in the pot. My query is what kind of soil it likes. Or if the plain 2/1 peat/sand mix is ok. I have read that D. ordensis likes almost pure sand (though mine is in this "normal" drosera mix and doing fine), and D. derbyensis is similar in some respects.
Also, does it have the extensive root system of D. ordensis (mine is in a 3" pot but the roots are trailing out of the bottom for a few coiled inches)?
Thanks.
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Hi,
I have been growing two clones of N. clipeata for a year or more now. I have clones "2" and "U". My clone "U" is far more vigorous than "2" in the same conditions. I will post pics soon, but I wondered if anyone has made any other comparative observations concerning the handful of clones being propagated by Wistuba?
Cheers.
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I use one of these on my "hot bright" tank (2' x 1' x 1'). Petiolaris dews are raised up near the light and do very well. Light-loving neps are 10-12" below and also like it.
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Nice. Could you tell us what clone of U. clipeata you are growing? Wistuba do 3 I think. Thanks!
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Rob, can you explain further - "Strongly acidic soils are conducive to heavy anthocyanin production. Tannin?"
Im just looking at light/pigment relations at college.
What Aiden said :-D
Reagrding tannin reminds me of tea... I have experimented on a spare "dark" S. purpurea the last year actually. One division went into a weakly acid bog garden, the other into a peat mix and applied a weak infusion of common-or-garden stewed tea every so often. The latter is much redder, verging on purple-black. I don't advocate pouring tea over all CPs, but I have also used it effectively for the short-term control of algae in an indoor culture of U. gibba. I forget if the forum thread about that was on the old forum a number of years back, or whether you might find it here with the search thing...
Bear in mind that tannin (in tea) is not tannic acid though.
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It also depends on the acidity of the soil I have found. Strongly acidic soils are conducive to heavy anthocyanin production. Tannin?
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I grow D. graminifolia in my cold greenhouse. Min in winter of 1-2C, along with sarracenia et al. It does fine. Really likes being potted in live sphagnum moss and keeping moist over winter. No dormancy has ever been indicated by the plant to me in the last 2 years I have been growing it. It gets bright filtered light in summer and all the UK winter sun we can muster. It grows reasonably fast but still hasn't flowered for me. The leaves are around 8" long. When I first got my plant I overwintered it at 10-12C, but it didn't thrive. It seems much happier with the cold treatment it now gets.
Hope that may be of some help.
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From the pic, there is not enough light in the terrarium. The ceph is rather green (though it won't mind this too much) and the D. paradoxa won't thrive unless it gets rather more light.
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I am awaiting delivery... :-)
It won't grow in poor light - or at least wouldn't for me. Mine failed in a typical intermediate/lowland tank very quickly. My next is going into the same tank as petiolaris drosera, a little further from the lights. It doesn't grow all that high up (600m?), and grows in exposed places, so am thinking of sunbaked rocks on the equator with a few sea breezes. I am still unsure about substrate. I will try a mix of about half seramis with half a mixture of sphagnum moss, coarse sand and peat. Not overly soggy. I think some air movement may also be appreciated. But these are just hunches and I have not yet managed to successfully cultivate it.
By the way, I also have seeds of it to try out and will sow them in a few weeks. Will report back if I get germination...
Utricularia longifolia growing advice?
in Utricularia
Posted
I'd give it someting more open to grow in (peat gets awfully stagnant when you sit te plants in water - doesn't bother a lot of bog plants, but this seems to prefer a little fresher at the root). Around half peat and perlite perhaps, or pure live sphagnum moss.