Full Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About Cedric-666

  • Birthday 10/24/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Carnivorous plants (Sarracenia, Drosera, Dionaea), Nature, invertebrate zoology (professional taxonomist), SCUBA diving, dark metal music

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Contact Mike King. I got that plant from him 5 or 6 years ago.
  2. Contact Mike King. I got that plant from him 5 or 6 years ago.
  3. It is true that the wind is a problem when growing tall sarras outdoors. I use grids to support them.
  4. Some Sarracenia seems to be sterile for one sex. For example, I never had any production of pollen for S. x Crimson Queen (but the same plant is very good at receiving pollen; it often produces many seeds with vigorous seedlings). For F88, I have not searched for pollen so far, but last year it accepted the pollen of Adrian Slack (not much seeds produced but they are currently germinating). There are also plants with reduced fertility (in my culture conditions) and the amount of pollen produced is very variable from one clone to the other.. I had the greatest difficulties at obtainin
  5. I grow all my sarras outside in Belgium (i.e. summers slightly warmer than in southern England). The growth period is shorter than in greenhouse; some plants (but not all) are less coloured, and some are slightly smaller. The second crop of pitchers of the leucos usually develops too late and is short-living with poor colours. Otherwise, they grow very well on my terrasse. When you grow your plants outside you almost never get botrytis problems. When the weather get cold, you just have to mulch them properly. I think that the true limiting factor is not the low winter temperatures but the low
  6. I am not happy with cotton buds because the pollen stick too much on them and a lot of it is wasted. I use very small short-haired painter brushes. If I have to pollinate different plants (this occurs most of the time), I put them in boiling water for a few seconds between each operation to sterilize them. By the way, I think that it is important to repeat the pollinisation several time to increase the probability of success and maximize the number of seeds.
  7. When you make crossings, you need to have as many seeds (and seedlings) as possible. When they are large enough, you have to make a drastic selection. Usually you get a low proportion of interesting plants, even if you use exceptional clones as parents. And yes, sometimes you need time before being able to judge the quality of the plants.
  8. I am using fertilizers on seedlings. In September I put them inside in a terrarium and set 3 granulates of rhododendron fertiliser in each pot. After 3 months I put again 1 or 2 more granulates. When the seedlings get large enough, I put dilute liquid orchid fertilizer in their pitchers with a syringe. The result is very obvious and sometimes spectacular, but there are considerable differences between crossings and individual seedlings. I have never used fertilizer on adult plants, but I have indeed read that Maxsea in the pitchers can yield impressive results. I don't know if Maxsea is avail
  9. Meizwang said "Okay, now for the curve ball! In the examples of F2 crosses, I claimed that when you self adrian slack, the resulting seeds are S. x Adrian Slack F2. This is true if and only if the original Adrian Slack clone was the result of crossing 2 genetically different clones (ie. if Adrian Slack was verified to be the result of S. flava var. rugelii x leucophylla, for example). Since the plant came from the wild, there's no knowing if Adrian Slack is an F1, F2, F3, F4,etc. We have no way to prove if Adrian Slack was the result of flava x leucophylla, or a moorei x moorei, or a (leucophy
  10. Crosses with Adrian Slack are usually great. I suggest you to cross your Adrian slack with : - F28 S. flava var. ornata, Solid red throat with diffused veins around neck, Apalachicola National Forest, FL W,(PW), MK F88 - your reddest S. flava atropurpurea - L16 S. leucophylla, `Burgundy’. Red & White, Phil Sheridan, MK L57 - L19 S. leucophylla, Helmut's Delight, Cedric SL04 - A5 S. alata, Black tube, stocky, pubescent De Soto National Forest Clone 3, MK A28 One warning however: when selfing Adrian Slack I got a very low rate of germination and all seedlings except one were very
  11. These past two years, I left my Crimson Queen makes its flowers: one flower in 2013, four in 2014. It did not affect the growth of the plant. This cultivar proved to be extremely vigorous in my growing conditions (outside in the center of Belgium).
  12. Epistasis is probably also an important factor.
  13. I grow my seedlings an open terrarium, indeed with lights very close to the plants. I also use a very little bit of fertilizers: granulates for rhododendrons in very small amounts and foliar application of a very dilute liquid orchid fertilizer. When the seedlings get larger I also sometimes put dilute orchid fertilizer in the pitchers with a syringue.
  14. Or just grow them outside. In my garden I get from time to time one scale bug on my sarras, but so few that it is not even a minor problem. I guess that they are largely eaten by other insects.
  15. Very hard to say. I would not be surprised if it has some leuco in its parentage, but I am not sure. The colour of the petals could indeed be indicative. What is the shape of the phyllodiae? In my oreo x flava 'Carnilandia red' and in my leuco x oreo 'Crimson queen', the phyllodiae are more or less falciform (reminiscent of oreophila). Also, in these two hybrids (as in oreophila), the flowers persist for a longer time than in flava and in leuco. You should check these characters.