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AdamH

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Posts posted by AdamH

  1. Hi,

    Thanks for all the comments, and advice. Maybe I'll transplant them to a mix of equal parts peat, sand, perlite and sphagnum - should be airy and well-drained yet moisture retentive. A good idea? I wonder why they apparently don't do well as seedlings in saturated sphagnum, when the adults grow fine in this? Also, in nature they are "aquatic epiphytes" in bromeliads, so I would have thought they would prefer a saturated sphagnum-type mix? Obviously conditions are different in the wild though, many factors may come into play.

    Anyway, thanks again for all the info. :wink:

  2. OK, thought I'd take a few shots of my germinating Utricularia nelumbifolia seedlings:

    U-nelumbifolia-1.jpg

    U-nelumbifolia-2.jpg

    U-nelumbifolia-3.jpg

    I received these fom Stephen Morley (aka "gardenofeden" - many thanks!) yesterday, and sowed them on flooded milled sphagnum in a clear plastic "lunch box" style container, around 4pm. These photos were taken today around 4pm, 24 hours later! I actually noticed the seeds swelling within minutes of being sown, and the first signs of germination were evident within an hour of sowing! But the seedlings are much more distinct 24 hours later, each one looking like a tiny green octpopus!

    These seeds are simply amazing - more fun even than Drosera gemmae. :roll:

  3. Thanks for the comments! :D

    Zongyi, yup as Bob said, that plant's U.nelumbifolia, trying to make a quick escape from its "compound"! :lol:

    Anyway, I'm becoming much more interested in the wonderful Utrics these days - they are even rivalling Drosera for the coveted position of my "favourite CP genus"! :shock: I'm gradually increasing my collection - will post my growlist later, so any swaps etc...

    Cheers...

  4. Hi Rob, Sean,

    Thanks for the info. I'm thinking of starting with growing plant material. However, it might be worth trying seed: I would guess that as the seed of these species presumably has to lay dormant during a dry season, that they remain viable for longer than other species of Utricularia. Anyway, thanks again for the links etc. I'm still not decided whether to try these yet...

  5. Hi,

    I'm thinking of attempting these species. I understand that they would likely need warm to hot temps, along the lines of the Drosera petiolaris-complex species, but what other conditions? Water levels, light levels, humidity, etc? Does U.fulva grow as a perennial in cultivation (indeed is U.leptolectra a true perennial) ? Any info / advice is much appreciated! :lol:

  6. Hi,

    Just thought I'd post a few photos I took today. They aren't the best quality, I was in a hurry!

    Anyway, here's a corner of my Utricularia "Grow Space":

    Utric-Grow-Area.jpg

    This is a U.sandersonii with 3 "bunny ears"! (Growing indoors on the windowsill):

    U-sandersonii-3ears.jpg

    The U.dichotoma plants always look great this time of year:

    U-dichotoma.jpg

    Finally, a few photos of U.pubescens - this species is quite "shy" to flower:

    The green "buttons":

    U-pubescens-lvs.jpg

    Four views of the same single flower:

    U-pubescens-1.jpg

    U-pubescens-2.jpg

    U-pubescens-3.jpg

    U-pubescens-4.jpg

    Hope you enjoy! :D

  7. Yes, Rob, I'd love to see a photo too (when the flowers are out): this is a species I'd love to get hold of some day (when I find a supplier!). :wink:

    P.S. Rob, your seeds will be ready v.soon now (in the next week or two) - I'll email / PM you then... cheers.

  8. Wow, that is amazing news Fernando! It would be interesting to see if it does produce gemmae at all, perhaps under extreme conditions as a "last ditch" survival mechanism as you say may happen! Anyway, thanks for intoducing such a fascinating and wonderful species into cultivation. I'm glad that D.meristocaulis was refound at last!

    As an aside, does anyone know if seed of this species is still available from any source? And if so, where?! I'd love to have a go at cultivation! :D

  9. Hi,

    Thanks for all the kind comments! :D

    Hen, I don't have any spares of the D.binata NZ 'Alpine Form' yet, but should (hopefully) have some seedlings and established leaf / root cuttings by the autumn - I'll try to remember and let you know (if I forget, ask around Sept / Oct).

    Also, I'll re-label the "D.coccicaulis" as D.venusta - thanks for the info.

    Cheers...

  10. Hi,

    OK, for my first post on the forum in 6 months (I've been busy! :P ), here are a few recent Drosera flower photos:

    D. leucoblasta 'Brookton Form' - this was about 3 weeks ago:

    Drosera-leucoblasta-Brookton-1.jpg

    D. coccicaulis (invalid name I think - what is it ?) - 3 days ago:

    D-coccicaulis-1.jpg

    D-coccicaulis-2.jpg

    D-coccicaulis-3.jpg

    D-coccicaulis-4.jpg

    And finally, a whole plant this time (no flowers) of:

    D. binata - New Zealand 'Alpine Form':

    D-binata-NZ-Alpine-1.jpg

    I hope you like them. :D

  11. WOW! :shock::oops:

    Those are some amazing photos of an amazing Drosera species! I love the tall stems clothed in previous years' leaves (just how old are those plants ?), the long silvery stipules and Drosera scorpioides-like leaves, making this species a bit reminiscent of a pygmy sundew, and even the flowers are nice. Do some of the plants have branching stems (i.e. "multi-head") ? I can't quite make out from the first photo. Also, is this the species that Fernando had been searching for for years (if I remember from previous CPN articles and CP Listserver postings) ? Please congratulate him for us on the rediscovery of this species in habitat, and thank him for these wonderful photos! I hope someone introduces Drosera meristocaulis into cultivation in the near future. Many thanks Bob for updating the forum with this information + pics.

  12. Hi Sean,

    Thanks for the extra info. I'll just have to wait until they are fully mature to determine their ID 100% (well, as near as possible), but after this discussion, I'm currently 90% certain that they are D. macrantha ssp planchonii - partly because I generally trust the source (Chiltern Seeds), and partly because of the ease of culture (I generally find that species from South-East Australia are slightly easier for us Europeans to grow than those from Western Australia).

    Oh, and thanks for the kind comments Odysseus! These really are nice, fascinating Sundews - highly recommended!

    Thanks again for everyone's contibutions to this thread - much appreciated! :D

  13. Thanks Langy. And good luck with your Drosera stolonifera ssp compacta seeds - I hope they germinate for you this year! (Only 2 years though - don't give up on the pot for at least another year or two!! Some of these tuberous species need excessive patience! :lol: ).

    I'll post some further pics of my D.macrantha ssp planchonii plants when they have reached their full size for this growing season.

  14. Hi Sean,

    Thanks for the extra info. Much appreciated.

    Is there any difference in the structure of seeds between the different subspecies of Drosera macrantha? I remember that the ones I sowed were a very unusual "contorted" shape, very strange! Unfortunately I didn't have a digital camera (or any camera!) at the time, otherwise I would have taken a macro shot prior to sowing (may be worth doing that in future).

  15. Hi Jan + Vic,

    Thanks for the info! If you're right Jan about the 3 years to flowering, then indeed they may be flowering size this year possibly. I had assumed for some reason that it would take around 5 years to flowering (possibly because they were so small last year!), consequently they are still in smallish (10cm [4"]) pots (3 or 4 tubers per pot), so I hope they don't reform tubers too low - definately individual larger pots this summer!

    Thanks for the photos and ID confirmation Vic - I was 90% certain that they were D. macrantha ssp planchonii (as opposed to D. macrantha ssp macrantha or any other macrantha subspecies / variant), but I guess I'll know for certain when they are full sized and flowering! I originally purchased the seeds (as "Drosera planchonii") from Chiltern Seeds in 2002, so unfortunately don't have location data for them, but I'm still quite confident of their id. (I must say that I've had very good results from Chiltern's CP seeds to date). I've also been very pleasantly suprised at how easy they have been to grow from seed, the easiest tuberous Drosera species yet for me - since germination, I've had 100% survival rate so far! (Cue a sudden plague of snails, slugs and fungi... ! :shock: ).

    Anyway, I've just discovered another pot of D. macrantha ssp planchonii that I had forgotten about containing 4 strongly-growing plants, bringing my total to 13 plants. Hopefully this will provide a viable "breeding population" - maybe some experimental hybridization of tuberous sundews is in order!

    Thanks again for the replies.

  16. Hi,

    In Autumn 2002 I sowed some Drosera macrantha ssp planchonii seeds (from Chiltern Seeds), they subsequently germinated with tiny (5mm) rosettes, then successfully went dormant. They re-appeared last autumn (2003) with small (1 to 2cm) rosettes, and again went dormant. This year (autumn 2004) they have re-appeared for their 3rd growing season in their upright / climbing form. The following photos show a single pot of 3 plants (I have 9 in total), about 6cm high at present - I don't know how tall they will get this year:

    D-macrantha-planchonii-1.jpg

    D-macrantha-planchonii-2.jpg

    (The unlucky Lacewing was rescued later - I know, why am I growing CPs??!! :shock: ).

    Anyway, my main questions are:

    1. Is this the true D. macrantha ssp planchonii ? (not sure if the photos show enough details to determine the likelihood of ID yet)

    2. How long does this species take to reach flowering size from seed on average in reasonable growing conditions? Is my guesstimate of 5 years about right? If so, only 2 more years... !

    Many thanks for any advice...

    P.S. Vic, how are yours doing?

  17. I would also add Drosera binata (most forms, but perhaps excluding the D.binata var multifida variants) as being hardy, at least in the southern half of UK. My D.binata var dichotoma 'Giant Type' has survived being frozen solid down to at least -8C, probably lower. The same for D.aliciae and D.capensis.

    These will usually die above ground back to their roots, but will sprout again in mid spring.

    As always though, with these I would recommend that you always keep a spare plant or two just frost free under cover, to protect against loss from the possibility of an exceptionally cold winter.

  18. Wow Fred - just noticed you set up an Aroid forum: excellent, I'm off to register (using same forum name of droseraholic, for consistancy! :D ).

    Anyway, back on topic - go for it Tim, try the nectar: if you survive, you can post the results back to this thread (including any "special effects"), if not ah well at least we will know to avoid that one in future! :D:D:P (just joking :D ). Nice plant in your photo by the way.

  19. A slightly late reply to this thread!

    My Dionaea muscipula 'Akai Ryu' ("Red Dragon") plant that I purchased from Mike King at his 2003 Open Day is now in bud, and has a double "split" scape (i.e. a single scape splitting into two), just like yours Bob. I'm letting it flower this year, as I'm hoping to cross it with the "South West Giant" clone (unofficial cultivar - aka "Slack's Giant" ???) to get some seed (most of which will probably result in "typical" VFTs, but you never know... :P ). Sorry no photo - I hope to have a digital camera soon!

    Anyway, it looks to me as if this feature, if consistent, could be one of Akai Ryu's cultivar determining characteristics. Mike (King): have your plants flowered this year, and if so do they have these double scapes? Just out of curiosity.... ! :D

  20. I think they should eventually start going dormant on their own - mine (I sowed them last autumn) have just started doing so. Apparently D.cistiflora doesn't like to be kept completely "bone dry" during dormancy, so I have now placed the pots onto a tray of damp sand (I guess you could use some slightly damp capilliary matting for the same effect), with the bottom 2cm of the pot plunged into the sand - this should keep the soil in the bottom half of the pot just very slightly damp, while the top half dries out. Don't know if this will work yet, as these are my first seedlings of this species - I'll let you know when (if!) they break dormancy in the autumn / winter! Just a thought though if yours start going dormant. Maybe someone else with more experience of this species can give further advice / tips etc.

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