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ice00 last won the day on January 6 2017

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  • Birthday 04/21/1973

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  1. ice00


  2. Hi, I just print a cut-size version of the pot for only one plant species for testing the equipment. Else, instead of my mixed mineral compost, I go to use a special fine quartz. It has a very capillarity action on water, so all the compost will be uniformly watering. I have also not covered the empty space with perlite, but let only water being in.
  3. ice00

    Pinguicula experiment

  4. It could be convenient if the plastic come from a press stamp. With 3D printing a pod with big dimension (like 270 x 310 x 80 mm) uses aroud 7€ of plastic filament (this is an extimated by the program) and arount 15 to 20h to finish. The photos were taken just when I insert them into the pod, maybe I can make new photo tomorrow after around 8 months of usage. I never used fertilization in Pinguicula, they just catch all insects.
  5. hi, no actually the species that remain are around 40/45 in very few pods. But as the experiments is going very good, I planned to port all to this system, so I can grow them with just give attention to them 1 day a week in Summer and 1 day a month in Winter. I will have a 3D printer with a larger X/Y plane so I can create the custom pod with good space even for bigger pinguicula and maybe create pod more little for little pinguicula specie. At thi point I can put the pods into a bookcase with shelves and utilize space in height, so I can still go to cultivate 100 species in the same x/y space as before when I used the common pods. .
  6. The experiment goes very well. In winter no problem (essentially very few water every month). Now, water every week (a glass of water). Actually I uses 6 box (6*4=24 species) and other 2 box is in the making. However I go ahed and for reduce the manual time of building them, I will go to use 3D plastic printing. I think they will be ready for September.
  7. ice00


  8. Here the first box that is ready. It contains plants and minerals: Pinguicule esseriana / Quarzo Morione (Arkansas, USA) Pinguicula spec. Tonala / Cobaltocalcite rosa (Zaire) Pinguicula colimensis x gigantea White Flower / Piromorfite (Hunan, Cina) Pingucula x Weser / Vanadinite rossa (Mibladen, Marocco)
  9. hi all, after growing about 100 different species of Mexical Pinguicula in last 4 years in more that 200 pots, I had comes to the problems of water killing most of them during the last two years (one year was with rain from May to July with low temperature, while the other was without a single rain from May to July with big temperatures). The plants were cultivated in standard mineral mix with a flowerpot saucer with little water putted every day in it. The problem is that with irregular flowerpot saucer surface, some pots get more water then others and else when I'm on holiday I can't know how many water a people gives to them for supply my absence. When you have very few plants you can gives them many minutes in a day to figure their state, but with many you can gives only few seconds a day, so you cannot follow them as needed and the result is many plants that died. I so try to think at alternative methods of cultivation when you had not to worry about water level given to them. They have to get what they need. One alternative was the "Pinguiculario" when plant have water not directly at contact with topsoild as it is inside a vessel. You put the water in the vessel (50% of it) and forget the plants for months. The disadvantage is the space needed to cultivate many species with it. Another methods that I experimented this summer is the inclined plate of volcanic Tufo. The plated is immersed into big quantity of water (about 10 liters) but the plant get only the little quantity that from "capillarity" the Tufo present into it. I put the plants for test in it and then fill to the brim of water every weeks. No problem to the plants. The problem with this is the weight of the stuff and the fact that I cannot have too many plants of it as I have to made some holes to put the plants in (if you create many holes the plate breaks. So, now I have elaborated a solution that is a mix of all the previous staff that I hope it can get me freedom in don't' worry about water any-more and have many plant cultivated in a very good looking package. This is a render of the new pot to build. It has 4 spaces for cultivate 4 different species ion the same time. The material is transparent plexiglass stucks with silicon. So, after building the external box, the bottom is filled by 1,5/2cm of Perlite and over it there is a plate of Tufo of 1,5/2cm that is siliconised to the sides, so no water can goes from below to upper part without passing inside the Tufo. At the center there is then apply an hole for let water to pass from upper part to lower part. a rhombus structure in the center become a funnel for inserting the water in the lower part. Then 4 peaces are siliconised for dividing the 4 part of Pinguicula coltivations. Over the Tufo, it will be put 1cm of standard mineral mix of cultivation and above a little (2mm) layer of quartz in granules to gives a better view of all the stuff. Each pot will measure 28,4x20cm ans I will use 2mm policarbonated plate and with 1250x500 sheets I will get 4 pots, so 16 Pingucula. Don't know if this methods will works but I'm feeling positive about it and I hope to have the first prototype assembled in two weeks.
  10. Lapillo (maybe lapilli in english translating word) is a vulcanic material similar to pomice. I use the initial mineral mix (the marked as old), but during the last summer I see that it becomes too compacted. So I switch to have: pomice in the bottom of pot (with big particle size) and then lapillo in upper of pot (with little particle size). Vermiculite and perlite is just less of 5%. But actually I switch again to have only lapillo (big particle size in bottom of pot, normal particle size in middle and little particle size in upper part) as lapillo was more easy to buy in big quantity. Vermiculite and perlite is still less of 5% even in this mix. In Italy many growers use only lapillo for Pinguicula. This winter I start to propagate 50% of Pinguicula, but with the wrong winter we have, I lose many of the little plants and actually only 5% is still in growing phase. I have to start again to make leaf cutting...
  11. This is the actual Pinguicula plants (just make photos with the flash):
  12. Thanks for the mistakes found, I will fix them as soon as possible. All plants are coltivated in those three mix: old mix: river sand, vermiculite, perlite, quartz gravel, bark middle mix: pomice, perlite, vermiculite, lapillo new mix: lapillo, vermiculite, perlite In winter plants will receive light from a sud windows, but they have good winter light only from 8:00 to 13:00. From 14:00 to 24:00 they receive a soffuse light that comes from 100W Nepenthes terrarium that are at about 1m in distance. Unfortunately this winter in Italy was very strange (there are people that lost many Sarracenia, Dioanea and Pinguicula for this) as it was relatively very hot for the periods from December to March after a months very cold and then in April temperatures drop down (actually I have some cyclosecta that are in winter rosetta even in this periods!), so the plant stay in home until May, otherwise min temperature in April was under 3° with max temperature near 14°.
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