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Everything posted by CatEye

  1. Some already went dormant, others will soon. Some subtropicals will also be moved to my basement soon. Sarracenia, Dionaea, Drosera, Utricularia, Stylidium
  2. Hello. I got this plant as tracyi 'giant'. I have however doubts that it is a tracyi. I think it is a filiformis or a hybrid with that species. I have been growing the normal filiformis for over a decade now. That plant is half the size of the one in question, but the height of filiformis does vary depending from which population it originates. The reason why I have doubts about my supposed tracyi being an actual tracyi is that it's testicles are red. Not as red as the filiformis, but they have a more intense color than the pictures online, where the close ups are just slightly pinkish and give the plant a white appearance overall. I do like this plant, since it a very nice size, but I do want to get the real deal, in case this isn't it. Here are some pictures. The plant is just starting to enter dormancy, but most of the leaves still have dew on them. Drosera filiformis is on the last picture. Only one leaf is left with dew, the plants are entering dormancy.
  3. Anyways, Swamp Garden is indeed the first and only carnivorous plants shop in Slovenia. I know Petra for years and have visited her recently. She has a good selection of plants and I recommend her.
  4. They grow like ultricularia, but slower and they appreciate if the water they stand in is every now and then changed. Ultricularia don't care, but genlisea are somewhat more picky regarding this. Also from the scarce info online some species are notoriously slow growers.
  5. I bought plants from here years ago. Was satisfied with them, since David has a big sellection and offers good prices. I do wonder though, is carnivoria.eu still open? The shop has given me an error message and I didn't see any recent update from it in a while
  6. I buyed this Genlisea two years ago. It was labelled as Genlisea violecea "giant". I kind of doubt that it's a Genlisea flexuosa. So can anyone help me ID it?
  7. This is my favorite utricularia. It's as easy to grow as U. livida or sandersonii, the only difference is that you have to keep it warm all year. It flowers every winter in my terrarium.
  8. CatEye

    growing point

    The substrate is too wet. Either water the plants less or transplant them into a taller pot.
  9. I have all of these at home. With the exception of D. madagascariensis and D. adelae everything survives the winter in my basement on a windowsill. There it is 3 - 5 C in the winter. They all keep their leafes, but stop growing.The binatas react different to this. Most form a hibernacula, D. "extrema" however dies down to the roots and starts growing from the soil in the spring. As long as the temperature isn't bellow 0, your plants should be fine. D. madagascariensis and D. adelae hate cold and I grow them in my terrarium.
  10. I am growing it now D. filiformis var. filiformis for 3 years. The first year I lost more than half of the plants and I grew them in a mix of peat and perlite. So next year I decided to put half of the survivors in a pot with life sphagnum and D. rotundifolia. The plants there grew really fast and were more than twice as tall as the ones from the peat/perlite mix. I have fund out that in live sphagnum D. filiformis has no problems with being wet and I didn't loose one plant since I put them in there. The hibernacula are completely covered in the sphagnum and that protects them in the winter. I think that a lot of them rot because the wind in the winters causes dehydration. If there is any snow I always put as much as I can on the pots. That's the best isolation for hibernacula in my opinion. Last year all my plants survived in both peat and sphagnum and it was very cold (-20 Celsius). The first year when I lost half of my D. filiformis plants to rot I also lost a few D. rotundifolia and that year I didn't cover them with snow. The strong winds in winter dried the sphagnum out in one day and I suspect that made them prone to rot. I have also found out that the hibernacula in the sphagnum are about 50% bigger than he ones in the peat. Also D. intermedia is also bigger in sphagnum than in peat, but surprisingly survives the winter better in peat than in sphagnum, because in sphagnum it forms a stem and the hibernacula often dries up in winter. I don't mind that, because D. interemdia is a real weed in my collection. It is the only sundew that survives winter in my country and isn't picky at all when it comes where it grows. I have no experience with D. trayci. It wouldn't survive the winter in my country, so I would have to put it in my basement during winter and molds would be a huge problem probably. So my advice is that you experiment a little, put plants in different substrates, because probably not everything works in different climates.
  11. I think this is a form of Utricularia bisquamata. One form has small, almost white flowers. It self polliantes and becomes a weed, so keep it away from other utricularia.
  12. I am growing my plants in terrarium since February. I have 2 "day" and 2 "nature" lights. The plants look excelent, escpecaily Utricularia. This is the first time Utricularia praelonga blooms for me.
  13. My plant started to flower. It has about 10 flower stalks. Many people say that this plant flowers only if it is exposed to low winter temperatures. Well I was growing it on my windowsill (20°C during winter). A month ago I moved it to my terrarium and after a week I noticed the first flower stalk. Also I am growing this plant now for about a year. Here is a picture of the first flower: free picture hosting
  14. Well... I had a bad experience with a nature light in my aquarium. When I used it all the fast growing, tall plants died.... On the other side java moss and anubias plants grew well....
  15. How about a combination of 3 day lights and 1 nature. Narva nature:
  16. Hello. I am going to set up a terrarium for growing carnivorous plants. I have an aquarium ( 100 cm long[39.3 inches] x 40 cm[15.7 inches] wide x 50cm[19.6 inches] high. It's volume is 200 liters [52.8 gallons]. I plan to use 2 x 24 W T5 and 2 x 39 W T5 lights. Also i will add reflectors to the light.... The lights I want to buy are Narva lights. They have 6000K and I am going to grow the following plants in the terrarium: Drosera alicae Drosera adelae Drosera burmannii Drosera binata (only young plants) Drosera capensis "typical" Drosera capensis"alba" Drosera pygmea Drosera oblanceolata Drosera pulchella x nitidula Drosera scorpiodes Drosera spatulata Drosera spatulata 'Frasier Island' Nepenthes x ventrata (young plants) Pinguicula emarginata Utricularia bisquamata 'Betty's Bay' Utricularia longifolia Utricularia livida Utricularia dichotoma Utricularia praelonga Utricularia parthenopipes Utricularia subulata Utricularia sandersonii Stylidium debile and a few non-carnivorous plants Each plant is going to be in it's own pot!
  17. I use a mix od perlite, vermiculate, sand and peat. For P. gypsicola and hybrids of this speicies I also add some gypsium...
  18. On the ICPS it says that fungicides mean death to Pinguicula. Also the mold is there probably because the soil is fresh. In my experience this mold appears the first month on peat and then disappears....
  19. I propagaded several Pinguicula from summer leaves: Pinguicula ‘APHRODITA’(P. agnatha x moctezumae) Pinguicula ‘WESER’ Pinguicula agnata Pinguicula agnata x gypsicola Pinguicula gracilis x moctezumae Pinguicula gypsicola Pinguicula gypsicola x moctezumae Only one didn't succeed, it was either P. gypsicola or a hybrid with it.... I know that several Pinguicula won't survive if they don't have a dry dormancy, but they still have carnivorous leaves. Here are pictures of my Pinguicula: Pinguicula ‘APHRODITA’ Pinguicula agnata Pinguicula agnata x gypsicola ? Pinguicula gypsicola or Pinguicula gypsicola x moctezumae Pinguicula gracilis x moctezumae ? Should I give them a dry dormancy? ....
  20. My plants have flower stalks that are purple in summer and green ones in winter. Here is a picture of a subulata that has green flowers stalks: http://users.humboldt.edu/rziemer/zphotos/U_subulata301.JPG Also occasionally my subulata makes small whitish flowers that don't open fully and fall off shortly after they are produced. These are much smaller than the typical yellow flowers and if you don't look carefully you don't even notice them....
  21. Yes ... 3 bladderworts are common hitchhikers. U. subulata, U bisquamata and U. laterifolia. If you want to grow it, transplant it into it's own pot. (away from other bladderworts). If it will like the new conditions it will offten flower and have bigger yellow flowers. If the conditions aren't optimal it will prouce only cleistogamous flower (the ones you have now). They grow well on windowsills, like most Utricularia. If you keep them away from ther carnivorous plants there will be no problems....
  22. It's the very rare Utricularia subulata
  23. I hope the plantlet next to it will survive. That one has half of the leaf white and half of the leaf green. Also how is it possible to get these plants from leaf cuttings.... Shouldn't they be the same as the plant from which I got the leaf...
  24. It wasn't under a leaf. And every other plantlet has normall coloration.... The plantlet next to it has the base of each leaf white and the rest is normally green. The biggest P. agnata plantlet is green. So it seems to be a mutation....
  25. Hello,a month ago I got leaf cuttings from several mexican butterworts. One of them was from Pinguicula agnata. The weird thing is that one of the plantlets is completely white.... Also I got summer leaves from these species: Pinguicula ‘APHRODITA’ (P. agnatha x moctezumae) Pinguicula ‘WESER’ Pinguicula agnata Pinguicula agnata x gypsicola Pinguicula gracilis x moctezumae Pinguicula gypsicola Pinguicula gypsicola x moctezumae And only one didn't produce plants...
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