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  • Location
    Oklahoma, USA
  • Interests
    CPs (duh)

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  1. We get summer temps in the 100s and winter temps in the 20s. I have plenty of room in my back yard to put a greenhouse that would get full sun most of the day in all 4 seasons. The problem is where I live it gets in the 100s in the summer and in the 20s or less in the winter. Spring and fall the temps are mild and it's usually humid and rainy. I'm not so concerned about keeping temperates in the greenhouse during the winter but I am concerned about keeping ANYTHING in it during the summer. How would one keep the temperatures low enough to NOT fry everything inside the greenhouse? I know they c
  2. Those are by far the best photos of D. graomogolensis I have ever seen. Very nice looking plants!
  3. C'mon now dont be shy I know there are tuberous drosera growers who frequent this forum....surely one of you can share some knowledge....
  4. I realize I need to provide tuberous seeds with a hot stratification but I also know that that alone is not enough to get all species of tuberous Drosera to germinate. I was wondering if anyone (or everyone) could tell me what each of the below species need to germinate. For instance, does one need GA3, Smoke Treatment, Scarification, (etc) before hot stratification? D. erythrorhiza magna D. stolonifera D. peltata D. auriculata D. gigantea I have some seeds of all the above species and am going to give them a go this year. So, I need as much info as possible. And one more question: How
  5. wilnadon

    Wacky traps

    I don't see any reason why Bob should kill the plant just because it doesn't effectively kill and digest bugs, or because it's ugly. If ugly is criteria for death, I'd be dead. I'm also very interested in seeing how selfed seeds would turn out, or maybe crossed with red dragon? Good luck Bob!
  6. wilnadon

    how open...

    Go to the Carnivorous Plant Photo Finder (link provided below). Check out pictures of Dionaea. Compare what you see on your plants with what you see in the pictures. I will also input that some traps on the same plant may open wider than others, but all are still completely opened. As far as the 180 degree angle idea....I dont know about that. More like both are at at 45 degree angles opposite of eachother, but again that is variable 'cause as stated above not all traps open exactly alike. http://www.humboldt.edu/~rrz7001/
  7. Anyone know if it's even possible to special order these companion bugs for Roridula? I know there are issues of eco-balance importing non-native bugs into the USA but I'm sure they wouldn't survive the winters here in Oklahoma anyways. :-) I've noticed on two different websites that home-growers of roridula have somehow obtained and maintained colonies of these bugs on their plants, one of which was indoors in the mans house!! If they can get them, can I living in the states? and where?
  8. PinguiculaMan, Very cool looking plants. Sorry I don't know the ID but if you ever need to free up some space you know where you can send an extra one. :)
  9. I did the same thing with mine though involuntarily as the plant became too tall and fell over on it's own. Since then the plant has sent up two new plants from the root system with the main stem still in tact and scrambling along the bottom of the terrarium just fine. I've always read this plant doesn't require a dormancy but will survive just fine through one. Mine hasn't gone dormant yet but I've only been growing it for a year.
  10. Now that we're on the subject, my Drosera capensis 'Albino' or 'alba' (white flower) has pink-tipped tentacles in long exposures to strong artificial light.
  11. Your English is okay. One thing I might add about D. cistiflora is the plant seems to be a perennial until it flowers. Peter D'Amoto reports in his book that his plants always die after flowering. I don't think his is always true but worth considering and planning for nontheless. Mine hasn't flowered yet so I don't know.... Time will tell. D. gigantea lives for many years. It grows during the wet, rainy, cool winter seasons in the wild. During the dry, hot, summer conditions the plant dies back to an underground tuber, where it will remain until the next cool winter growing season. These plan
  12. I have limited experience with both but I do know they are both winter growers that don't like lots of heat. D. gigantea doesn't really tolerate temperatures above 78 degrees F give or take a few. Everybody's experiences are different and there will likely be folks who reply just to tell me I'm wrong but the general idea is, don't let them get hot. They both enjoy cooler temperatures than tropical and subtropical Drosera. The trick to lighting is letting them get good sunlight without getting hot.
  13. I've just sown a bunch of D. macrantha seeds and placed the pot in my warm terrarium to sit for about a month before I expose it to cooler temperatures. I've read in the past that my D. stolonifera ssp. stolonifera seeds need to be pretreated because their coats are extremely hard. Any recommendations on how to do this? If boiling water is an option (as the ICPS website briefly speaks of), then what is the best way to go about it? If GA3, then what is the best concentration in around-the-house terms? I am a little leary of using sand paper so I'd like to avoid it if possible. Thanks for any
  14. I'm starting to come to the conclusion that everybody is refering to different clones, because I've personally spoken to Peter D'Amoto (after I read in his book) and he says that his attempts to self D. regia have failed numerous times. And now you are saying that it has great success. I have the 'Big Easy' clone from PinguiculaMan. It's still fairly small and hasn't flowered yet. Perhaps when it does I will try to self it and see if that is indeed the clone that is producing seed.